2015-2017 oil 5w20 vs 5w30

[K4fxd]

100 degree temps and 50 miles a day? is this 50 miles one way or 25?

You could use 5-50 since your car gets fully warmed up.

Sponsored

 

[Eyesac]

My car was very hard use for 98k miles, literally hundreds of autocrosses and track days. it died running E85 bouncing off the rev limiter for 4 seconds in a sustained +1g sweeper with sticky tires and aero.

This is the heartwarming quote of the day and gave me a smile

 

[Mustang Maverick]

Just use whatever Ford tells you too. No one on here knows more than the manufacturer (although some think they do). As far as brand use whatever floats your boat. As long as it meets Ford spec it really doesn’t matter (No one has ever lost an engine just because of a brand of oil).

I've read bad reviews about Royal Purple, Amsoil, and every other brand. There’s always someone who doesn’t like something. Personally I’ll stick with Motorcraft. Tens of thousands of miles and never had an issue. That said do whatever makes “you” happy.

Are you an engineer???
You sound like my Mechanical Engineer son.
We always debate OEM vs Aftermarket.
He thinks OEM engineers always design the best and specific to the vehicle.
I think aftermarket is better as it usually improves on the mass produced vehicles equipment.

That being said...
I run Mobil 1 - 5W30 and Ceratec.

 

[Bikeman315]

Are you an engineer???
You sound like my Mechanical Engineer son.
We always debate OEM vs Aftermarket.
He thinks OEM engineers always design the best and specific to the vehicle.
I think aftermarket is better as it usually improves on the mass produced vehicles equipment.

That being said...
I run Mobil 1 - 5W30 and Ceratec.

No, not an engineer. Just someone who’s been doing this for over 55 years. There are times when the aftermarket can provide a superior product. But in the discussion of motor oils the aftermarket has to follow the manufacturers specs. Yes, there are formulation differences between major brands but mainly for marketing purposes. Common sense is more important than brand. Change your oil based on usage and mileage.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

There is plenty of information out there on motor oils. So much so that most can’t digest it. Was in the business for 17 years and I can tell you that most people use brand X because “thats what I have always used and I have never lost an engine!”. I call bullshit on that thinking.

Most important for street driven car is to use a motor oil that meets the manufacturer’s specification. If you use your car for any type of racing, throw that out of the window. Those who state that whats on the fill cap is for meeting the requirements for fuel economy are correct. Keep in mind there are also lots of people who buy cars and like to see high fuel economy ratings for whatever reason.

Once you step into racing of any type those who try it on 5W20 are playing Russian roulette. I doubt that you could find one engine builder who would build you an engine for W2W racing who would tell you to run 5W20. If you do, run away. Run very fast.

Talk to your engine builder. Talk to other racers. Talk to a lot of racers. And just like the InterWeb separate the wheat from the chaff. There are so many experts on the InterWeb that it can be like standing right in front of the stage at a stadium concert when the headliner is introduced. And all you were looking for was guidance on finding inner peace.

Another place where you can find sound advice is from a Certified Lubrication Specialist ( CLS ). A CLS is certified through rigorous training in the field of tribology. Acquiring a CLS certification is not easy and requires a lot of study and perseverance. Lake Speed Jr. has a CLS cert and like him or not he knows what he is talking about.

Now, notice that I haven’t told you to use brand Super X because it will make your motor make 600 extra horsepower AND it will last forever. Beside it not existing, its because there is no one be all, end all choice. There are multiple considerations that play in the decision process. You have to put all of those considerations on the table and be honest with yourself. Do your work. Seek guidance from those who know. Not saying that there aren't some here. But, know that you are talking to someone who KNOWS.

Oil is like whiskey. There is good, there is not so good, and there is bad. Which one is the right for you? Well, ya better get started tasting.

Happy Saint Patrick’s Day to you!

