Do yourselves a favor and check your sway bar end links.

[Chase9548]

17k miles on my 2018 and this is what they looked like. Just pulled them off and swapped them with some steeda adjustable ones. I was getting a horrific clunking noise from the front end and these were the culprit. The spherical bearings have an unbelievable amount of play in them and each end link is severely bent. Might be worth checking yours…

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[FitmentIndustries]

Damn. Sorry to hear man.

 

[WItoTX]

Just watch those grease zerks. On mine, I had to ditch the Steedas when I went to the FP swaybar because they hit the strut/Magride wiring.

 

[Gen 6 Mach1]

I got the Steeda fronts ,I need to install.

 

[mavisky]

Just watch those grease zerks. On mine, I had to ditch the Steedas when I went to the FP swaybar because they hit the strut/Magride wiring.

Mine did too. Greased them off the car then put matching thread set screws in to keep the back flush and sealed.

 

[John S]

Just watch those grease zerks

Now I'm worried, aren't the end links and zerks going for a ride with the struts, please detail where the interference can occur?

 

[WItoTX]

Turning left and right is the issue. It may clear on the PP cars, but I know for certain it does not on the 350.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

I recommend Cortex for cars with Magneride. 1/2” more clearance than stock.

 

[wmoore26]

17k miles on my 2018 and this is what they looked like. Just pulled them off and swapped them with some steeda adjustable ones. I was getting a horrific clunking noise from the front end and these were the culprit. The spherical bearings have an unbelievable amount of play in them and each end link is severely bent. Might be worth checking yours…

How were the rear end links?

 

[galaxy]

Yup. I’ve bent the f$&@ out of end links on two cars now. Steeda all the way. They’re nice. Never had an issue with the fitting clearance. The amount really doesn’t matter; if they clear, they clear.

 

[petronix]

The Cortex fits excellent, but beware of the torque spec. Stock is 85 lb ft. Cortex is 45 lb ft. There were no instructions included in the box. I tried to tighten the first nut to 85 ft lb and it stripped. I had to use a nut splitter to remove it from the car. A real PITA. If you search on the Cortex website, you will find instructions with the lower torque spec. I bought a new rod end from rod end supply via Summit Racing (~$14). I actually also bought stronger ones as spares. Rod ends are also available from Speedway Motors and those look like what Cortex uses. The Cortex, even with lower torque spec, has held tight for 32 autocross runs so far. I only needed to install one to equalize my non parallel FRPP adjustable swaybar. The other is Moog. I will install the second repaired Cortex next time I am under the car.

 

[NightmareMoon]

How were the rear end links?

The rears hold up just fine. The fronts bend like al dente fettuccini

 

[Tycoon]

17k miles on my 2018 and this is what they looked like. Just pulled them off and swapped them with some steeda adjustable ones. I was getting a horrific clunking noise from the front end and these were the culprit. The spherical bearings have an unbelievable amount of play in them and each end link is severely bent. Might be worth checking yours…

Thank you.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

The Cortex fits excellent, but beware of the torque spec. Stock is 85 lb ft. Cortex is 45 lb ft. There were no instructions included in the box. I tried to tighten the first nut to 85 ft lb and it stripped. I had to use a nut splitter to remove it from the car. A real PITA. If you search on the Cortex website, you will find instructions with the lower torque spec. I bought a new rod end from rod end supply via Summit Racing (~$14). I actually also bought stronger ones as spares. Rod ends are also available from Speedway Motors and those look like what Cortex uses. The Cortex, even with lower torque spec, has held tight for 32 autocross runs so far. I only needed to install one to equalize my non parallel FRPP adjustable swaybar. The other is Moog. I will install the second repaired Cortex next time I am under the car.

I downloaded the instructions and torqued mine to 45 ft-lbs and I could tell by feel any more would yield them. Yes the rod ends could be replaced by a myriad of 7/16 rod ends like QA1 and others. I’m not sure what rod ends are considered best nowadays but I used to use QA1 XM endura series back in the day and they were tough and stayed tight a long time. I also have their toe links. Two other options that are probably just as good are AJ Hartman and MMR. Both have similar endlinks that I believe use the same rod ends. You could probably make your own from threaded aluminum hex tube that stock car racing suppliers sell. I was lazy though. I made my own control arms and panhard bar for my old car that way years ago.

 

[WItoTX]

The Cortex fits excellent, but beware of the torque spec. Stock is 85 lb ft. Cortex is 45 lb ft. There were no instructions included in the box. I tried to tighten the first nut to 85 ft lb and it stripped. I had to use a nut splitter to remove it from the car. A real PITA. If you search on the Cortex website, you will find instructions with the lower torque spec. I bought a new rod end from rod end supply via Summit Racing (~$14). I actually also bought stronger ones as spares. Rod ends are also available from Speedway Motors and those look like what Cortex uses. The Cortex, even with lower torque spec, has held tight for 32 autocross runs so far. I only needed to install one to equalize my non parallel FRPP adjustable swaybar. The other is Moog. I will install the second repaired Cortex next time I am under the car.

Were the instructions from 2012 too? Not speaking from experience or anything.

Thankfully I've made a few friends in here and at the track who helped with some cortex parts on my car when the instructions were made at the time dot matrix printers were still widely used.

But dang those do look like the clear nicely. White lines also fit well. Mine haven't bent yet. My full tilt boogie ones developed play after 2 years. The steedas I had were nice, but they don't play nicely with the FRPP bar.

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