My Custom Exhaust 2.0: Muffler Delete

[davekro]

They were actually a fairly loose fit. ID of the tips was about 2.3" so they had a bit of play in them over the 2.25" pipe. I would think that you can do the 3 bolt mounting system like the DC Sport tips without much issue on these.

I don't exactly agree with the tech's comments on other country requirements as the V6 is only being sold in North America. What I think could have happened is that they just decided to use the suitcase design from the GT because the V6 was pretty much an after thought for the S550. It gave a unique note because of the lack of a physical cross-over and its muffling effects from the large open chamber design.

I would think that even with the suitcase removed that the OEM mufflers will still keep the car quiet and very tinny sounding. I don't think you will achieve a deep note with this setup. You can listen to a few 11-14 mustangs with OEM mufflers to see what I am talking about. That is basically what this system would be. The OEM exhaust from the 11-14 V6...

As for what I think of each system... The 11-14 design was a more efficient design allowing for the exhaust scavenging effect while the 15 design sounds much better and deeper on the 3.7L. With that though the 15's exhaust is more susceptible to drone issues as we have discovered where as with the 11-14 it was fairly difficult to produce the drone issues we are seeing. So to sum it all up, 11-14 more efficient while 15 sounds better.

I would try the 11385 and see what that does for you. It should be able to retain most of the deep tone while providing a physical crossover and a bit more volume over the OEM suitcase.

Zack, thank you for your thoughts. I'm thinking that if the Magnaflow X resonator maintains 'most' of the low sound of the suitcase, without introducing rasp that would be very good.
I currently have 3 sets of mufflers to play with on the end of the system. MF 11" , 14" and stock.

I too think the stock mufflers would be a poor sounding choice in this situation.

Do you think those mesh flex connectors behind the cats would easily allow the pipes to move in 1/8" on each side to fit into the MF X resonator? Do you see any long term downside of using AK Steel extensions from the back of the MF X Res to the stock tubing?

I cannot tell from the pictures I have if the stock pipe in front and back of the suitcase is nice and round for a good slipover fit. From your old system, can you confirm that the tube just in front of and behind the resonator actually is 2 1/4" OD to slip into the MF X?
Thanks.

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[zackmd1]

Zack, thank you for your thoughts. I'm thinking that if the Magnaflow X resonator maintains 'most' of the low sound of the suitcase, without introducing rasp that would be very good.
I currently have 3 sets of mufflers to play with on the end of the system. MF 11" , 14" and stock.

I too think the stock mufflers would be a poor sounding choice in this situation.

Do you think those mesh flex connectors behind the cats would easily allow the pipes to move in 1/8" on each side to fit into the MF X resonator? Do you see any long term downside of using AK Steel extensions from the back of the MF X Res to the stock tubing?

I cannot tell from the pictures I have if the stock pipe in front and back of the suitcase is nice and round for a good slipover fit. From your old system, can you confirm that the tube just in front of and behind the resonator actually is 2 1/4" OD to slip into the MF X?
Thanks.

They are not extremely flexible but I think you might be able to get what you need out of them. The only problem I see with the steel extensions is the risk of corrosion. That is not as big of an issue for you in California as it is for me in Maryland though.

The front section is damn near perfect for a slip joint. Yes both the front and rear measure 2.25". The problem is going to be the rear. The pipes bend immediately after the resonator so their is no straight section for a clamp. For this you will need your extensions welded in place.

 

[Joe_Stang]

Hey Zach!

All this exhaust talk, when you going to start showing us what that stang can really do on the street haha.

 

[zackmd1]

Hey Zach!

All this exhaust talk, when you going to start showing us what that stang can really do on the street haha.

Haha! In time! Got some things to address with my long tube header exhaust first. After I do plan on hitting the dyno! MAYBE I can get to the strip at some point this summer as well.

 

[Joe_Stang]

Haha! In time! Got some things to address with my long tube header exhaust first. After I do plan on hitting the dyno! MAYBE I can get to the strip at some point this summer as well.

Yeah I plan on hitting the local track sometime this summer as well. Progress is slow but steady with modding my car.

 

[davekro]

They are not extremely flexible but I think you might be able to get what you need out of them. The only problem I see with the steel extensions is the risk of corrosion. That is not as big of an issue for you in California as it is for me in Maryland though.

The front section is damn near perfect for a slip joint. Yes both the front and rear measure 2.25". The problem is going to be the rear. The pipes bend immediately after the resonator so their is no straight section for a clamp. For this you will need your extensions welded in place.

