11's all the way around?

[TicTocTach]

Get a pair of GT350R wheel bearings and they come with super long studs. Open end lug nuts if you need them for your wheels. This is a light weight billet spacer from OPMustang.

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[luc]

Get a pair of GT350 wheel bearings and they come with super long studs. Open end lug nuts if you need them for your wheels. This is a light weight billet spacer from OPMustang.

Never liked those type of spacers, the contact patch between them and the hub/rotor/wheel is much less than with full spacers

 

[NightmareMoon]

Never liked those type of spacers, the contact patch between them and the hub/rotor/wheel is much less than with full spacers

Well the wheels usually have material removed in those areas anyway so IDK how much contact area you’re actually losing.

A bit of contact lost, sure, I do have to keep my mating surfaces clean or they can click, but they seem strong enough.

 

[shogun32]

Never liked those type of spacers, the contact patch between them and the hub/rotor/wheel is much less than with full spacers

it's like 12,000 lbs clamping force if I remember right. You want to talk about friction, what's the CoF between raw aluminum and raw steel vs painted surfaces sandwiched between the two? You should be far more worried about the paint than the voids.

OP's spacers are anodized last I looked. I've been meaning to run off a set of spacers at the machine shop in 15 and 20mm thicknesses. Turns out I can have them made for half what it costs to buy them - excluding the cheap ones with the pressed-in wheel studs.

 

[TicTocTach]

Get a pair of GT350R wheel bearings and they come with super long studs. Open end lug nuts if you need them for your wheels. This is a light weight billet spacer from OPMustang.

Replying to self so I can fix my oops... it's the GT350R wheel bearing / hub assembly that has the super long lugs for the CF wheels. The plain 350's don't have that AFAIK. I have only dealt with the R parts personally, so I can't speak to the "plain" 350 parts with certainty. Carry on...

 

[TicTocTach]

it's like 12,000 lbs clamping force if I remember right. You want to talk about friction, what's the CoF between raw aluminum and raw steel vs painted surfaces sandwiched between the two? You should be far more worried about the paint than the voids.

OP's spacers are anodized last I looked. I've been meaning to run off a set of spacers at the machine shop in 15 and 20mm thicknesses. Turns out I can have them made for half what it costs to buy them - excluding the cheap ones with the pressed-in wheel studs.

The OP spacers are anodized (and spendy), but top notch - and they save like a pound of material vs. a solid spacer. I bought 20 and 25mm sets so I could make sure I got the right fit - figuring I could throw the 25's in the lathe if necessary. I had over 1/4" clearance to the strut with the 20mm spacers, so golden. Couple thousand street & highway miles on the combo so far, and no issues at all with a tame -2.0* camber setting up front.

 

[Rapid Red]

Yup 100% positive. I used a 20mm but could be due to unique PP2 knuckle and hub or mag ride. Most the interwebs say a 25 is required.

I like to be able to rotate. I even run them backwards rotation when dry.

That must be some kind of a driving skill to have .......... LMAO

Not seeing the MR as a problem. Shock needs 20mm more clearance, MR or not.

Found, Ford Performance front hubs just under 3bills, a pair not bad.

Got the winter to rethink a few things on this. Really cannot just change the front hubs, if ya know what I mean.

Good head adventure all.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

That must be some kind of a driving skill to have .......... LMAO

Not seeing the MR as a problem. Shock needs 20mm more clearance, MR or not.

Found, Ford Performance front hubs just under 3bills, a pair not bad.

Got the winter to rethink a few things on this. Really cannot just change the front hubs, if ya know what I mean.

Good head adventure all.

I think you're missing the point. Typically you want to run the smallest spacer you can get away with. I found 20mm worked out with enough clearance on a +50mm offset 11" wide wheel. most say you need a 25mm spacer to clear with the same wheel. The unique attributes of my application were the PP2 specific knuckle, gt350 hub, and Mag ride. Not sure which factor allows you to get away with 5mm less spacing.

Second, Just buy studs and a stud installer. no need to replace the hub. You can get the front studs in and out with the hub installed in the car.

 

[shogun32]

Second, Just buy studs and a stud installer. no need to replace the hub. You can get the front studs in and out with the hub installed in the car.

sure but some of us have money to waste on new hubs with the studs already installed. PP2 dampers need more room. Those of us with non-MR can run 20mm too. It also depends a bit on which tire width you're running.

 

[Rapid Red]

Measuring, 11in rim with mounted tire, the side wall width is about 13", tire is 305/35/19

Straight edge across the face of the front tire, too the shock. Will require mim 20mm additional clearance. +/- 5 will give it that.

It's not about the $$$.
Driving lug nut studs out with a sledge, hub mounted not appealing. I've not seen a raw hub. But will guess, a raw hub has clean holes drilled. When studs are set, the interference of the stud, to hub cuts groves thru the holes.

Swapping studs is ok, ARP 10 studs @ 150 , all good.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Measuring, 11in rim with mounted tire, the side wall width is about 13", tire is 305/35/19

Straight edge across the face of the front tire, too the shock. Will require mim 20mm additional clearance. +/- 5 will give it that.

It's not about the $$$.
Driving lug nut studs out with a sledge, hub mounted not appealing. I've not seen a raw hub. But will guess, a raw hub has clean holes drilled. When studs are set, the interference of the stud, to hub cuts groves thru the holes.

Swapping studs is ok, ARP 10 studs @ 150 , all good.

I think you’d be surprised how loose the press fit of the oem studs are.

Now if you go with arp studs instead of OMustang’s, yes you’re gonna have a tight fit and grooves in the hub when you’re done installing

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