This is because, that is what many of us care about. I could care less about the power/torque at most everything below 4500, and that is to get off the line, then about 6500 or above is really all that matters (I'd even sacrifice some getting off the line for more power here as almost all of the run is here). It is a street car, absolutely, but rarely do I max perform it on the street.
Agree it doesn't make sense, it might not be the same from going from chocked cast iron manifolds to headers but there should be something.
Scavenging effect should be good for at least 15 wheel. A Dyno depending on how it's setup and it's correction factors can have swings in HP. Especially if it's an inertia one.
The 1000 comment is going over my head. Lol. What do you mean by the comment?
I think he means he purchased his for under $2K, whereas many spend double that or more for them. Unfortunately, I wasn’t one of the lucky ones to get off that light. I’ve got $2820 invested in mine from heads to tail.
Oh I agree, and I understand what you are saying. I'd make the same trade off for my own car as well. It's all about trade offs really. There's lots of good reasons to keep the factory setup on a street car, noise, smell, EPA, cost etc. If you are looking to increase the performance of your vehicle though, considering just the peak gains, and not the entire picture, is flawed.
No fitment issues no false knock, it was Texas Speed Headers. The only real problem is that I bought magnaflow street with stock connection pipes. So the mangaflow had to be widened. Obviously I don't have a certain part for that price, but the drone and the sound is excellent. I am not aware of the installer had to move the AC lines or the engine but everything is indeed kosher.