Pipes back of suitcase:From my under car pics it looks like there might be ≈ 1" fairly straight but curving down ( (if I Sawsall right behind weld). Not much for a slip joint, but I wonder how well a lap joint band clamp will hold and seal that connection, at least for temporary testing. If it seems at all flexible I could put a temporary strap hanger w/ saddle clamp. For permanent installation I might get some SS pipe and have slight bend made to ends.

http://smile.amazon.com/Dynomax-332...max+33231+Stainless+Steel+Hardware+Clamp+Band

I just received two of these. I have not used them before, but reviews say they make a strong joint and can even form to a bit of a bend. This lap joint has to be way more solid than using butt joint connections with a band clamp, I'd guess.

Have you (or anyone) used band clamps and can comment on their sturdiness for this application?

EDIT:
Zack, can you tell by looking into the inlets if there is any physical pipe crossover, two parallel perforated pipes or just one big open chamber with packing some how? Would a pic show anything? Suitcase appears to be about 6" longer than the 11385. Maybe less width wise (I can't measure w/o jacking car up) .

I am wondering what just keeping the suitcase and welding a crossover right at the front of the suitcase (after the OEM clamps) might do to my sound, meaning decrease drone? Hmmmn... I wonder if it would add more low tone and hence more drone? Is there room at the front to weld a cross pipe? Looks like 'maybe' from pics.

 

[zackmd1]

EDIT:
Zack, can you tell by looking into the inlets if there is any physical pipe crossover, two parallel perforated pipes or just one big open chamber with packing some how? Would a pic show anything? Suitcase appears to be about 6" longer than the 11385. Maybe less width wise (I can't measure w/o jacking car up) .

I am wondering what just keeping the suitcase and welding a crossover right at the front of the suitcase (after the OEM clamps) might do to my sound, meaning decrease drone? Hmmmn... I wonder if it would add more low tone and hence more drone? Is there room at the front to weld a cross pipe? Looks like 'maybe' from pics.

I doubt there is enough room in front of the resonator because of the clamps. There MIGHT be just enough but I wouldn't suggest it. The OEM resonator is indeed straight through. There are areas of perforated pipe that alternate from side to side. As far as I know there is no packing in the suitcase. It is just a larg open chamber with baffles placed in certain locations. Because of this an H-pipe just before might help out some and I would think give a deeper sound. What you could do is move the suitcase 1-2in toward the axle which will give you enough room forward to install an H-Pipe. After that just do a muffler delete and it should sound pretty good.

 

[zackmd1]

Well the system is officially up for sale.

Link to thread: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26679

 

[D BERRY]

I have just had a muffler delete done on my car last Friday. Just straight pipes and the DC Sport EX1012 tips. I have always wondered what you guys were talking about when you talked about drone. Now I think I know! It starts about 1600 RPMs and goes to redline. I expected more noise in the car, and it usually doesn't bother me. This low pitched, loud, humming will drive you crazy at 70 MPH. The tips are level with the valence, I don't know if that affects the sound in any way. The way it vibrates I;m afraid it's going to start shaking the car apart. Will removing the tip and maybe extending the pipe help?? The really bad thing is the car sounds good if your not in it!

 

[zackmd1]

I have just had a muffler delete done on my car last Friday. Just straight pipes and the DC Sport EX1012 tips. I have always wondered what you guys were talking about when you talked about drone. Now I think I know! It starts about 1600 RPMs and goes to redline. I expected more noise in the car, and it usually doesn't bother me. This low pitched, loud, humming will drive you crazy at 70 MPH. The tips are level with the valence, I don't know if that affects the sound in any way. The way it vibrates I;m afraid it's going to start shaking the car apart. Will removing the tip and maybe extending the pipe help?? The really bad thing is the car sounds good if your not in it!

The system did drone on acceleration but once you got to a steady speed it had no low hum? It was louder then stock but it was not annoying by any means? Post up some pictures if could so we can see your setup!

 

[D BERRY]

Maybe tomorrow if I can get a grandkid over here to help me. By the way I noticed that it doesn't make nearly as much noise coasting in neutral as when it's in gear. My wife went out and drove the car so I could listen to it, and the 60 MPH drive by is very quiet and the acceleration from a roll a roll is just what I want. Idle is also OK, and I drove by a city cop sitting beside the road on the way out of town and he never gave me a second look. So easy acceleration is apparently OK also.

 

[D BERRY]

Hope these pics come through OK. Anyway this is whats been done so far. Notice the tips are recessed quite a bit. And yes no mandrel bends!

 

[zackmd1]

Hope these pics come through OK. Anyway this is whats been done so far. Notice the tips are recessed quite a bit. And yes no mandrel bends!

Everything looks good. The only thing that might help would be to have the tips moved out about another 1.5-2".

 

[D BERRY]

Yes, That was going to be my first move. It does seem to be getting a little better, although that's probably just me getting used to it. I'll post back on any progress, or lack of.

 

[kodypiccirilli]

Has anyone done a muffler delete system with an x pipe?

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