not only the location but don't forget the added amount of air being ingested to be compressed then force fed into the engine. Remember 1 bar (14.7psi) is double the atmosphere so that would double the amount of air the filter is trying to clean. I have always cleaned my FI air filters 1x per month Sunday night or before an event and dont get crazy with the filter oil
I don’t remember that brand but i bought it from someone on this forum classified section.
What happened to the wheel well liner? I worry about rubbing as well, with all of the stuff that I have mounted in the wheel well and/or driver’s side frame fail area.Get a filter sock. Filter will stay way clearer.
My dumbass was so happy to finally get done with install. i jumped in the car and took off down the road with no front bumper and the liner got pushed into the tire cause of all the wind, while i was driving and the tires shredded them. 
i bought new right after
Oh ok. This gives me something to think about because with a front bumper exhaust exit, I was thinking I’d cut the bumper similar to the Snot Rocket’s bumper, in hopes of making it a lift-off bumper, instead of threading the exhaust pipe through a single hole like most turbo cars do.
You're confusing airflow with availability. This is why you need a larger filter with more surface area to be able to compress the amount of air to reach a certain pressure within the manifold. The filter is before the compressor.
It might be that it just can't compress and move any more air. Let's see what will happen with the same pulley setup and new head unit.Well, this just isn't going to cut it. To preface this information, this dyno shop is at about 5400 feet above sea level. For those that don't already know this, the Dyno Jet software automatically adjusts the correction factor based on current atmospheric conditions.
At first glance, you might think "what is this guy complaining about? 876 WHP, and 700 WTQ", But that isn't the whole story.
This is a G3X with a 95mm blower pulley, and a 10% OD ATI balancer and 8 rib belt kit. At sea level, this combination should be good for 900+ WHP. So, based on the 20% correction factor, really only making a little over 700 wheel at this altitude, which I expected.
Here's the part that isn't working for me - As you can see on the attached graphs, I stop making power right around 6800 RPM with this new combo. The red lines on the dual graph show a comparison between 2 weeks ago, and my old setup 2.5 years ago with a 105mm pulley and stock balancer. As expected, and as any Centri should, it keeps making power to redline. The blue lines show the fall of in power. (Awesome increase in torque under the curve on the new setup, but shouldn't quit at 6800 RPM) Pulls were done in 5th gear.
So possible causes are-
Belt slip - (I initially thought this was the case. Put a new and slightly shorter belt on it, made exactly the same power, with exactly the same fall off in power)
Clutch slip. - (I do not notice any clutch slip on the street, in any gear, nor on the dyno)
Boost leak - No signs of this either. The boost chart shows a gradual increase to redline
Timing being pulled- Not this either, holds 20 degrees advancement to 8000 RPM with no knock in the log.
So, the general consensus now is that this blower just cannot move any more air at this altitude than what it is already moving. You can see that I'm only hitting about 13 PSI at redline, but at sea level this new setup should be hitting 18+ PSI.
ESS admittedly had not done any testing with these systems at high altitude, so could not confirm that my lower boost numbers were expected, or what those numbers should be. (we here in the mile high city already know that any system, will generate around 4-5 psi less than advertised.)
So now, I have decided to send in the G3X and have it upgraded to the G3R. ESS offers this service for $1500, which includes the correct larger sized Silicone tubes for the intake and inlet side of the Intercooler.
Will follow up with new results, and to confirm that hopefully this was the solution. I don't expect the G3R with the same pulley to make much more power, accept that hopefully its larger compressor will be more efficient/able to keep the air coming up to redline. If not, I'll just crash it into a tree and let insurance take care of it.
What does the car run at the track? Who cares what the dyno says if the car is doing what it’s supposed to at the track. Maybe the dyno or the guy running it has no idea what he is doing ? There is so many settings and changes that can be made to show whatever you want On a dyno sheet so maybe it isn’t dialed in correctly. The dip is weird but without track times and speed then does this really matter? If your car is running low 9’s and runs smooth an idles good and has no knock etc then who cares what the dyno says right? Lol. Either way hopefully you figure it out. Lots of cars at 2700+ DA that are 1000rwhp. I know your way higher then that but you should still be able to move air fine.Well, this just isn't going to cut it. To preface this information, this dyno shop is at about 5400 feet above sea level. For those that don't already know this, the Dyno Jet software automatically adjusts the correction factor based on current atmospheric conditions.
At first glance, you might think "what is this guy complaining about? 876 WHP, and 700 WTQ", But that isn't the whole story.
This is a G3X with a 95mm blower pulley, and a 10% OD ATI balancer and 8 rib belt kit. At sea level, this combination should be good for 900+ WHP. So, based on the 20% correction factor, really only making a little over 700 wheel at this altitude, which I expected.
Here's the part that isn't working for me - As you can see on the attached graphs, I stop making power right around 6800 RPM with this new combo. The red lines on the dual graph show a comparison between 2 weeks ago, and my old setup 2.5 years ago with a 105mm pulley and stock balancer. As expected, and as any Centri should, it keeps making power to redline. The blue lines show the fall of in power. (Awesome increase in torque under the curve on the new setup, but shouldn't quit at 6800 RPM) Pulls were done in 5th gear.
So possible causes are-
Belt slip - (I initially thought this was the case. Put a new and slightly shorter belt on it, made exactly the same power, with exactly the same fall off in power)
Clutch slip. - (I do not notice any clutch slip on the street, in any gear, nor on the dyno)
Boost leak - No signs of this either. The boost chart shows a gradual increase to redline
Timing being pulled- Not this either, holds 20 degrees advancement to 8000 RPM with no knock in the log.
So, the general consensus now is that this blower just cannot move any more air at this altitude than what it is already moving. You can see that I'm only hitting about 13 PSI at redline, but at sea level this new setup should be hitting 18+ PSI.
ESS admittedly had not done any testing with these systems at high altitude, so could not confirm that my lower boost numbers were expected, or what those numbers should be. (we here in the mile high city already know that any system, will generate around 4-5 psi less than advertised.)
So now, I have decided to send in the G3X and have it upgraded to the G3R. ESS offers this service for $1500, which includes the correct larger sized Silicone tubes for the intake and inlet side of the Intercooler.
Will follow up with new results, and to confirm that hopefully this was the solution. I don't expect the G3R with the same pulley to make much more power, accept that hopefully its larger compressor will be more efficient/able to keep the air coming up to redline. If not, I'll just crash it into a tree and let insurance take care of it.
Yeah, Im not really concerned with the numbers. Im concerned with a Centri not making power to redline like it used to with a larger pulley on it. That drop off in power above 6800 RPM should not happen, regardless of power output. DA on this day was 7,379 feet.
Yeah that is a little weird. It does look like knock cause it goes down a little and then maintains which is odd. I know you said it wasn’t knock. Well hopefully you get it figured out. No way it could be belt slip as didn’t you upgrade to the wider belt also a while back? You shouldn’t be slippin that at all.
correct, 8 rib system, griptec blower pulley, 10% OD ATI balancer, ARS belt tensioner. No knock, still adding 20 degrees up top
