Rear Toe Bushings Install - different approach

[VictorH]

Lots of good advice here.
So, what I've learned tonight. I was saving the passenger side so I could apply what I learned on the driver's side to improve efficiency.
1) Removing the toe arm bushing intact with steel sleeves and threaded rod requires a ton of force. Tried it but didn't want to break anything. Abandoned this approach. Was using 1/2" drive flex handle (a long one) and it wasn't budging even though one of my sleeves was collapsing a bit and smoking.
2) Cut out inner bushing with the 1 5/8" hole saw and tried same as above again. Same result, it's still going to require a LOT of force to remove just the outer bushing ring.
3) I think the relief cuts inside the ring, but without necessarily going through makes the force required for removal so much easier. Will cut those tomorrow.

Bushings are now in the freezer and hope to get the install completed tomorrow or Sunday. Will post progress (or frustration)

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[VictorH]

Well, I guess I had to surrender. People older and wiser than me suggested removal of the bearing carrier to install the toe arm. I tried and tried with the sleeves and threaded rod but for the life of me I could not get the bushing to start straight. It would look okay and then move off slanted. For some reason the rod was not lined up straight for an even, straight pull despite dozens fo trials.
Removing the bearing carrier and placing into my home 12 ton hydraulic press was so much easier. Live and learn.

 

[TeeLew]

In honor of this thread, I stopped putting off the inevitable and started my bushing-to-spherical job. What a bastard that bushing is to get out! I got 1 side, but was doing it with a C-clamp type ball-joint press. So now the bushing is out, but the clamp is F'd. I guess I'll just pull the uprights and do it off the car. That's not what I wanted.

 

[NGOT8R]

In honor of this thread, I stopped putting off the inevitable and started my bushing-to-spherical job. What a bastard that bushing is to get out! I got 1 side, but was doing it with a C-clamp type ball-joint press. So now the bushing is out, but the clamp is F'd. I guess I'll just pull the uprights and do it off the car. That's not what I wanted.

Dealing with those bushings in the RLCA is no joke! They will piss you off and tear up tools like it’s nobody’s business. I’ll go out on a limb and say that more people probably would like to do this mod, but shy away from it because of the high level of difficulty.

 

[TeeLew]

Dealing with those bushings in the RLCA is no joke! They will piss you off and tear up tools like it’s nobody’s business. I’ll go out on a limb and say that more people probably would like to do this mod, but shy away from it because of the high level of difficulty.

This is just the toe bushing in the upright. It's still a bugger.

 

[NGOT8R]

This is just the toe bushing in the upright. It's still a bugger.

Yeah, neither of them (RLCA & Toe) are giving up without a fight. Keep bustin‘ em in the mouth though and they’ll let go eventually.

 

[NGOT8R]

Although I had the press ram repaired on my 12 ton press after bending it during an attempt to remove the RLCA bushing, I doubt I would attempt this again without at least a 20 ton press.

 

[VictorH]

Since I was doing the bushings I decided now was the time to go ahead and install adjustable camber arms and camber lock-out plates. Passenger side much easier to access everything compared to the driver's side. Toe bushings, now that I've done one side just so much easier in a press off the car than on. Just need to torque everything down and then an alignment and all set. I think the rear end is all done now.

 

[TeeLew]

I pulled my uprights and went to a friend's shop to use his press. It was an easy job once off the car.

One thing that bugged me. There's a ring around the toe bearing. That should be there to help you center it when installing. If you use it, though, the bearing isn't in far enough. To center the bearing in the upright, you have to press it several mm further in.

Side note: buying a small, counter sized bottle jack press is damn near impossible right now.

 

[VictorH]

Couple more shots of the rear suspension. I think it's complete for what I need.
1) SS brake lines
2) Adjustable camber arms
3) Ford Performance Toe link bushings
4) Rear sub-frame lock out kit
5) Billet vertical link
6) PFC slotted rear rotors (just ordered, not here yet)

I'm a road track guy and not drag racer so hopefully this will do the trick. Originally was going to run completely stock, but then with price increases on everything thought, I'll move the upgrade program up. First track event VIR end of April.

 

[NGOT8R]

Looks good! It should treat you right out on the road course. I have a lot of suspension components on the rear of my car too. I’m getting ready to install Steeda‘s adjustable toe links here shortly. I’ve also been thinking about upgrading the camber arm bushings (remove and replace factory bushings, like you did with your toe link bushings), but don’t want to go to the trouble if there’s not likely going to be any real gain for a street/strip car. Decisions, decisions!

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