Daily Driving A Boosted GT?

[robvas]

High flow cats can stink, too. At least the Kooks ones do (non-GESI).

Sponsored

 

[Andy13186]

Run e50 or e85 if going catless its a bit less bad smelling. I got used to it. My mustang isnt my DD now but it was for 75000 miles, 35000 of those boosted at 800 rwhp. Stuff will break more often and it will cost more than a stock GT obviously to keep it running. I did probably 1500 60-130s runs though. Every time I drove it I hit 120 mph and 8000+ rpm at some point unless it was raining.

And if you go catless, get a varex exhaust. its like quieter than stock with the valves closed even without cats. Just dont go WOT with the valves closed, too much backpressure.

 

[Hammerhead13579]

I estimate I'm at about 680 rear wheel.

I've had a total of 24 highway rolls from 50 - 70 mph with all kinds of different cars and have a 24/0 win loss ratio, so far. This car murders Hellcats with ease.

I understood exactly what you said here. But to me it's sounds like bragging. And you sound a bit ridiculous too. So you have "street cred" now because you are 24-0? Against who? What does that even mean? Do people care about this when you tell them? It sounds like you only race cars that make less power than you or are heavier....
You would get humbled real quick if you ever went up against anybody that had an actual fast car. As @Andy13186 outlined above - if your car isn't doing 60-130mph in the 4-5 second range it's not anything special...it's just another supercharged mustang making 650-700whp...

 

[wingnutt]

 

[5doorsoffury]

At this rate anything boosted is a slippery slope. i saw this and went full on with the mods. 600 will turn to 700 ect then you sweat cats and blowing the motor from a failed one ect. after everything i went thru if i could do it again(and i am planning on) i would of went turbos off the go but i always wanted a pd blower on a dig car.

TIres: what i did do is get a set of sensible summer tires and save the stockers for winter with all seasons on them. then i got drag radials when i wana party since im close to work. i don't daily this in the winter thou. if i couldn't do any of that and i had a ess i would just get wheels im happy with in something that will last the winter and be sad that i cant have summer tires since they could crack and cord in the winter other then the obvious reasons.

Cats: how often do you pray since you may want to include the cats in them. sorry some have had success with gt500 cats but yea oem can crack from heat and the debris can clog it up.
aftermarket cat are like rolled up cardboard. the heat melts the tips faceing the engine and they fold over. either scenario the ring lands crack in some cases soooooooo i just took mine out.

this is to the op's original question once i saw popcorn i only read the first page lol.

 

[f30foxcat]

Car has held up absolutely perfectly and has given me zero reason to worry. I do alot of mixed driving freeway and dreadful traffic.

Realistically when thought about youre rarely under boost when driving normally/DD. Though the car does feel significantly better and more powerful. Unless youre kinda getting on it, it's not a profound change to DD.

Other than chasing down a few gremlins related to the BOV early on, everything has been smooth.

Change my oil a bit more frequently. I add about 2-3oz of octance boost to every 5-6 gallons of gas just for a little added protection and peace of mind in case I get bad gas.

But yeah, in short I've had no issues with driving or reliability.

I appreciate the reply, just got it all done and tuned. Drives great and you were right about no boost under normal driving conditions. Drives just like stock until you get on it. Loving it so far.

 

[Mikepol2]

I appreciate the reply, just got it all done and tuned. Drives great and you were right about no boost under normal driving conditions. Drives just like stock until you get on it. Loving it so far.

Good for you, and welcome to the club!

 

[JoeCee]

All i wanted was a SC. then i got one... all i read about was how a blown out cat can blow ur motor... so i went catless. then i wanted tires so then i sweated axles so i got them. now im sweating my clutch... see where im going with this. a slippery slope. TBH if i did it all again id go turbo and that's where ill prob end up one day. u can keep your cats and dial a boost helps with everything else.

if you stay in in the 600 region i can see cats living a nice long life but then again that monkey on your back taps your shoulder and whispers blown motor from clogged cats every time you WOT and then you start going crazy.

Just curious…what turbo kits can you keep stock cats with?

 

[engineermike]

https://www.hellionturbo.com/produc...-complete-emissions-tested-twin-turbo-system/

 

[JoeCee]

https://www.hellionturbo.com/produc...-complete-emissions-tested-twin-turbo-system/

Call for price…I’m scared!

 

[NGOT8R]

Call for price…I’m scared!

You should be. When you see “Call for pricing” it usually means a running tab (think taxicab meter). Don’t forget other supporting mods that will be necessary. To give you an idea of what to expect, here is my parts list for my turbo upgrade (in progress).

Turbo Bullitt Parts

• BLF Single Turbo Piping Kit (purchased)
• Holley Low Ram Coyote IM (purchased)
• Silicone Couplers w/T-bolts (purchased)
• SS V-Band Clamps (purchased)
• EbOOst2 Controller (purchased)
• Radiator Fan Shroud (purchased)
• Turbosmart Powerport BOV (purchased)
• Dual Turbosmart 40MM Waste Gate (purchased)
• BL Fabrications 3.5" Wiggins Style Clamp Throttle Body Adapter for Coyote (purchased)
• Titanium T6 Turbo Flange Stud/Nut Kit (purchased)
• Coolant/Catch Can Reservoir (purchased)
• Intercooler (purchased)
• BLF 88MM Turbo Unit (purchased)
• Nitrous Outlet Wet Nozzle (purchased)
• Delta Pag 14” Fan (purchased)
• Turbosmart Turbo Oil Pressure Regulator/Filter (purchased)
• Turbo Oil Feed/Drain Line Weld On Fittings (purchased)
• Fluidampr Harmonic Damper 700232 (purchased)
• Oil Pump Gears (purchased):
• Valve Springs (purchased)
• Valve Seals (purchased)
• Valve Retainers (purchased)
• ARP Head Stud Kit (purchased)
• Deatschwerks X3 and 1500cc Injectors (purchased)
• VaporWorx ReturnX Fuel System PWM Controller (purchased)
• Davies Craig Electric Water Pump and Digital Controller (Purchased)
• Aluminum N2O Nozzle Bung (purchased)
• 3.5” V-Band Gaskets (purchased)
• ARP Timing Cover Bolt Kit
• FoMoCo Camshaft Drive Kit
• ARP Cam Cap Bolts (purchased)
• Head Gaskets
• FoMoCo Header Gaskets (purchased)
• Exhaust Trim Ring (purchased)
• Chew Motorsports Push Bar?
• Vacuum Manifold (purchased)
• Fat Fab Coolant Distribution Manifold (purchased)
• Parachute Mount and Parachute
• 6 Point Roll Bar
• Miscellaneous Fittings

 

[stonedboss]

Personally i have the same setup for now, manual, with drag springs and stock 20” rims with stock all season tires. I dont have a performance pack so my diff gearing is longer. I hardly spin 2nd gear, never 3rd. Winter and summer.

Ess doesnt have the low end torque to make you spin, so long as you have good tires (not necessarily drag packs or semi slicks) and long gears, 680whp top end isnt enough to really kill traction. You will spin just enough to not notice it at straight line

This is my personal experience though, as many have and probably will again tell me its not possible etc etc

Ive driven for 2 years like this now, the drag rear springs help alot, i have bmr but steeda also makes basically the same spring. You wont need front springs to be drag springs, but i bought the set of 4

Did you keep the stock shocks?

 

[Wolfys11]

Did you keep the stock shocks?

For now, yes
Eventually il look into some viking shocks, but mine only have 20k miles on them currently, i put the springs on when they had 4k miles
For street, stock shocks are good, just wont last to 100k with 1” lowered

Sponsored