2018+ GT Performance Package Level 1 Worth $4k?

[Clump]

It was worth to me. I wanted to buy off the lot and only really looked at PP1 cars. I like the wheels, the brake upgrade is great, very satisfied with the handling. The Michelin tires are a HUGE improvement over the Pirellis my '16 had.

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[Condor1970]

I decided not to. Unless you specifically race, I see no reason for it. And if you want performance, then I would much rather spend the money on the following for $4k. If you want to race, specifically the track, I would much rather set up the car like the following...

- Upgrade wheels and tires to SVE R350 19x10/11 with Michelin w/285 & 305 SS's. (Much lighter than PP1) (~$2,250 on sale)
- Standard dry air filter upgrade (Non-CAI) and X-Pipe . (~$250)
-Track Spoiler, Bushings, Springs and Sway bars (~$1,000)

(You could even throw an Ngauge w/tune in there, if you really want. $500)

For about $3,500, you can upgrade a base model to handle on the track far better than a PP1 setup. Looks a lot more BA as well.

 

[sdiver68]

And if you want performance, then I would much rather spend the money on the following for $4k. If you want to race, specifically the track, I would much rather set up the car like the following...
- Upgrade wheels and tires to SVE R350 19x10/11 with Michelin w/285 & 305 PS4's. (Much lighter than PP1) (~$2,250 on sale)
- Standard dry air filter upgrade (Non-CAI) and X-Pipe . (~$250)
-Track Spoiler, Bushings, Springs and Sway bars (~$1,000)
(You could even throw an Ngauge w/tune in there, if you really want. $500)
For about $3,500, you can upgrade a base model to handle on the track far better than a PP1 setup. Looks a lot more BA as well.

I think you discount the Torsen differential, brakes, shocks and tuning (incl electronic) far too much.

 

[Condor1970]

I think you discount the Torsen differential, brakes, shocks and tuning (incl electronic) far too much.

I know a lot of guys who race on the stock brakes, and they are more than adequate when you know how to drive. The stock brakes in the front are basically the same as the 4 pots in the older PP1's. Besides, just put on a better set of pads if you want something that runs a little cooler. The Torsen diff is also not necessary. Believe it or not, the traction control and slip diff actually has a little less groan and runs a bit smoother. Only real noticeable benefit of a Torsen is less maintenance concern, and potential longevity. I've talked to a lot of guys who track their cars, and not one of them will state a Torsen is noticeably better than an LSD with properly programmed traction control.

Now, if you get Magna-Ride, that's a whole 'nother story. That would be a worthy upgrade, imo.

 

[foxcoupefan]

I know a lot of guys who race on the stock brakes, and they are more than adequate when you know how to drive. The stock brakes in the front are basically the same as the 4 pots in the older PP1's. Besides, just put on a better set of pads if you want something that runs a little cooler. The Torsen diff is also not necessary. Believe it or not, the traction control and slip diff actually has a little less groan and runs a bit smoother. Only real noticeable benefit of a Torsen is less maintenance concern, and potential longevity. I've talked to a lot of guys who track their cars, and not one of them will state a Torsen is noticeably better than an LSD with properly programmed traction control.

Now, if you get Magna-Ride, that's a whole 'nother story. That would be a worthy upgrade, imo.

Building a stock GT for $3500.00 to handle as good as a PP1 might be doable but will it be reliable in terms of staying cool, will braking be as good and safe? Probably not.

I think you should read Terry Fair's blog from Vorshlag on buying a completely bottom of the line GT and turning it in to a fast track car. I think he would highly disagree with you with needing a rear diff, bigger brakes etc. It really shows how much work and money it takes to bring a stock GT to even comparable to a PP1 car. Brakes, rear end and more were all needed to be replaced within weeks to make the car not only faster on the track, but reliable and safe.

Most people forget when upgrading to the PP1 Brembos you not only need all the stuff down at the wheels, but also the PP1 master cyl. The PP1 brakes will not work well unless that is included in the build. The cost to bring a car up to PP1 specs is expensive, especially for those people who don't do their own work.

Check out this link. http://www.vorshlag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8324

Is the PP1 worth 4k? Well that is completely up to the buyer and what they want and need out of their Mustang. I still think in general it's a great starting point.

 

[Zinc03svt]

PP1 was worth every penny I paid...

 

[Grintch]

I think you discount the Torsen differential, brakes, shocks and tuning (incl electronic) far too much.

Not to mention installation costs, and warrenty. Plus some of those part costs look optimistic.

But it is by design focused more on road course performance. So if you want to drag race, the money would be better spent elsewhere. And if you will never drive it anywhere but the street, a standard or mildly modded GT is fine for that.

I see a surprising number of non PP's at track days. And often the first thing we talk about is how they wish they had gotten a PP.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

18 was 1st year for PP and auto transmission on the 'vert.

Not correcting you, just think it needed more clarification: MY18 was the first year for PP + Auto on both the coupe and convertible. MY16 was the first year for PP on the convertible, but for MY15-17 PP was only available with the 6-speed manual (this is all for US cars).

 

[Rothgray]

You guys are looking at the PP1 value incorrectly. You can't say its worth $4000 on it's own, you have to add in the cost of the stock component it is replacing, and then add the $4000 to that, because if you did not buy PP1, you are still getting a stock component of some sort.

Because you are paying for the stock component in the vehicle's base cost, then the PP1 option.

 

[canyon ed]

I have about only $2200 into my PP1 parts/build

 

[Jetnoise]

I have about only $2200 into my PP1 parts/build

Curious What all have you done for the 2200?

 

[canyon ed]

Curious What all have you done for the 2200?

This is a project in Progress and includes Koni adj. shock and struts ford racing springs.Brembo front brakes, BMR front and rear sway bars, PP1 wheel pkg 3.55 RR, Ford racing pp1 radiator, GT350 pp gauges and more. Its the only 17 GT PP1 Auto convertible that 1 know about.

 

[obgod3]

I have the PP1 and glad I got it but I also drove a Back Out Package Non-PP and it was pretty bad ass also, its just a personal presence thats all. I think all of these cars are amazing......coming from a guy that just got his Mustang and drove a truck the last 19 years. It’s only worth it if you want it....

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

The PP1 package at $4,000 is a good deal IMO. I have PP1 and MagneRide on my 18 Premium A10 GT and it is perfect for me. That said, the reason they can do it for $4k is because we are only paying the price differential between the base equipment and the upgraded equipment. It would be impossible to get every one of the PP1 upgrades at retail for that price because you are paying for the full item, not a differential. Resale of the base GT parts aren't that great compared to the retail price of new equipment. That's what makes it such a good deal from the factory in my book.

 

[canyon ed]

Not correcting you, just think it needed more clarification: MY18 was the first year for PP + Auto on both the coupe and convertible. MY16 was the first year for PP on the convertible, but for MY15-17 PP was only available with the 6-speed manual (this is all for US cars).

Until now

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