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Tomster

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This isn't a luxury car folks. The electronics package stereo does just fine for what I need it for. The exhaust/engine is my primary source of entertainment......
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Tomster

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How does one resist the urge to remove all four wheels at each washing to clean the back barrel of the wheels? Since I know I'm going to do it often, what's the choice of lug nuts that can handle being removed without falling apart?


This car is low. The jack I've had for 24 years that fit under my GT350 fine, doesn't go under the side skirts. I need to head out for a jack today.
You don't have to. Every so often, when you want to clean the ceramic, grab a box of magic erasers and use nothing more than car wash detergent and the magic eraser. If you don't let it get too bad, then they will come out almost as good as new. You will use 1-2 magic erasers per wheel.

FP makes black lug nuts if that is your thing. The key to keeping the OEM lug nuts from getting messed up is to use a specific socket. I use the gorilla lug nut socket for mine. They are very close fitting and won't distort the fascia of the lug nut.

Harbor freight makes a low profile jack called the Daytona. It fits under the car with ease. I have jacking rails on my car. A small piece of plywood and a piece of rubber keep the paint from getting marred.
 

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I hear you both, but there are times that one wants to listen to some tunes. And while factory stereos have always been pretty abysmal, they weren't part of a 3K package.

And. like I said, my F150 system is better. If my memory serves the ancient Mach 460 systems in my SN95s were better.

The 65 in my earlier pictures had some good tunes back in the 80s, I finally tracked down the parts to put that system back together as it was then for when the car is done.

IMG_4522.jpg


IMG_4528.jpg
Just kidding. Actually reading this made me sit in it and change a few settings. Stereo mode definitely helps.
 

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You don't have to. Every so often, when you want to clean the ceramic, grab a box of magic erasers and use nothing more than car wash detergent and the magic eraser. If you don't let it get too bad, then they will come out almost as good as new. You will use 1-2 magic erasers per wheel.

FP makes black lug nuts if that is your thing. The key to keeping the OEM lug nuts from getting messed up is to use a specific socket. I use the gorilla lug nut socket for mine. They are very close fitting and won't distort the fascia of the lug nut.

Harbor freight makes a low profile jack called the Daytona. It fits under the car with ease. I have jacking rails on my car. A small piece of plywood and a piece of rubber keep the paint from getting marred.
Does the 500 get the $hitty chrome capped lugs like the other Mustangs or do they actually get good 1 piece lugs from factory? I would assume they get better lugs as the heat you generate tracking your car would’ve already presented issues with the chrome caps that the non-Shelby Mustangs get from the factory.
 
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You don't have to. Every so often, when you want to clean the ceramic, grab a box of magic erasers and use nothing more than car wash detergent and the magic eraser. If you don't let it get too bad, then they will come out almost as good as new. You will use 1-2 magic erasers per wheel.

FP makes black lug nuts if that is your thing. The key to keeping the OEM lug nuts from getting messed up is to use a specific socket. I use the gorilla lug nut socket for mine. They are very close fitting and won't distort the fascia of the lug nut.

Harbor freight makes a low profile jack called the Daytona. It fits under the car with ease. I have jacking rails on my car. A small piece of plywood and a piece of rubber keep the paint from getting marred.
Thanks for the information. Not for final torquing obviously, but do you use an impact for removal and spinning the lugs back down?

I do have a selection of sockets in the nominal size that all fit a little different. I’ll see which one fits the tightest.
 

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JT1

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Does the 500 get the $hitty chrome capped lugs like the other Mustangs or do they actually get good 1 piece lugs from factory? I would assume they get better lugs as the heat you generate tracking your car would’ve already presented issues with the chrome caps that the non-Shelby Mustangs get from the factory.
My 2017 GT350 definitely had the crappy chrome capped lug nuts.
 

Tomster

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Thanks for the information. Not for final torquing obviously, but do you use an impact for removal and spinning the lugs back down?

I do have a selection of sockets in the nominal size that all fit a little different. I’ll see which one fits the tightest.
I untorque with a breaker bar and use a battery operated device as a speed tool. When reinstalling, I use the same tool to install the lugs by hand, and use the torque wrench to initially tighten the lugs. I then use a torque wrench to set the final torque.
 
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Tomster

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Does the 500 get the $hitty chrome capped lugs like the other Mustangs or do they actually get good 1 piece lugs from factory? I would assume they get better lugs as the heat you generate tracking your car would’ve already presented issues with the chrome caps that the non-Shelby Mustangs get from the factory.
Yes, same lugs.
 

WItoTX

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Spent yesterday on the car.

1) Washing the car. Car most likely has some ceramic coating where the PPF isn't, or maybe also on top of the PPF as well. Dirt just ran right off the car.

How does one resist the urge to remove all four wheels at each washing to clean the back barrel of the wheels? Since I know I'm going to do it often, what's the choice of lug nuts that can handle being removed without falling apart?

2) Car had an annoying feature that Sirius stopped working after the car was shut off for brief periods. Looking at the audio forum here, a few said the problem went away with a sync update. I did that with a thumb stick because I didn't want to plug my modem fuse back in. We will see if it fixes the Sirius problem.

3) I didn't buy this car for the audio, but wow does it suck. I tried surround mode as that supposedly lowers or possibly even turns of the ghastly center speaker. Didn't like how that sounded so I unplugged it and went back to stereo mode. Now it's marginally acceptable. Terrible this "B&O" system sounds worse than the non upgraded stereo in my 2018 F-150.

4) This car is low. The jack I've had for 24 years that fit under my GT350 fine, doesn't go under the side skirts. I need to head out for a jack today.

5) Car had Jaeger Bros front guards, one had spun and was all chewed up. Had to take it off. Anyone know how to buy just one?
I hear you on cleaning the barrels. I get all the way back by getting a thin mitt sponge, and I kind of just have to push it to the back of the barrel with my finger tips. It's gets it clean far enough back that way.

Not sure the GT500 caliper size, or clearance to the barrel, but behind the caliper is the only spot I can't get to. I just roll the car forward a bit and get that spot.

Be glad your rim is basically black. Mine are brushed aluminum and look dirty nearly immediately, much less after a few runs and hard braking.
 
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rp930

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I hear you on cleaning the barrels. I get all the way back by getting a thin mitt sponge, and I kind of just have to push it to the back of the barrel with my finger tips. It's gets it clean far enough back that way.

Not sure the GT500 caliper size, or clearance to the barrel, but behind the caliper is the only spot I can't get to. I just roll the car forward a bit and get that spot.

Be glad your rim is basically black. Mine are brushed aluminum and look dirty nearly immediately, much less after a few runs and hard braking.
Adam’s angled wheel brushes get in there pretty good. I use the the smaller one.
 
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Shout out to the Jaeger Brothers.
Car came with their splash guards on it. One had come loose and spun and got a little chewed up.

Even though I bought the car with them installed and hadn't bought them myself, they hooked me up with a replacement.
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