Issues with Bullitt Suspension Upgrades

[Bullitt_Will]

Currently have a 2019 Bullitt with the Magneride suspension. Unfortunately I had to replace the shocks and struts due to a leaking strut. I ended up replacing them with the GT350 shocks and struts since I was told by the shop I was working with that it would just be a direct plug and play. I also decided to go ahead and install Ford Performance GT350 lowering springs while i was it.

Since then I really haven’t noticed that much of a difference between the different drive modes. I’ve also noticed that the rear tends to bounce more when hitting bumps on the road.

Does the mage ride need to be re-calibrated? Or were the 350 shocks ands struts not a real direct plug as the shop believed them to be.
If the new ride quality is due to the lowering springs then that’s fine, and I can live with that but I want to make sure if that’s really the reality to what the suspension should feel like with mage ride.

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[NGOT8R]

Currently have a 2019 Bullitt with the Magneride suspension. Unfortunately I had to replace the shocks and struts due to a leaking strut. I ended up replacing them with the GT350 shocks and struts since I was told by the shop I was working with that it would just be a direct plug and play. I also decided to go ahead and install Ford Performance GT350 lowering springs while i was it.

Since then I really haven’t noticed that much of a difference between the different drive modes. I’ve also noticed that the rear tends to bounce more when hitting bumps on the road.

Does the mage ride need to be re-calibrated? Or were the 350 shocks ands struts not a real direct plug as the shop believed them to be.
If the new ride quality is due to the lowering springs then that’s fine, and I can live with that but I want to make sure if that’s really the reality to what the suspension should feel like with mage ride.

Not sure about the GT350 shocks and struts, but the Magneride shocks and struts are electrically charged. You can easily tell by the electrical connectors coming out of the shocks and struts. If you don’t have those connectors on the GT350 shocks and struts, you’ll need to install a shock sensor delete kit.

FYI, I tried the Shock Delete Engineering brand on my 2019 Bullitt and they worked intermittently, so I made my own and they‘ve worked perfectly since installing them.

 

[NGOT8R]

Here‘s the DIY thread if you’re interested in it.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/diy-magneride-delete-option.196442/#post-3939260

 

[MX915]

Everything will bolt into place, but the GT350 magneride internals are different. I would assume the damping is stiffer. There is even a difference between the 350/350R. As a result, the calibration on the VDM (vehicle dynamics module) in the trunk behind the subwoofer is also different for each.

If you are running the GT350 magneride dampers, you should try and find a GT350 VDM to replace your existing one. That or find a GT350 VIN number and see if the dealer will flash that calibration to your VDM (not sure if that is possible or if it will cause other issues).

 

[MuddyPaws]

When looking through the Ford Parts catalog, it appears that all Mustangs since 2018 use the same part numbers for both the front struts and rear shocks on units equiped with Magneride. This includes the GT350/GT350R, GT500 and Dark Horse (Possibly the front on the the GTD) along with the GT, Bullitt and Ecoboost.

This is based on the following Ford Part Numbers:
AST-84831 - Front
ASH-85889 - Rear

 

[Bullitt_Will]

Everything will bolt into place, but the GT350 magneride internals are different. I would assume the damping is stiffer. There is even a difference between the 350/350R. As a result, the calibration on the VDM (vehicle dynamics module) in the trunk behind the subwoofer is also different for each.

If you are running the GT350 magneride dampers, you should try and find a GT350 VDM to replace your existing one. That or find a GT350 VIN number and see if the dealer will flash that calibration to your VDM (not sure if that is possible or if it will cause other issues).

As far as looking for the VDM used in the GT350, can the VDM be referred as “Magneride Controller” or “Control Module” Because it seems like different Ford OEM websites have a different part number and don’t directly refer to it as the VDM

 

[MX915]

In terms of the Ford Parts website, if you search by VIN, the VDM is under “Electrical”, “Control Modules” and is labeled as “Control, Electronic damper control”. At least thats how it is when I put in my GT500 VIN.

Keep in mind, if you buy new, I believe it has to be flashed with the correct calibration by a dealer or someone with access to IDS / FDRS. Might have more luck checking with Parts Farm, Midway Mustang or even ebay to see if there is a takeoff from a wrecked car on there. I would suggest trying to find one the same model year or at least 2018+. I dont know if there were any software changes that could cause compatibility issues when the S550 went from Gen 2 to Gen 3.

