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NGOT8R

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Another good question is, are most wastegates in a position to where they will receive more than an adequate amount of airflow, such as in a low mount setup?

Some gates are right in front of the engine like on my BL Fab Kit and could potentially benefit from the extra cooling.

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myfast70

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@NGOT8R , sure the 4an lines are smaller than the larger ones in the block but if you are using 4an to feed & return they are the same size. It's just simple hydraulics, there has to be a pressure differential for it to force the water in to have enough pressure to force it back into the block. It will also make it harder to bleed the air out too.

I understand what you're thinking is with location, I have done many tighter installs than that with zero longevity issues. I think you're chasing something that doesn't need to be chased and are over complicating things. Fathouse created a solution for something that just isn't a problem but helps with selling parts & services to their customers.
 

NGOT8R

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@NGOT8R , sure the 4an lines are smaller than the larger ones in the block but if you are using 4an to feed & return they are the same size. It's just simple hydraulics, there has to be a pressure differential for it to force the water in to have enough pressure to force it back into the block. It will also make it harder to bleed the air out too.

I understand what you're thinking is with location, I have done many tighter installs than that with zero longevity issues. I think you're chasing something that doesn't need to be chased and are over complicating things. Fathouse created a solution for something that just isn't a problem but helps with selling parts & services to their customers.
This info. may be spot on, although I at least have to try and see if it’s even feasible since I have all of the parts in hand. If it proves to be too much of a hassle for me, I can always abandon the idea altogether.

I should add that my coolant system as a whole will be modified as well. Thermostat delete, with Davies Craig EWP and their PWM controller. This will require modification to the driver’s side factory coolant pipe and housing. I can add a bleeder into the housing as well, in case it’s needed.

@19BULLITTwhipple has one installed on his car. He hasn’t driven the car with it yet, but should be on the road very soon and will be able to evaluate how the gate cooling works for him.
 

myfast70

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I mean it depends on how deep into there rabbit hole you wanted too go but you can log inlet and outlet temps of the WG's to see what your temp delta's/ differential are, that would truly tell the whole story.

For the amount of, time, energy and money you are going to spend to run coolant thru them you could buy likely 3-5 diaphragms for that same money.

I would be anxious to see what results you emd up with if you go thru with it.
 

19BULLITTwhipple

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I used the fathouse block that @NGOT8R mentioned.

Very easy install. A few AN lines and slim fittings. The gates have coolant fittings. Might as well use them!

I’ll need to heat wrap the lines and finish clamping everything neatly.
 

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myfast70

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@19BULLITTwhipple it looks like you did it the proper way by taking water from one side of the cooling system and returning to the other thus creating a pressure differential to make it all work as intended
 

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Anything we add to these cars is a point of failure. Even very simple set up like water cooled wastegates. All it takes I one pipe to split or fail and you have no water in your engine. It’s always the simple $1 stuff that fucks up.
don’t get me wrong…..water cooled gates are great for racing applications.
You will almost never over Heat a wastegate on the street. Where can you hold it at WOT for 10 to 15 mins ??? WC gates work really well in engine bays with no airflow and in applications that get heat soaked. Just doesn’t happen on the street.
S550 bottom mounts get so much airflow it helps a lot with heat management. I didn’t say don’t do it , I just That it’s s really not needed. There is a huge amount of hellion builds out there with none WC gates with zero issues.
Adding a turbo to this engine removes a considerable amount of reliability and adds many points of failure. If reliability is of any concern at all dont add a turbo kit to your car.

In terms of reliability design, the pipes routing coolant to your gate have such a low mtbf that you can pretty much ignore them entirely. They aren't unreliable at all.
 
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ok, the scavenge pump got sent to IL by mistake so hopefully it will show up soon so I can complete the return but been working on other stuff at the moments. I decided to go with ford performance 87mm throttle body and it's installed. I cut the hose adapters to size and installed the intake charge pipe. Also the fuel pressure regulator is installed. I'm currently working on making the fuel lines for everything and the vacuum manifold is installed but needs to be hooked up waiting on. Also running an AEM fuel pressure gauge out of the regulator. The second boost solenoid is installed also but just needs the wires hooked up.
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Vandor

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ok today I got both air filters on the turbos and finish the oil feed lines with check valves. I also started mounting the pillar gauge pod but I need the AEM fuel face plate. Apparently the pressure one I ordered only came with Oil and I had to purchase the fuel pressure face plate separate. Waiting on that then the gauges and pillar will be installed. Also the speaker in the pillar is installed into the new gauge pillar. I started the gauge bus bar which will hook into the passenger side fuse box. each gauge will hook into it's own 5 amp fuse. The bus bar will be mounted probably behind the glove box or somewhere around there.
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Vandor

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ok gauges are all in and wired up. All wiring has been ran including the battery cable for FC2. All vacuum hoses are done with check valves except the manifold. Also I'm going to purchase a purge solenoid extension harness to run it where it currently is.
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Vandor

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ok Started the fuel system install. The pump is out and the new pump is built up but needs the sender installed onto it. I drained all the gas out because I want to run some of the known high quality pump like sunco 94. I also ordered new O-rings for the tank because probably not a bad idea to replace the 10 year old O-ring while I'm doing the job. The FC 2 is mounted and I'm going to ground it on the rear passenger seat belt bolt. I just have to wire it all in and run the fuel lines. I made both the fuel cross over line and fuel rail to pressure regulator line but I need to pressure test them and clean them out before install. I'm using PTFE lines to keep the option of running E85 in the future if I want.
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Vandor

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The scavenge pump has been wired in and good to go. The ground is also hooked up. I finished the fuel pump circuit breaker and wired it into the battery. I'm just waiting on ferrule crimper to do 6 AWG and then I should be able to wrap up the FC 2 wiring. The fuel pumps O-rings show up tomorrow and I should be able to get the tank pumps finished.

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Vandor

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I decided to make 4 lines total. 2 running from the tank to the filter and a AN union and then 2 running from middle of the car to the fuel rails and repressure regulator. Out of the 4 lines I made only 2 didn't leak when I pressurized them. The 2 going from the tank were good to go though. The CPE oil return lines were all good though no leaks. The CPE is way easier to work with in my opinion. Also use a die grinder to cut both PTFE and CPE it makes life so much easier and gives a really nice clean cut on the CPE line.

The FC2 is done and wired in and the tank has been drained completely for the 94.

The exhaust is in and probably still needs a little wiggling to line up but should be pretty close. I have the machine shop welding on a set of Vband flanged for the borla X pipe. I'm going to get a pair of adapter pipes to go from the borla x pipe flange to the hellion down pipe. I already purchased a v band reducer on amazon to go from the 3 inch down pipe to the 2.5 inch borla.
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NGOT8R

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@Vandor did you by chance clean out the tank to see if it had any debris in either saddle? I’m just curious to know how much gunk gets in there over time. I ask because the fuel socks often turn from white to black in no time.

One member recently posted about changing pumps at the track and his socks were as black as coal.
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