GTP’s Poor Mans McLaren (w/ pics, tips, & techniques)

[GTP]

Rather than showcase my car, I chose to focus my build log on tips and techniques for mods and service.

Master link list to my more helpful posts. New posts added will display NEW.

ALIGNMENT

Multi-part series on DIY methods for measuring and adjusting your car's alignment

At-home method for measuring camber
At-home method for measuring toe with Toe Plates
Tips for easily adjusting Camber and Toe between street and track settings
Review of Rear Camber Adjustment Kit (Steeda or J&M camber arm brackets)
My DIY Wheel Cribs
Additional information unique to Steeda camber plates
DIY Camber gauge for Steeda plates
Slotting the strut for more camber
I notched the strut tower hole instead of using hole saw (many pics)


PARTS I HAVE DESIGNED

Brake Air Vanes

Radiator Gap Blockers

Hood side vents

DIY Camber gauge for Steeda plates

PP1 splitter winglets


MODS & DIY

White Madness shifter

Installing new magnetic paddle shifters - tips & photos

Swapping wheel studs using a ball joint press

DIY cradle lowering studs kit

Changing seat cushion angle with leveling washers (for tall drivers)

Replaced single with dual horn

DIY brake bleed catch can

How I improved the B&O sound quality for free

Join me in fixing the center speaker issue

NEW Ronin oil drain valve, modified adapter drain tube, drain straight into jugs

Spherical bearings everywhere
GT350 brakes and knuckles
GT350R F&R bars
GT500 CFTP front springs and Steeda camber plates
Viofo A229+ 3-cam Dashcam
Clear film scheme
Ecoboost vents in bumper corners


TIPS

Replaced OEM end screws at top of bumper with 7mm screws

Mocked up parts to check wheel fitment on the GT350 calipers, front and rear

Tips to remove LRCA (needs photo)

Rebuilding IRS (This thread has excellent scheme for all four diff through bolts)

Tip about popping that ball joint loose

Add a little post as a ground test point by the interior fuse box

Redline brackets changed for 2018+ cars

Install tips on --> Ford Performance Knuckle To Toe Link Bearing Assembly?

Removing Magneride shock tips

Replaced single with dual horn

Tips on installing front diff bushing insert pucks

Clunk when first applying the brakes

Outerwears pre filter on Injen Evolution Cold Air Intake

Checking A10 transmission fluid level, tips & photos

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/videos/WorkShopManual/V34.mp4

Painting my RTR-style front splitter

Better method for tightening strut nut

Better access to bumper end nuts

Pushnuts at bumper ends (keeps bumper tab screws in place during assembly)

Screws at front lower fender liners replace the plastic rivets

Solution to mounting ZL1 rock guards

Access to RLCA big bearing via toe link

Roll pins on OEM toe link adjuster

Leave belly pan on bumper and remove both as one assembly

My solutions to issues with Redline hood struts on a MY2018+ car

Checking wheel runout with HF dial indicator

TOOLS

Drilled caliper pin punch

Five Bananas brake spreader

My Quickjack mods
How I chose Quickjack 7000TL
QJ wood insert panels, new puck tags, and rollers
Pinch weld pucks for my Quickjack

Parking brake cable retainer (WTF)

24mm ignition wrench for turning front tie rods (see Tips for easily adjusting Camber and Toe between street and track settings)

Long 16/18 gear wrench for tightening rear camber arms (see Review of Rear Camber Adjustment Kit (Steeda or J&M camber arm brackets))

Tie rod end tool for pressing out wheel hub studs (see Swapping wheel studs using a ball joint press)

Anti-freeze and brake fluid testers

Adjustable wrench for AN hoses



FLUID COOLING

My DIY oil cooler build

DIY sensor port in sandwich plate

My Diff Cooler Build

Diff temp, stickers, gauge display, Kobalt fan (prior to diff cooler)

Changing diff oil procedure

Starting post for my DIY trans cooler (Needs new writeup of trans cooler)

Oil viscosity chart

Radiator fan shroud ventilated and coolant ratio changed


AIR COOLING

Brake Air Vanes

Hood side vents

Radiator Gap Blockers

Opening OEM grille cells with router technique

Right side Velossatech Bigmouth



HEAT WRAP

Heat wrap my starter

Heat wrap exhaust

Heat wrap battery

Heat wrap on diff cooler pump



TRACK DAYS

Hauling everything to track day

Seatbelt doubler for securing wheels in the back seat

Installed Schroth 4-point harness and Hans

Cut down headrests to half thickness for more helmet clearance

6” cotton wrist bands made my Hans more comfortable Needs photo

Installed Schroth anti-sub belt for use with sofa seats

Interior camera mounted to headrest

Annual cost of tracking my Mustang

Enabled Performance Shift Indicator for A10

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[GTP]

My third brake light says Poor Man’s McLaren, because I have been a McLaren fan since the CanAm days of the ‘60’s. Plus it is Orange Fury with blue stripes.

