Upgrade Roush cooling or upgrade/swap to ESS G3X or whipple 3.0?

[Mach1Racer]

I should already mentioned my mod list so that’s my bad but I’m currently already on a BAP, 2.8 pulley, catless headers, and an catback borla exhaust, I still have the roush 47lb injectors in

Can you tell us who is tuning your car?

When you did data logs, did you notice the car pulling any timing at the “135 IAT’s” your car was showing?

Lastly, it seems cheaper to keep your blower and optimize its cooling than purchasing a Whipple or ESS.

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[FunkyMuffler]

Do you have a stock heat exchanger? If so upgrade it. Talk about heat soak and high iat’s, try owning a pre 2013 GT500 with that awful m122 blower and minuscule heat exchanger! I’m sure that is way worse than your set up.

Yes the stock one with the phase 2 one in front of it (I believe it should be there though because it was dealer installed

If by 'upgrading cooling' you mean add an interchiller, do that.

I don’t want sacrifice my A/C being that I’m in Florida and it gets super hot

You could also go for an FI Interchiller kit and have your IATs at or below ambient at all times.

Same as above

 

[FunkyMuffler]

Can you tell us who is tuning your car?

When you did data logs, did you notice the car pulling any timing at the “135 IAT’s” your car was showing?

Lastly, it seems cheaper to keep you blower and optimize its cooling than purchasing a Whipple or ESS.

As of the time of this message and the 135 IAT it’s all from wengerd!! The car definitely does feel more powerful and linear than with the last tuner, he showed me the 7k WOT datalog on his end and it was money! His tune is great! This post is mainly concerning the roush system itself, is it possible to even sell the roush kit/setup after switching to ESS/whipple if I choose to?

 

[FunkyMuffler]

My main concern if I choose ESS I lose all the light to light torque

 

[Mach1Racer]

As of the time of this message and the 135 IAT it’s all from wengerd!! The car definitely does feel more powerful and linear than with the last tuner, he showed me the 7k WOT datalog on his end and it was money! His tune is great! This post is mainly concerning the roush system itself, is it possible to even sell the roush kit/setup after switching to ESS/whipple if I choose to?

You can sale the kit depending what you want for it. If the perception is the Roush blower is undesirable, I wouldn’t expect a lot of money for it. Hell, I bought a Odin kit used for $4000. They have never been known to have unreasonable heat soak.

The Roush kit might sale for $2000-3,000. Depends on customer.

Looks like there is one for sale but the price is hindering it from being sold.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2674977490...841&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh98T3Vtesd7FTahIZRgyrrbm

 

[mepawn]

Yes the stock one with the phase 2 one in front of it (I believe it should be there though because it was dealer installed



I don’t want sacrifice my A/C being that I’m in Florida and it gets super hot



Same as above

You actually dont sacrifice your a/c. It remains fully functional, and if yoy get the stage 2 kit it actually makes your a/c better with a second condenser and fan.

 

[mepawn]

As of the time of this message and the 135 IAT it’s all from wengerd!! The car definitely does feel more powerful and linear than with the last tuner, he showed me the 7k WOT datalog on his end and it was money! His tune is great! This post is mainly concerning the roush system itself, is it possible to even sell the roush kit/setup after switching to ESS/whipple if I choose to?

Alternatively, get a trunk mounted ice tank and 1" lines with larger heat exchanger and water pump.

 

[engineermike]

In the first post, he said he was switching to e85 anyway. That being the case, there’s very little reason to sink money into intercooling.

 

[FunkyMuffler]

In the first post, he said he was switching to e85 anyway. That being the case, there’s very little reason to sink money into intercooling.

The e85 by itself can bring the IAT2’s down that much?

 

[Joshinator99]

I thought Wengerd would make a tune for that combo. I just emailed him asking if he would. E-85 definitely reduces IAT2

E85 really doesn’t give a crap what your IAT2 is (within reason, of course). 110, 120, 130 degrees, etc is a non factor since E will cool the combustion charge and even if it didn’t, the octane number is so good you’re not going to knock. You’ll still make great power even on “high” IAT2.

In the first post, he said he was switching to e85 anyway. That being the case, there’s very little reason to sink money into intercooling.

100%. Ethanol needs heat to vaporize. Interchiller is counterproductive when running E85.

 

[FunkyMuffler]

E85 really doesn’t give a crap what your IAT2 is (within reason, of course). 110, 120, 130 degrees, etc is a non factor since E will cool the combustion charge and even if it didn’t, the octane number is so good you’re not going to knock. You’ll still make great power even on “high” IAT2.

So based on this, e85 seems to be the best solution here as it helps with the IAT2 as well as naturally makes the power even higher too? Should I go return or return less style?

 

[engineermike]

@Joshinator99 is right. It doesn’t cool iat2 but it drastically cools the in-cylinder charge so it acts like 120 octane or higher. You don’t get knock so you can run 21 deg timing instead of 15, which is worth 100 hp or more.

Regarding the fuel system, at the 2.8 pulley if it’s tuned right you can run a single dw400 (or possibly 550) and an 18v bap and have sufficient fuel without the myriad of downsides of the return system.

 

[HKusp]

The e85 by itself can bring the IAT2’s down that much?

It's like unicorn blood. It's magical.

 

[Joshinator99]

@Joshinator99 is right. It doesn’t cool iat2 but it drastically cools the in-cylinder charge so it acts like 120 octane or higher. You don’t get knock so you can run 21 deg timing instead of 15, which is worth 100 hp or more.

100% spot on, @engineermike

 

[Mach1Racer]

@Joshinator99 is right. It doesn’t cool iat2 but it drastically cools the in-cylinder charge so it acts like 120 octane or higher. You don’t get knock so you can run 21 deg timing instead of 15, which is worth 100 hp or more.

This is what I was eluding to in my first post. IAT would not show a decrease.

I will also say I appreciate the knowledgeable guys coming in here and dropping knowledge.

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