2018+ GT Performance Package Level 1 Worth $4k?

[Intrepid175]

Hot button issue, I guess... going off of the conversations I've had via Youtube comments on my videos. And after searching for this topic, it seems it's been a year since this forum really tackled this conversation and the 18+ Mustang PP is even more expensive than the 15-17.


I'll repeat here what I said to someone on Youtube:
I guess I’ll just have to accept that my opinion that the Performance Pack Level 1 isn’t really a great value is an unpopular opinion. I just don’t feel buying that trim at $4k and then still upgrading some parts like suspension, rims, and tires makes it that much of a bargain. I’d argue cherry-picking parts like I mentioned in the video makes more sense. Especially, as I said, that at $4700 over a base car you could get the same brakes, gears, and radiator as the PP1, but you’ll also have better suspension, better wheels, and better or equal tires. I’d rather do that than buy the PP1 for $700 less, but that’s just me.

I want to say, hopefully for the last time between this video and my video about why I skipped the performance pack, I have no qualms about some people being satisfied with the PP1’s offerings and buying that package. It’s a good deal if you’re all set with the car off the lot... but for most of us, modding is impulsive or necessary and I hope my explanation in the video and in my first response explains why I think cherry-picking is probably a better option, value-wise.

Opinions?

Is the PP worth it? For me? No! That's not saying it's a bad deal, you get a lot of upgrades with it and that fine and dandy. I bought the convertible. I have absolutely no interest in racing or hot rodding the car and while I do play with it from time to time, I'm very careful about that and basically just drive it "normally" most of the time.. I don't consider myself to be a bad driver but I like to think I know my own limitations and honestly, I'm not capable of fully exploiting the max potential of the car in stock form, much less with the PP installed, so I'm perfectly happy with the status quo, and I don't think I'm the only one out there that feels that way!

Sponsored

 

[tranceporter]

I got my car certified with just under 1800 miles for an amazing price. If I were looking at buying a 2018 brand new, I'm not sure if I'd get the PP.

I love the way the car stops and accelerates but I don't track it and I sometimes wish for a taller 6th gear on the highway. Fuel economy isn't really a big concern, but stopping to fill up every 250 miles gets annoying when you drive over 20k miles a year.

I love the design of the PP wheels but the black color ruins it for me and I'm planning on getting new wheels within a year.

Now that I think about it, the only thing I really love are the brakes.

So I don't think its worth it for me but I definitely know it's worth it for many.

 

[V8Stang15]

I must say the comments are much more detailed, accurate, and kind here when compared to the YouTube comments. Haha!

No shocker, I guess.

 

[bootlegger]

No aftermarket magneride option, so PP is the only way to go for my needs.

 

[V8Stang15]

No aftermarket magneride option, so PP is the only way to go for my needs.

DING! DING! DING!

If you get the Magneride option for $1700 on top of the PP1, then it’s worth it! The Magneride offsets the (in my opinion) slightly overpriced PP1 alone. $5700 for the PP1 goodies and Magneride? Awesome!

 

[Grintch]

I had to get the PP1 to get Magneride. You might be able to get the PP1 parts for $4700. But, you would also have to install them. And I don't know if you would get a 3y/36000 mile warranty. What installed pricing did you find for these components?

1> Torsen diff
2> MICHELIN Pilot® Sport 4 S
3> PP1 wing
4> Radiator
5> upgraded control arm bearings
6> Wheels
7> 15” Brembo Brakes

Then would still be missing
Gauge Pack (incl. oil pressure and vacuum gauges)
Heavy-duty front springs
K-brace
Larger front and rear stabilizer bars
Silver-painted strut tower brace
Unique AdvanceTrac and ABS calibration
Unique chassis tuning
Unique EPAS calibration

I agree, you often spend as much on labor as for parts.

It is certainly not the buy it was at $2300 in 2015. Though the 3.73 diff is now a much better choice given the taller 2018 gearing.

But the real question is what do you need?
If you are building a dedicated race car you are better off starting with a body in white.
If you never take the car to a road course, you probably don't need most of the PP upgrades.

But if you ever take your street car to the track, probably worth it. If you go often, get the PP2.

 

[thill444]

I agree, you often spend as much on labor as for parts.

It is certainly not the buy it was at $2300 in 2015. Though the 3.73 diff is now a much better choice given the taller 2018 gearing.

But the real question is what do you need?
If you are building a dedicated race car you are better off starting with a body in white.
If you never take the car to a road course, you probably don't need most of the PP upgrades.

But if you ever take your street car to the track, probably worth it. If you go often, get the PP2.

I can't speak for the 18 Mustang with magride, but in other cars that have that option it can make a big difference in normal driving, but especially on bad roads. It sucks that Ford bundles magride in that you have to buy PP1 or PP2 but even for people who don't plan on tracking their car Magride is an awesome setup.

Also any car with this much horsepower/torque stock should just ship with a Torsen or equivalent differential. I just cannot imagine buying a Mustang GT without one.

 

[WaltA]

• Performance Rear Wing (Fastback Only)
• Spoiler Delete (Convertible Only)

What bugs me is that there is no price difference between the PP for the fastback and for the convertible. addle:

 

[Shadowblack5oh]

What bugs me is that there is no price difference between the PP for the fastback and for the convertible. addle:

At least the convertible can even have the PP now

 

[Concrete GT]

At least the convertible can even have the PP now

The first day my wife(her daily) pulled into the driveway she said the car was fantastic on the brick roads around our office. I also noticed she had it in Trac.....That alone made it worth the extra for me since both of us were nearly in tears over our 15 Vert being totaled a little over a week ago. That car had a 1" inch drop(Eibach) and rode pretty damned well at least compared to my Shelby so I'm stoked even though it will never be tracked.....Buy what you like folks, so for the guys who can install and want the best handling car don't buy the PP, simple.....For those of us who just want a great ride and great handling WITHOUT modding the suspension, buy the PP even if it is a Convertible....

 

[brpec]

At least the convertible can even have the PP now

you could get PP convertible before.

 

[Shadowblack5oh]

you could get PP convertible before.

Wow. I never realized they added it in 2016, guess I haven't been paying attention until I started looking into getting my 18

 

[bootlegger]

I agree, you often spend as much on labor as for parts.

It is certainly not the buy it was at $2300 in 2015. Though the 3.73 diff is now a much better choice given the taller 2018 gearing.

But the real question is what do you need?
If you are building a dedicated race car you are better off starting with a body in white.
If you never take the car to a road course, you probably don't need most of the PP upgrades.

But if you ever take your street car to the track, probably worth it. If you go often, get the PP2.

Buying a new car as a dedicated race car sounds like a poor investment anyway.

 

[Enchilada]

No way would my wife let me purchase a new vehicle, then order all the parts to upgrade to a PP equivalent. Purchasing my new Mustang with the PP saved my marriage.

 

[obgod3]

No way would my wife let me purchase a new vehicle, then order all the parts to upgrade to a PP equivalent. Purchasing my new Mustang with the PP saved my marriage.

Ditto

Sponsored