The steeda tri-ax in my old car with a T-45 had the stop bolts, so I assume the one for the Magnum does as well. Although, I think the Magnum has internal stops, so not as much of a concern.
I know this an old post, do you have a wiring schematic? Does your reverse light, camera and sensors work?Took on a new project and thought I’d share it. Never thought I’d go this route but but just saying that doesn’t really surprise me.
Backstory: The car is a 16 PP so it has the 3:73 rear gears and is pretty heavily modified. Like most of us, I ran the MT82 with an MGW and had no real issue especially after adding that shifter. I didn’t break anything in my stock transmission and it worked the same from the day I bought till the day I took it out. For 28k miles I ran the stock clutch with it and I was fairly quick to add a Whipple and shortly after that E85. I was amazed at how well the stock clutch handled it. I do occasional road course days, and as some forum members can attest to from riding shotgun, I push the car hard and play with the line of limit. The 3:73 differential made 1st and 2nd gear pretty useless at my power level and considered changing diffs but didn’t want to ditch my Torsen. I don’t do 1/4 mile runs and for the most part I daily drive the car which includes commuting to work in traffic. The car is literally 95% street with casual manners and 5% track/canyon carving/hurt the feelings of another car brand/owner that unwisely has challenged.
I bring up this info because it has a factor in making choices in parts and gear selection. Also, my baseline is can my wife take the car out and drive it ‘normally’ without it being annoying/difficult to operate and that applies to me as well.
This is what I ended up buying and most of this comes in a kit which is the route I went:
Tremec Magnum XL transmission (duh)
First gear choice of 2.66 and opted for the 5th and 6th OD gears of the 2.97 trans which gives me in order of 1st to 6th, 2.66/1.78/1.30/1.00/.80/.63
Quick Time steel sfi bell housing
QA1 carbon fiber driveshaft with sfi (upgrade)
Bowler all-in-one harness for electronic connections
Rest of the kit included fluids, transmission mount, cross brace and mounting hardware
Also added the MGW shifter since I really appreciated what it did for the MT82
The clutch was a difficult and time consuming process and there is a endless amount of choices out there. Everyone has their preferred brand or special purpose for what their plans are for their car but this is also the reason I gave the back story above because it applies here. I would love to try all brands and models that I narrowed it down to (probably 5) but I’m not sponsored, a company that works in the industry nor someone with unlimited funds. My personal requirements were something near stock weight for stored energy, sprung hub and organic. I was open to single and dual disc setups knowing the inherent differences. Ultimately I went with the Ram Pro Series twin disc organic with steel flywheel.
Like I said, plenty of great choices to go with and I even tried for a short period, which was completely non cost effective for me, a Mantic 9000 organic series clutch which I will say was awesome with my MT82 the short time I had it. I could have easily just switched to 26 spline clutch discs but the light weight would have been an issue I feared so I did what I did.
Here’s some pics cuz that’s all most care about....
At current writing, I’m around 300 miles on the break in. At first, and at around only 25 miles I thought I made a mistake with clutch choice. First gear start off from a stop had significant chatter but that has quickly become better and better and I’m sure will continue to get better as smooth slipping start off has become an easy thing to do now. Recently took the wife out to mess around with first gear in a parking lot and she did great but could notice the current difference. If you’re already moving, this clutch is just perfect. Clutch pedal effort is less than stock, initial grab and capture is well within the throw of the clutch pedal; not quick off the floor grab or late grab near the top. I’m 90% happier with the clutch than my first quick to judge impression.
I cannot say enough about the transmission. I absolutely LOVE the gears I chose granted I’m in the break in phase and not shifting over 4000 rpm for the most part but again, this is how the car will be driven most of the time. First and second gear are so much more useful and enjoyable to use. Fourth gear (1.30) in the MT82 was one of my most favorite gears to play in and also was a factor in choosing the magnum gear selection I did because third gear in this set is also 1.30 which made it perfect. 4th is now the 1:1 gear which I like and the two OD gears are gapped perfectly unlike our 5th to 6th is in the 15-17 MT82. I will say it is weird downshifting to 1st gear around corners in residential/commercial zones but it’s easy, called for and works like any other gear you’d be used to using normally. Hell, I’m still learning what gear to be in based on muscle memory of where the shifter used to be. I really couldn’t be happier with how this all works together and with the stock 3:73.
The driveshaft is awesome and the second QA1 I have owned and also part of the not a wise investment in regards to how long I had it in the car before switching to the Tremec. I’m sure it’s not the last time I’ll do that.
One other thing when I first got it on the road and getting a feel for it. There was a small vibration/drone in the car that came in around 3200 rpm and went out around 3800 rpm. Believe me I thought of every possible scenario and incorporated lots of others thoughts to the mix so before you start throwing out ideas, it was figured out. There is a reverse lockout solenoid that is on the drivers side tail section of the transmission and it was touching the body lightly. The idea of what to do was easy but the process of doing it wasn’t quite so easy especially without removing things. It took a small hydraulic ram to push, which happens to be a much stronger and stiffer section than I expected, the body panel away which now looks like this, totally fixed the issue and might as well be a mile away compared to what was before.
This is the electronic harness that was included with the kit and sold from Bowler. It incorporates all electrical connections and really made everything work easily and its adjustable for things such as tire size, OOS pulse calibration and reverse lockout parameters to make to your liking (speed at which lockout engages or deactivates). Reverse switch is a no brainer. Literally soldering 5 total wires to the original trans harness to make everything connect; the two reverse wires and reverse camera and light work like stock. Positive, ground and oss wire.....done. You download an app to your iPhone or android and and it Bluetooth connects when ever you want for changing parameters. Without going into too much detail, just go with it’s easy and works great. All connectors to the sensors on the trans are OE style and weather sealed.
In regards to the actual install, it’s no more difficult than changing a clutch if you’re comfortable with it. I really liked the separate bell housing.
That’s all I got for now. Still have miles to go before it all gets more aggressive testing but I have no doubts.
lol.
Mine did this also at first. I pulled the tune, put it back in and did a crank relearn procedure & I’ve been fine since.
I will send the car with my local tuner to see if is something on the parameters, i did multiple crank relearn but not luck
I bought the car as is with all that issues, that im fixing. I'm pretty sure that need shims but my concern its what TOB i need to use to not over push the pressure plate. I saw here are using the OEM 2014 gt500 TOB that is shorter than the 2015-2017 GT, both have the same stroke?
