1st Manual Car

[5tallion.oh]

Hey guys,

bought my PP GT a little over 2 years ago. Just put 20k on the clock. What are some signs to look out for when the clutch assembly needs to be replaced? When I first got the car it was great, the only thing is the clutch seemed to be super aggressive. I’m talking a really firm and heavy clutch pedal and also really sharp engagement. Car had the steeda steel braided clutch line and also the tri-ax short throw from steeda as well. Bought the car used with 80k. Now I’m having engagement issues, sometimes the car feels slow to accelerate or when I’m canyon driving it locks out of third when I had no problem down shifting to from 4th to 3rd before.

I had a v6 before this but it was an auto, so I’m not really sure what to expect.
Thanks

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[5550snotamerc]

Hey guys,

bought my PP GT a little over 2 years ago. Just put 20k on the clock. What are some signs to look out for when the clutch assembly needs to be replaced? When I first got the car it was great, the only thing is the clutch seemed to be super aggressive. I’m talking a really firm and heavy clutch pedal and also really sharp engagement. Car had the steeda steel braided clutch line and also the tri-ax short throw from steeda as well. Bought the car used with 80k. Now I’m having engagement issues, sometimes the car feels slow to accelerate or when I’m canyon driving it locks out of third when I had no problem down shifting to from 4th to 3rd before.

I had a v6 before this but it was an auto, so I’m not really sure what to expect.
Thanks

If the tach does not match what the throttle is doing is the only time I would really be thinking the clutch is worn. On the other hand I am not sure how to diagnose throw-out bearing problems.

 

[black22gt]

Hey guys,

bought my PP GT a little over 2 years ago. Just put 20k on the clock. What are some signs to look out for when the clutch assembly needs to be replaced? When I first got the car it was great, the only thing is the clutch seemed to be super aggressive. I’m talking a really firm and heavy clutch pedal and also really sharp engagement. Car had the steeda steel braided clutch line and also the tri-ax short throw from steeda as well. Bought the car used with 80k. Now I’m having engagement issues, sometimes the car feels slow to accelerate or when I’m canyon driving it locks out of third when I had no problem down shifting to from 4th to 3rd before.

I had a v6 before this but it was an auto, so I’m not really sure what to expect.
Thanks

There's one thing i know how to test. Put it in a high gear like 5th or 6th around 40 to 60 mph, then floor the gas. If the rpms dont raise consistent with the speedo, like if the tach raises up a few rpm faster than the speedo gains in speed comparatively, then the clutch is slipping. It should raise 1:1, not surge a few hundred rpm immediately after hitting the gas. This behavior is more obvious at lower rpms with high engine load.

For what its worth, I thought i needed a clutch on my last car, 09 mazda3, it was "chattering" and wasnt as firm as it was 20k miles before when i bought it. Ended up not doing the clutch, and good thing too! Drove another 200k miles on it, up to 270k, so i didnt really need one after all. Just needed to get used to its behavior as it aged.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Its pretty easy to notice when its going out. Like others said feels like rpm climbing faster than the car. My S197 had 130K miles and the clutch was fine, if you know how to drive it correctly should last over 100K easy.

That being said, the stock clutch and shifter is usually to blame for shifting issues or rpm lockout. Crappy engagement and rpm slipping is worn clutch, Plus maybe clutch chatter when it ages from the flywheel getting glazed, etc.

Also if the pedal is mushy or lazy might have air in the line might need to bleed it unless you have a bad clutch line component.

I think you should just replace it with a proper clutch and MGW shifter or similar and never look back.

 

[Jaymar]

There's one thing i know how to test. Put it in a high gear like 5th or 6th around 40 to 60 mph, then floor the gas. If the rpms dont raise consistent with the speedo, like if the tach raises up a few rpm faster than the speedo gains in speed comparatively, then the clutch is slipping. It should raise 1:1, not surge a few hundred rpm immediately after hitting the gas. This behavior is more obvious at lower rpms with high engine load.

For what its worth, I thought i needed a clutch on my last car, 09 mazda3, it was "chattering" and wasnt as firm as it was 20k miles before when i bought it. Ended up not doing the clutch, and good thing too! Drove another 200k miles on it, up to 270k, so i didnt really need one after all. Just needed to get used to its behavior as it aged.

This for sure. This was exactly how I ended up discovering I needed to do my first clutch job ever some years ago. Floor it at low highway speeds in the highest gear. If it runs away in revs while not accelerating you've got yourself a bad clutch. Not 100% for good/bad test but a great indicator.

 

[nicksalvadore24]

Do you have the OEM clutch assist spring? That spring is heavy af and throws your foot back once it reaches engagement point, it's not a very linear feeling. I (and many others) run the Steeda clutch assist spring and Jesus Christ it's a night and day difference, the clutch pedal feel is miles better. You can actually feel when the clutch engages rather than guessing w the OEM spring

 

[Kabayo]

Hey guys,

bought my PP GT a little over 2 years ago. Just put 20k on the clock. What are some signs to look out for when the clutch assembly needs to be replaced? When I first got the car it was great, the only thing is the clutch seemed to be super aggressive. I’m talking a really firm and heavy clutch pedal and also really sharp engagement. Car had the steeda steel braided clutch line and also the tri-ax short throw from steeda as well. Bought the car used with 80k. Now I’m having engagement issues, sometimes the car feels slow to accelerate or when I’m canyon driving it locks out of third when I had no problem down shifting to from 4th to 3rd before.

