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Adj Sway Bar End Links?

galaxy

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Planning on adding Steeda sway bar end links to the list when the time comes. For adjustable end links on lowered springs, how did you adjust them? What length did you adjust them to?

I've always been taught to adjust the length so that the end arms of the bar are flat and parallel with the frame. Any other tips or do something different?
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honeybadger

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You adjust them so there’s no slack when the car is on the ground (I. E. You can twist them by hand either direction). It’s not a specific height since it’s all dependent on setup (wheels, tires, sway bars, shocks, etc.)
 

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Planning on adding Steeda sway bar end links to the list when the time comes. For adjustable end links on lowered springs, how did you adjust them? What length did you adjust them to?

I've always been taught to adjust the length so that the end arms of the bar are flat and parallel with the frame. Any other tips or do something different?
I have an extra new set of Steedas for the rear that I have not put up for sale yet. If you would like them I'll sell at a discount. These are the adjustable monoball endlinks.

What you do is take old links off. Adjust one new link about the length of the old if you want as a starting point locking the lock nuts. It doesn't really matter on a loose bar unless something hits. You then put the fixed link onto the loose bar. Car should be on ground at rideheight. You then put on the other link loosely on the car. You use the turnbuckle to just make the buckle lightly snug like pinching food with chopsticks so that you do not add any spring rate from the bar. Now tighten the lock nuts. done

Now really what racers do is: flat floor, tires at race pressure, 1/2 race fuel load, weight of driver distributed in seat and footwell, endlinks disconnected. Ride height is selected. Corner balance car, check ride height, set alignment, check corner balance, reconnect swaybar endlinks passively.
 

JAJ

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...Now really what racers do is: flat floor, tires at race pressure, 1/2 race fuel load, weight of driver distributed in seat and footwell, endlinks disconnected. Ride height is selected. Corner balance car, check ride height, set alignment, check corner balance, reconnect swaybar endlinks passively.
This delivers a perfect setup, and it's a lot easier if you have coil-overs and a set of scales :wink:
 

fatbillybob

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This delivers a perfect setup, and it's a lot easier if you have coil-overs and a set of scales :wink:
Yes like this...I'm doing this several times during the race season.
20200321_132959.jpg
 

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galaxy

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Oh, have no doubt that’s the way to do it. I wish! I just had always assumed if the car was lowered, you wouldn’t end up with the end links the same length as stock. They’d be a little bit shorter at least.
And there has to be some reference/starting point, right? Because with both ends disconnected, the bar is going to rotate freely in the bushings. Thus where do you place it before you start connecting links?
 

fatbillybob

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Set one link 1/2 in and 1/2 out ie in middle of its' range. Put on car. Then passively put on other link. Everything should be fairly not bent so 2nd link near midpoint of its adjustment too. Just make sure say if link threaded part is say 10mm diameter then you want minimum 10mm of thread engaged...safety minimums. If you encroaching minimums on the 2nd link then adust in/out 1st link a few turns and try again on link 2. Make sense?
 
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galaxy

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Are aftermarket end links by themselves (adjustability aside) considered an upgrade? Is there any benefit to installing adjustable end links, which automatically seem beefier, onto stock sway bars?
 

fatbillybob

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Are aftermarket end links by themselves (adjustability aside) considered an upgrade? Is there any benefit to installing adjustable end links, which automatically seem beefier, onto stock sway bars?
Yes. They can be lubricated if they have a grease nipple. That makes them nearly indestructible and quiet because they wear less. The best links do not impart any rate or stichion into the formula by having spherical bearings. Spherical are metal on metal or metal with added teflon to control noise. Keeping them well lubricated and sealed also prolongs the life and lowers noise. This is not important in racecar but valued in streetcar. the adjustablity is critical to not add an unknown rate to the bar and system. When corner balancing a car proper endlink/swaybar treatment is critical and imperative or don't waste your time. Often packaging is tight when other aftermarket pieces are added. Having length adjustable can move things so that things to not hit dynamically. Sometimes you need more length on the links if the bar has adjustment holes. If you have plenty of room you really only "need" one side adjustable for function and cornerbalance and you and a friend can split the cost of the pair. It just looks a little dumb to have just one adjustable link.
 
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galaxy

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I went ahead and got these while doing some other minor mods. Lo and behold, one of the stock end links is bent (drivers side). I have seen this several times before, and even seen a 350 snap a stock one in half. This tells me even short of adjustability, still a worth while mod if you’re carving corners.
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