Clutch Pedal Anti-Theft Switch?

[John S]

I spliced an additional kill switch in series with the clutch pedal position switch (black/green wire,) as a simple and crude anti theft deterrent on my Mach 1, and it works fine in preventing the starter button from illuminating the green light "ready" status for starting the car until the kill switch is also closed. However, the car still starts, regardless if the starter button is illuminated or not. Any ideas how the the starter could still activate when the clutch pedal is depressed but the second switch is open to interrupt the circuit? (The attached wiring diagram is intended to show the kill switch wired in series. )Thanks.

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[Timbuck]

I’ve just done very similar with a 6r80 car. I put a switch in to interrupt the “park” switch. Works a charm , car will start if they get the keys but can not get it out of park. Very simple and effective.
Now I know it works , I’m swapping mine to a magnetic reeds type switch.

 

[Skye]

IDK if I can explain myself correctly because I'm not familiar with the design of that circuit and switch. But it seems like you need to move your kill switch to before the Clutch Pedal Position switch; this is the logic side of the circuit. The kill switch should be between the CPP, the BCM and PCM, so it always appears open, until you close the kill switch and then depress the pedal.

The BK-GN wire seems to do nothing other than physically complete that circuit, so the button illuminates.

 

[EruptionGT]

Thanks for the suggestion - The wonders of modern electronic controls. I'll switch sides and see if that does the trick. (Accessing that particular wiring harness is a nightmare unless you're a contortionist)

 

[JKL1031]

update? i think this is the safest place for a switch rather than a vital, like fuel pump, batt or ignition.

 

[John S]

It appears the 2-pin pedal position switch's function has been relegated to only illuminating the green "ready" light on the starter push-button, as mentioned above. (It doesn't matter how that circuit is interrupted and it doesn't have any impact on cruise control function etc..) It's the 6-pin connector on the clutch actuator "rod" that seems to send all the pertinent information to the BCM. I didn't want to potentially confuse the BCM if I chose the incorrect method of interrupting that 6-pin circuit so I gave up on the clutch pedal approach to kill the starter. I suppose I could consider interrupting the fuel pump as it has a dedicated fused circuit but there's some real current flowing through those wires and any switch better have enough capacity and bulletproof reliability before I'd tamper with that circuit.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Good tech thread with the kill switch.

What type of switch did you go with?

if a thief really wants the car, they’ll use a repo truck that will scoop it up within 15-30 seconds and they’re gone….

 

[Weyland-Yutani]

I suppose I could consider interrupting the fuel pump as it has a dedicated fused circuit but there's some real current flowing through those wires and any switch better have enough capacity and bulletproof reliability before I'd tamper with that circuit.

You could interrupt the coil-side of the fuel pump relay. It would be low current.

 

[CBETPTA]

Look at 41.22 website for their kill switch

 

[JKL1031]

Again I don't want any vitals failing while I'm going 130 down i95 lol

You can't just call a tow company to tow a car. These broke jokers usually just want a quick car to have fun it.

 

[John S]

The 41.22 approach (image below) of replacing the OEM relay with their replacement controllable relay system seems overly complicated and fragile with too many points of potential failure. If I follow through with any type of circuit interruption, I'll try a similar but simpler approach of interrupting a relay, as Weyland-Yutani suggests, with a more robust hard-wired switch.

 

[John S]

My son teases me that the rank amateur won't know how to drive a stick while a pro will just tow it. I've got much sweat equity invested in my car so I'll probably still try some type of theft deterrent just for my own peace of mind.

 

[_zOmbIE_]

My son teases me that the rank amateur won't know how to drive a stick while a pro will just tow it. I've got much sweat equity invested in my car so I'll probably still try some type of theft deterrent just for my own peace of mind.

Your son is right, IMO.

 

[Cobra Jet]

My son teases me that the rank amateur won't know how to drive a stick while a pro will just tow it. I've got much sweat equity invested in my car so I'll probably still try some type of theft deterrent just for my own peace of mind.

If you have a ton of $$$ and time wrapped up into your Mustang, the absolute best advice for you is this: Get your car on an Agreed Value Insurance Policy.

An Agreed Value policy is exactly that - a value that you and your Auto Insurance Co. agree upon and that value is in black and white within declaration pages. IF there were ever an instance for a total loss claim, the Insurance Co. would be paying the Agreed Value as stipulated in the policy - no more and no less. There’s no “haggling” with an Agreed Value Policy or “loss” based on crap “blue book” values.

Do it - that is the best decision anyone should do with any vehicle where they have a ton of $$$$ or time wrapped up into it. If it gets stolen, wrecked, flooded out, etc - you’re going to be on the losing end if it’s on a standard auto insurance policy, more so if it has a laundry list of mods…

You want an Agreed Value, not “stated” value, and certainly not any verbal or handshake from your Insurance Rep. telling you “not to worry, standard coverage has you covered”….

 

[Johnny Rockit]

If you kill the power to the button then the clutch position is irrelevant. And if someone wants it bad enough, nothing will stop them.

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