 

[robvas]

No, not an engineer. Just someone who’s been doing this for over 55 years. There are times when the aftermarket can provide a superior product. But in the discussion of motor oils the aftermarket has to follow the manufacturers specs. Yes, there are formulation differences between major brands but mainly for marketing purposes. Common sense is more important than brand. Change your oil based on usage and mileage.

so motor oil is the holy grail but literally every other part on the car is up for changing out?

we know the drawbacks to things like OEM brake pads and tires, suspensions, etc. but they made the best choice in the world for oil of all things?

again, you don't even know the criteria they used to select that oil. Much less who "they" was. Hint, it was more than the people who designed the engine.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

Not all “aftermarket” or as we referred to them “boutique” oil companies spend the time and especially money to get the API cert. That said, it does not always mean that it doesn’t meet spec. It might, it might not. That is where the buyer needs to do the homework.

It might not mean a thing to someone with a race engine that it meets any manufacturer spec (see NASCAR). For a DD it is wise to use a motor oil that meets or exceeds manufacturer spec especially if it is under warranty. In all of my years I have never seen a single engine failure due to lubricant failure. It is a statement of how good modern lubricants are if the proper lubricant is used. I have seen engines fail from contamination, which is the number one cause, lack of lubricant, failure of the oil pump, and on and on. But not one caused by lubricant failure. Remember, selecting the wrong lubricant is not lubricant failure.

Seek guidance from real experts, I do because I do not consider myself an expert. I have some knowledge, but I am just a pup compared to the experts.

 

[raptor17GT]

i changed to 5w-30 last oil change to see it if would quieten the engine down but it is still a noisy rattly Gen2

 

[robvas]

i changed to 5w-30 last oil change to see it if would quieten the engine down but it is still a noisy rattly Gen2

It's what's in the oil that makes it quiet not how thick it is

if you use an oil that contains higher amounts of the same things that are in ceratec it will be quieter

and if we are going by the owners manual you're not supposed to add anything to the oil...

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

i changed to 5w-30 last oil change to see it if would quieten the engine down but it is still a noisy rattly Gen2

Wont hurt a thing as long as it meets spec and you are not W2W racing. Take it back, you might experience a very small loss in fuel economy. With these cars, who cares!

 

[mookieit]

For what it is worth, I noticed that oil pressure is slightly higher on 5-30w than 5-20w on the street

 

[robvas]

you might experience a very small loss in fuel economy. With these cars, who cares!

You probably won't even notice a difference.

This is a test between 5W20 and 20W50, hard to get much further apart than that. When the oil was 'hot' they are only a couple horsepower apart. So you're looking at like...one half, to one percent. So you'd expect a similar difference in gas mileage.

But, look at the difference measured in engine wear between the two oils at the end of the video

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

You probably won't even notice a difference.

This is a test between 5W20 and 20W50, hard to get much further apart than that. When the oil was 'hot' they are only a couple horsepower apart. So you're looking at like...one half, to one percent. So you'd expect a similar difference in gas mileage.

But, look at the difference measured in engine wear between the two oils at the end of the video

Yes. Keeping in mind that the wear measurements are based on those oils. The qualifier that folks need to remember is the one about “your results may vary”.

Lake likes to remind people “The right lubricant, in the right place, in the right amount, at the right time”. It works every time .

 

[K4fxd]

Are you an engineer???
You sound like my Mechanical Engineer son.

My son designs engines for Cummins. He designs it to last a certain number of hours. Then another team comes in and tries to make it cheaper.

Oil is designed to make MPG's and emissions. If the oil makes it through warranty it is good enough for the OEM.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Nothing is by chance. My car was very hard use for 98k miles, literally hundreds of autocrosses and track days. it died running E85 bouncing off the rev limiter for 4 seconds in a sustained +1g sweeper with sticky tires and aero.

I got a lot of smiles out of that motor. The gen 2 oil pan design and even aspects of the bock aren't that great for that kind of use. It made it to nearly 100k, so I'm not mad at all and I knew that day was coming, but better oil changed more often may have helped it last a bit longer is my guess.

I feel like on my smaller engine, manufacturers 5w-20 is good. I use mobil 1 right now advanced full synthetic, but may do your amsoil 5w-30 once she becomes a track only nomster.

Sponsored