Otherwise, my car has no name and no gender.

I don’t enjoy detailing my car, but I like the result. There is no “grain” to any of the body panels when I wash it. I don’t post an apology for my car being “filthy” when there is just a little dust on it.

I never say I love my car (although secretly I do). I can’t help it, but it has become part of my identity. Mustangs are a great anti-depressant.

I still get a kick when a little boy holding onto his mom’s hand stops and points at my car.


Making this vinyl overlay was a lot of work and took four attempts.

What little boys turn to stare at. (It's the color of course, but I think deep down they already recognize a sports car.)

 

[GTP]

Background of acquiring my second Mustang. TLDR – Traded my 2016 GT for 2019 because all the great new features were not available when I got my first Mustang in Fall 2015. Will update with a longer story later, but mainly the 2018+ cars had so many improvements over the 2017- cars. For example, more gears, 3.55 diff ratio, rear wing, safety radars grouped together, digital dash, adaptive cruise, auto wipers, PP with auto combo, louder exhaust, more HP, better sounding stereo, etc.

And I tested every feature out on the 200 mile drive home from a small town dealer in KY. Big smile for sure.

Photo of my "starter" Mustang, a 2016 Premium non-HP A6 in triple yellow with grabber blue strips, and the new car.

Finally - Here is my secret to finding new Mustangs.

 

[GTP]

Reserved

 

[Duece McCracken]

Subbed!!!

Its about time!! Lol

 

[GTP]

Six links updated in Post #1. Look for NEW in the TIPS section.

 

[GTP]

My next mod...

 

[Duece McCracken]

My next mod...

I dont think cardboard is a valid material to make a front splitter out of.

 

[wingnutt]

I dont think cardboard is a valid material to make a front splitter out of.

ah young gwashoppa…never underestimate the beauty of CAD (cardboard aided design for the noobs)

 

[Duece McCracken]

ah young gwashoppa…never underestimate the beauty of CAD (cardboard aided design for the noobs)

Shiz, sharpie on cardboard is my preferred medium.

Just saying, cardboard isnt a good final material for aero parts...

I just imagined just dipping a piece of cardboard in epoxy, lmao

 

[wingnutt]

Just saying, cardboard isnt a good final material for aero parts...

I just imagined just dipping a piece of cardboard in epoxy, lmao

 

[GTP]

My next mod...

Here is my experiment to see if physically dividing the incoming grille air between my lower/horizontal oil cooler and the radiator stack will lower the CHT at all.

Note that a grille opening needs to be only about 30% of the radiator area. I opened all the grille cells of both upper and lower grilles. So this 30% is easily achieved for my upper grille. The lower grille area is approximately 100% equal to my oil cooler area (~24"W x 6"D).​

• I ordered 0.06" thick ABS sheet in a 2' x 4' size from home improvement store (~$25).
• Sliced off 10.5" from one end.
• Cut 4 slots from the leading edge at the tow ring bracket and oil cooler vertical strap locations.
• Bent the two tabs downward to clear the bracket and strap.
• Added a hole at the front driver side of the panel.

This panel then installs under the crash bar. The screw hole allows It to be sandwiched beneath the front radar bracket at the driver side. The passenger side of the panel indexes front-to-back by the depth of the toe ring bracket tab. There is no interference with the bumper absorber.

I calculated the front/back panel length to provide some downward curvature when installed. Once I index the upper edge behind the crash bar, I then pushed the panel up until its lower read edge perched on the metal edge of the condenser.

 

[GTP]

I get tired of wrestling the two rubber flaps to stay above my Velossatech "trumpets".
So while the bumper was off I pushed on a couple of J-clips to keep them up. Worked fine on the driver side, but was only a small help on the passenger side.

So now I push my e-brake adjuster tool through a grille cell to coax the flap up above the trumpet.

 

[WItoTX]

You're going to reduce pressure in front of your radiator by doing that, and I would think dumping that oil cooler diverted air in a low pressure location would reduce DF. But I'm really interested in hearing results, keep us posted.

Are you completely boxed up front?

 

[GTP]

You're going to reduce pressure in front of your radiator by doing that, and I would think dumping that oil cooler diverted air in a low pressure location would reduce DF. But I'm really interested in hearing results, keep us posted.

Are you completely boxed up front?

My car has no appreciable downforce.
I have not done anything to box everything up to the bumper cover. I only have blocked off those large gaps at the upper ends of the radiator stack.

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