Bolt access to clock rear drivetrain bushings.

[GT_MTL]

While I'm replacing my over rusted rear brakes, I noticed that the forward lower control arm-to-frame bolt is ... well ... inaccessible ? As I'm planning to install the track handling pack, I'm a little bit concerned.

The bolt head is facing *inside* the car. Even with the exhaust removed I don't see how this could be tighten (especially this one which needs a solid 166 ft/lbs) .

How did you guys managed to do it ? Am I overthinking this or what ?
Thanks !

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[WItoTX]

It can be done with the right tools from the ground. I don't think I would mess with it without a lift though.

 

[GT_MTL]

It can be done with the right tools from the ground. I don't think I would mess with it without a lift though.

I have a Quick Jack which lifts to 24 inches, would it be enough ? (my biggest torque wrench is longer than that though ...).
I guess it requires some flat head torque wrench adapter as well.

 

[galaxy]

It can be done. It just takes…what’s the old saying…”just gotta hold your mouth right”. And you mentioned a lift…don’t forget the topic here…clocking bushings, you want all the weight on the wheels, not hanging from a lift.

 

[GT_MTL]

It can be done. It just takes…what’s the old saying…”just gotta hold your mouth right”. And you mentioned a lift…don’t forget the topic here…clocking bushings, you want all the weight on the wheels, not hanging from a lift.

Isn't lifting the lower control arm enough (after having checked the height with the car on 4 wheels, of course) ?

 

[K4fxd]

Isn't lifting the lower control arm enough

Yes you can do this. I still like to have the alignment dude clock them on the alignment rack.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Just leave it unless you MUST deal with that bolt.

You shouldn't need to remove it to replace springs.

With the exhaust dropped and and some sort of pivot socket, you can get in there (that's what my mechanic did on a lift), but dear god don't unless you absolutely have to, its no fun.

 

[GT_MTL]

Just leave it unless you MUST deal with that bolt.

You shouldn't need to remove it to replace springs.

With the exhaust dropped and and some sort of pivot socket, you can get in there (that's what my mechanic did on a lift), but dear god don't unless you absolutely have to, its no fun.

Oh I don't want to ... But it must be clocked when lowering the car

 

[K4fxd]

Changing springs? I missed that. Yes leave that bolt alone, the springs can be changed without removing it. I thought you were replacing that bushing.

 

[GT_MTL]

Thanks for your inputs !
Seems I'll ask my usual shop which does the alignement if they can do it.
Those guys are running japanese cars with insane lowering springs so I bet they're used to !!

 

[NightmareMoon]

Thank for your inputs !
Seems I'll ask my


Oh I don't want to ... But it must be clocked when loewring the car

Right.. ok. Yeah I remember a long extension and socket with a swivel built into it, and some amount o finagling the exhaust to get a direct line to it.

 

[K4fxd]

But it must be clocked when loewring the car

Let the alignment guy do it.

 

[GT_MTL]

Changing springs? I missed that. Yes leave that bolt alone, the springs can be changed without removing it. I thought you were replacing that bushing.

Just installing the track handling pack. So like an inch drop , which requires to clock all the bushing. So I just need to loosen an retighten it .

 

[WItoTX]

Oh I don't want to ... But it must be clocked when lowering the car

Just put the bearing in and never worry about it again. My experience, no NVH increase, and the rear feels more connected.

 

[K4fxd]

I agree with a bearing or a poly bushing.

A 1 inch drop won't move that bushing much. You will not harm anything driving it to the alignment shop.

Or be stubborn like me and do it on jack stands.

I just dropped the entire IRS swapped pumpkins and reinstalled on jackstands.

Not something I want to do alone again.

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