I had a v6 before this but it was an auto, so I’m not really sure what to expect.
Thanks

To me it sounds more like a trans issue more than the clutch.

 

[GTP]

I’m talking a really firm and heavy clutch pedal and also really sharp engagement. Car had the steeda steel braided clutch line and also the tri-ax short throw from steeda as well.

Do you have the OEM clutch assist spring? That spring is heavy af and throws your foot back once it reaches engagement point, it's not a very linear feeling. I (and many others) run the Steeda clutch assist spring and Jesus Christ it's a night and day difference, the clutch pedal feel is miles better. You can actually feel when the clutch engages rather than guessing w the OEM spring

The OEM return spring gives a soft pedal feel. The Steeda spring gives a medium feel, and NO spring gives the firmest feel.

Since your car has Steeda clutch related parts, the last owner may have installed the Steeda spring too, or removed the spring entirely. So check it out and let us know.

 

[5tallion.oh]

The OEM return spring gives a soft pedal feel. The Steeda spring gives a medium feel, and NO spring gives the firmest feel.

Since your car has Steeda clutch related parts, the last owner may have installed the Steeda spring too, or removed the spring entirely. So check it out and let us know.

You are right, forgot to mention that.

The assist spring was completely removed when I checked early on. I did end up buying the Steeda Assist spring and perch. It did help but it still maintains heavy feel and the clutch chatters like hell on 1st and Reverse. I haven't tried anyone else's setup other than the factory 24' and like you said that assist spring is quite numbing. I do like the feeling of the heavier clutch compared to my friend's WRX and another with their Mazda 3 but I just wanted to make sure it was normal since everyone seems surprised at the weight of it when they try it out. I also was reading that an aggressive clutch could also be part of why it feels like that, but the concerning thing is, I've read that those don't last as long as an oem clutch, but like I said I don't have much experience and nor do I know what clutch is currently in the car or how much mileage it actually has. The car had a good service record with regular maintenance done but on some of the reports it just states that service was done and doesn't give specifics.

I plan on replacing the clutch anyway since the chattery clutch just doesn't feel good on 1st or reverse, I'd like to get something that's more easygoing. I've been looking at one from ClutchMasters, they seem like they make a quality product.

Again, as someone mentioned earlier knowing how to drive makes an impact on longevity and I for one, did not know how to drive, literally. The clutch took a beating in the early part of my ownership, never money shifted but definitely slipped the clutch on an uphill start.

I'll probably do that 5th / 6th pull and watch the tach to see if the clutch holds up.

 

[Pistol_91]

The stock clutches in these cars are far from stiff. Especially compared to a cabled clutch pedal. Do like others said floor it at low rpms and heavy load. If it slips then it's slipping. Throw out bearing going bad typically will have a funny pedal feel for a few days then it will start to squeal very loudly once it breaks and the bearing opens up. If it's just a pedal feel you think is stiff, buy a spring and put it back in to make it easier to press. These clutches are hydraulic. You may have a slave cylinder going bad...

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

You are right, forgot to mention that.

The assist spring was completely removed when I checked early on. I did end up buying the Steeda Assist spring and perch. It did help but it still maintains heavy feel and the clutch chatters like hell on 1st and Reverse. I haven't tried anyone else's setup other than the factory 24' and like you said that assist spring is quite numbing. I do like the feeling of the heavier clutch compared to my friend's WRX and another with their Mazda 3 but I just wanted to make sure it was normal since everyone seems surprised at the weight of it when they try it out. I also was reading that an aggressive clutch could also be part of why it feels like that, but the concerning thing is, I've read that those don't last as long as an oem clutch, but like I said I don't have much experience and nor do I know what clutch is currently in the car or how much mileage it actually has. The car had a good service record with regular maintenance done but on some of the reports it just states that service was done and doesn't give specifics.

I plan on replacing the clutch anyway since the chattery clutch just doesn't feel good on 1st or reverse, I'd like to get something that's more easygoing. I've been looking at one from ClutchMasters, they seem like they make a quality product.

Again, as someone mentioned earlier knowing how to drive makes an impact on longevity and I for one, did not know how to drive, literally. The clutch took a beating in the early part of my ownership, never money shifted but definitely slipped the clutch on an uphill start.

I'll probably do that 5th / 6th pull and watch the tach to see if the clutch holds up.

Heavy clutch chatter is another indication of possible worn clutch, as the unit ages the flywheel gets glazed, warped or the clutch is damaged. Also high horsepower puck style clutches do but I doubt you have that installed. Sound like clutch replacement will fix it. Based on your comment on beating the clutch I bet its glazed and causing the chatter and the bad engagement.

Now I have heard great things on the Mantic Clutch for the S197, I don't know if that's the same for the S550. Just throwing that name out there and I think clutchmasters is good too.

 

[Scuba]

Its pretty easy to notice when its going out. Like others said feels like rpm climbing faster than the car.

I thought when that happens I'm just breaking loose. How does a slipping clutch make it step out like that...

 

[jloshotz]

It feels quite the same actually. I once had an older Camaro that once I thought I was roasting the S$&t out of the tires until I realized where the plume of smoke was coming from. Then the smell hit me…..was changing the clutch by the end of the day

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