10.2" Horizontal display Android 4.4.2 touch screen radio

[randy_tho]

For those of you that have installed it, what did you do with the AUX male plugs? Circled in the attached picture. What about the "Warning lamp key-press connection cable"? It looks like the yellow cam plug from the smaller main harness plug needs to feed back into the CAM on the RCA cables??

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[randy_tho]

Did anyone get the Sync audio going? Im leaning towards the SYNC Transit harness needs to feed LR back into the RCA AUX IN. Sort of looks like maybe SYNC feeds into RCA and then back out from the RCA into the main harness AUX IN. Also I was playing music through the USB and pushed the voice Steering Wheel button. It cut the audio like it was working but no sounds.

Also noticed the armrest usb still accesses music on UFD with the sync app. No audio though. I'll need to hook up those RCA from the canbus decoder I bet. Wonder if the MIC gets piped in this way also?

 

[Fallen5.0]

Hey, I Did a quick search but I didn't find anything. If we solder the volume and tune bottoms and decide to go back to stock. Are we able to reattach them?

 

[5.0_SD]

If they were removed properly then there should be no issues re-soldering them to the board to return to stock.

 

[randy_tho]

I desoldered and its a pain. The included pump was not great but effective. The iron was a piece of junk. Rated at 60W but I had a 40W cheapo that worked. If you are better at this then it may not be so bad. I have not and looked it up on youtube to see what was involved. I've only soldered wires pretty much.

There are three of the smallest connectors that can easily be broken. The other four are easier. It is attached on both sides of the board so you can easily melt the plastic housing of the knob also. Maybe try using a smaller tip on the iron.

Hey, I Did a quick search but I didn't find anything. If we solder the volume and tune bottoms and decide to go back to stock. Are we able to reattach them?

 

[5.0_SD]

Yes, I should've said also with the proper tools. The iron they provide is janky and too low of a power (I have not ordered the unit but from descriptions and anecdotal evidence say its lame). Decent power iron, a good solder sucker, but you MUST have solder wick (use the sucker first to get big clumps of solder, then use the wick to get the rest off).

 

[randy_tho]

Yes, I should've said also with the proper tools. The iron they provide is janky and too low of a power (I have not ordered the unit but from descriptions and anecdotal evidence say its lame). Decent power iron, a good solder sucker, but you MUST have solder wick (use the sucker first to get big clumps of solder, then use the wick to get the rest off).

Wick would def speed up process. I did it without it but it took basicly 4 hours.

 

[RayJHT]

I'm really curious why you guys spend the time soldering the connection points for the knobs instead of just clipping them. The board is so cheap online you can get one for like $30 or less if you wanted to go back to stock.

 

[randy_tho]

Fun

 

[RayJHT]

Yea I guess so if it's your thing.

 

[randy_tho]

Excuse to do something I had never done. Was about to break out the cutters near the end of the first one though.

Yea I guess so if it's your thing.

 

[RayJHT]

I get it I will make or alter something before I purchase it.

 

[randy_tho]

Sync and the voice button on wheel both work. Plug the aux cable from the included sync harness into the aux of the RCA harness. Also the rear USB port functions through sync. There is an app that gives the interface for phone and aux.

I'm not getting lines that move with wheel on backup camera.

 

[randy_tho]

Quick update on my experience. The reverse cam steering lines showed up after driving a few miles. The sync app seems to retain full functionally of the base sync module. I can stream from phone just as before, voice commands and phone use works the same as before.

 

[5.0_SD]

Damn, you might have convinced me once the funds are available and ebay has another 20% coupon.

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