 

[Bullitt_Will]

In terms of the Ford Parts website, if you search by VIN, the VDM is under “Electrical”, “Control Modules” and is labeled as “Control, Electronic damper control”. At least thats how it is when I put in my GT500 VIN.

Keep in mind, if you buy new, I believe it has to be flashed with the correct calibration by a dealer or someone with access to IDS / FDRS. Might have more luck checking with Parts Farm, Midway Mustang or even ebay to see if there is a takeoff from a wrecked car on there. I would suggest trying to find one the same model year or at least 2018+. I dont know if there were any software changes that could cause compatibility issues when the S550 went from Gen 2 to Gen 3.

I looked up the parts based off the VIN number for the Bullitt, and it looks like it uses the same control module as the 350/500 since it only recommended the same part number that your search generated. The KR3Z3C142A
Maybe the lowering springs just make the ride much more rough. Who knows.

 

[MX915]

The module is the same, but the file loaded on each car is different. When you buy them, they’re esentially “blank”. The file has to be loaded based on VIN through the Ford software. If you buy a used one out of a 350, the file is already loaded.

There are a few other threads floating around the Gt350 and Gt500 sections where people have confirmed there are different files / dampers for each car. At one time Ford also had a “performance calibration” file that came with one of their handling pack parts kits that could be loaded in place of the factory file.

 

[Bullitt_Will]

The module is the same, but the file loaded on each car is different. When you buy them, they’re esentially “blank”. The file has to be loaded based on VIN through the Ford software. If you buy a used one out of a 350, the file is already loaded.

There are a few other threads floating around the Gt350 and Gt500 sections where people have confirmed there are different files / dampers for each car. At one time Ford also had a “performance calibration” file that came with one of their handling pack parts kits that could be loaded in place of the factory file.

In that case, I think it would be worth visiting a ford deleaeship and see if they can load the calibration file into the current module. If they can’t do that then I’m just gonna have to take a loss and just buy a used module made for the GT350/500. Thanks for your help on this. It’s been annoying since so many people rave about the Magneride, even though I haven’t felt much of a difference.

 

[MX915]

No problem. Good luck! Please keep us posted on how it goes.

 

[Schwerin]

In that case, I think it would be worth visiting a ford deleaeship and see if they can load the calibration file into the current module. If they can’t do that then I’m just gonna have to take a loss and just buy a used module made for the GT350/500. Thanks for your help on this. It’s been annoying since so many people rave about the Magneride, even though I haven’t felt much of a difference.

Make sure that the bushings were checked too. If I remember after the cars lowered you need to untighten the bushings to less stress off then retighten them. Forget the proper term for it. That can make the car feel really bouncy if you haven't done that.

 

[Rodpwnz]

Make sure that the bushings were checked too. If I remember after the cars lowered you need to untighten the bushings to less stress off then retighten them. Forget the proper term for it. That can make the car feel really bouncy if you haven't done that.

I believe the term is to "clock" the bushings.

 

[Rodpwnz]

I have front and rear GT500 dampers installed on my 2018 PP1 magneride.

Here is an old thread with information about magneride dampers: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/magnaride.194960/page-5

M1/GT500 dampers provide about 200% damping force per electrical input from VDM. I am not sure if the same damping amplifier is true for the GT350 - depending on GT350 damper SKU, it could be the same as your PP1/Bullit magneride dampers. I have kept my VDM OEM PP1 - no FP tune or DSC sport controller. They were completely plug and play.

You will need to do a ride height recalibration. For magneride tuning you could go with FP VDM flash, Steeda DSC or normal DSC sport. I would suggest FP VDM flash or steeda DSC, especially if you don't want to program 1000+ the DSC settings yourself.

 

[Bulldog9]

Make sure that the bushings were checked too. If I remember after the cars lowered you need to untighten the bushings to less stress off then retighten them. Forget the proper term for it. That can make the car feel really bouncy if you haven't done that.

When I did my Steeda Suspension, I planned to do this, but discovered it was unnecessary. The A Arm and Rear Link bushings are not loaded or tensioned. They moved freely when you decouple the sway bars. YMMV, this was on a 2020 Bullitt.

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