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Tires for HPDE - Update from Slick to High performance

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Also I switched to 18s for tire costs but if a $1600 set lasts you 6-7 weekends then you’ll still come out better than a $1000 tire that will last half that. I dont know the match but might be something to consider.
This... I've read before about going down in wheel size. The Grassroots chart is super handy. fwiw dept. while I've been moving up from Novice to Intermediate I'm not all about lap times really (yet). More focused on getting the basics right, skills improved and finding out how close to 10/10th's the GT can be pushed.
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Another thing I should of mentioned, my local road course (Putnam Park) is all right turns except for two turns, one is coming out of a chicane the other is slightly off camber uphill turn. So your loading mostly on one side all the time.
 

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If you really want to optimize your tires, I would recommend adjusting pressures and alignment accordingly. More so pressures.
I forgot which track, maybe road Atlanta but I noticed one side pressures being higher than the other after each of the first two sessions. I set the cold pressures to be higher on the less working side and by the time tires were warm, all pressures were even. Next step is pyrometer for alignment help. Justin my few tips on saving tires because even though they grow from trees, the money to buy them doesn’t
 
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I have a new great new best friend who owns his own auto mechanic business that goes to the track with me. He even bought a 650 GT after doing ride-alongs last season. He has all the tools anyone could ever want, including the heat sensor guns, the portable SnapOn diag device and more. I'd been rowing my own boat for the first couple of seasons now I have my own pit crew. LOL. My only problem now is to stop him from wanting to mod my GT out of warranty.
 
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I like to wrap these threads with a final update. I went for the HANKOOK R-S4's 30530ZR19's as a) the Conti ECF's were not in stock and b) they will last and grip good too. While they were a little less than the Conti's not really by much. I shopped around and good ole Tirerack had the goods and about the best price plus heat cycling (fwiw, we'll see). I know enough that if they last the season I'll be getting tires again so next turn maybe the Conti's.
 

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Now go get yerself some more camber!

2.5 isnt enough for track work - you’ll be replacing the next set due to corded shoulders just like the last.
 
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Now go get yerself some more camber!

2.5 isnt enough for track work - you’ll be replacing the next set due to corded shoulders just like the last.
In the works. I'm looking at replacing upper control arms with adjustable ones. Also looking at mods for the rear to allow more adjustments. From another thread on camber and toe looks like I should be running -3.0 camber 0 toe in front, -2.5 camber ? toe in rear for the track.
 

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In the works. I'm looking at replacing upper control arms with adjustable ones. Also looking at mods for the rear to allow more adjustments. From another thread on camber and toe looks like I should be running -3.0 camber 0 toe in front, -2.5 camber ? toe in rear for the track.
2 is fine in the back for tire wear patterns. 2.5 is more than I’d personally run.

you dont need adjustable control arms, just front camber plates and possibly to open up the strut tower holes.
 
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2 is fine in the back for tire wear patterns. 2.5 is more than I’d personally run.

you dont need adjustable control arms, just front camber plates and possibly to open up the strut tower holes.
I have the Steeda camber plates but they only adjust to -2.8 camber, not a fan of cutting the strut tower holes, why I'm considering the control arms. One of my track buddies runs his own auto repair and gets my mods at his discount pricing, plus installs them for me too. I'll take the -2 in the back as good.
 

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I like to wrap these threads with a final update. I went for the HANKOOK R-S4's 30530ZR19's as a) the Conti ECF's were not in stock and b) they will last and grip good too. While they were a little less than the Conti's not really by much. I shopped around and good ole Tirerack had the goods and about the best price plus heat cycling (fwiw, we'll see). I know enough that if they last the season I'll be getting tires again so next turn maybe the Conti's.
You'll like the RS4 tire. I race in an endurance league and the spec tire is the Hankook RS4. We've been able to get up to 36 hours of racing on a set of RS4's. They grip well enough, are decent on a wet surface, wear very well, very predictable at the limit and recover quickly if you push them too hard.
Our E46 BMW is set at -4.0 front camber and as much caster as we can get.
 

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I have the Steeda camber plates but they only adjust to -2.8 camber, not a fan of cutting the strut tower holes, why I'm considering the control arms. One of my track buddies runs his own auto repair and gets my mods at his discount pricing, plus installs them for me too. I'll take the -2 in the back as good.
I can't speak for the control arms, but I can vouch for getting more than 2.8 with the steeda plates if you do a little tower surgery. Vorshlag sells a jig to make it easy, and it was really pretty painless. Anyway, sounds like you've got a plan.
 

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I can't speak for the control arms, but I can vouch for getting more than 2.8 with the steeda plates if you do a little tower surgery. Vorshlag sells a jig to make it easy, and it was really pretty painless. Anyway, sounds like you've got a plan.
Another vote for cutting the hole.
Steeda also makes a tool. In my experience, the Steeda tool was ready to ship same day. Vorshlag I had to wait for them to make their tool so my impatience won that battle.

But otherwise, cut, vacuum up the shavings, and done. It could not be any easier.
 

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Just cut the towers and solve your problems. With a dab of touch up paint it's literally imperceptible and trouble free. Steeda tool is great or someone on somewhere had a file you could even 3d print at home.
 
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Just cut the towers and solve your problems. With a dab of touch up paint it's literally imperceptible and trouble free. Steeda tool is great or someone on somewhere had a file you could even 3d print at home.
another Orange man! I'll consider it. the bottom line result is more tweaking on the camber and toe settings for track and a new set of Hankooks for our next outing at NCM (first time there).
 

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In one thread you posted about wanting to be faster. This thread is about having tires last. Everyone has given good advice. But you do realize lasting longer (given exact circumstances) tires will not be as fast.
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