What are some common pain points on cars that see track duty?

[dem00n]

I'm at 40k miles and have somewhere around 20+ track days on the 2017.

I've lost:
A/C Compressor (Don't run A/C on track)
2nd and 5th gear (Now at Ford)
Driver side flex pipe
Front splitter
Rear clunk (Looking into it)
Many brakes pads, tires, oil changes.

I'm on the fence about selling, as all of these problems have come at once, that's typically not a good sign for the overall health of the car. Engine is healthy.

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[pilotgore]

What did the oil pan hole look like? Isn't it made of plastic?
There does not seem to be enough material missing from the Ronin plug to explain it popping loose.

I just got around to the oil change after shooting my oil plug out of the oil pan on track. One of the tabs in the opening of the oil pan was completely sheered off, and the other looks like half is sheered off. What’s incredibly scary is that I ran another few sessions like that. . .

With the plug reinserted, I can pull the plug straight out by pulling pretty hard. Looks like a flatbed to the dealer and a new oil pan is in my future.

Fun times.

 

[ChipG]

I just got around to the oil change after shooting my oil plug out of the oil pan on track. One of the tabs in the opening of the oil pan was completely sheered off, and the other looks like half is sheered off. What’s incredibly scary is that I ran another few sessions like that. . .

With the plug reinserted, I can pull the plug straight out by pulling pretty hard. Looks like a flatbed to the dealer and a new oil pan is in my future.

Fun times.

Given that, I'm curious whether the Ronin plug is a factor or not (I need to settle on a hypothesis as I currently have a Ronin plug safety-wired in and need to decide whether to go back to OEM).

Either:

1 - the issue was not plug-related and could happen with any plug, you just happened to have it occur with a Ronin plug in or

2 - The issue was at least partially cause by the Ronin plug (different material, weight, vibration, whatever)

 

[pilotgore]

Given that, I'm curious whether the Ronin plug is a factor or not (I need to settle on a hypothesis as I currently have a Ronin plug safety-wired in and need to decide whether to go back to OEM).

Either:

1 - the issue was not plug-related and could happen with any plug, you just happened to have it occur with a Ronin plug in or

2 - The issue was at least partially cause by the Ronin plug (different material, weight, vibration, whatever)

I’m curious also, but the way I choose to look at it now is: If the car shoots a ronin plug out on track again and it fry’s the motor, then I’m buying a new motor. If it’s a factory plug, fords buying me a new motor. For this reason alone, I’ll stay with the factory plug.

 

[ChipG]

I’m curious also, but the way I choose to look at it now is: If the car shoots a ronin plug out on track again and it fry’s the motor, then I’m buying a new motor. If it’s a factory plug, fords buying me a new motor. For this reason alone, I’ll stay with the factory plug.

If the plug shoots out and the motor is toast, you can bet the MISSING plug was an OEM plug

 

[pilotgore]

If the plug shoots out and the motor is toast, you can bet the MISSING plug was an OEM plug

Aaaaaaaaaamen

 

[GTP]

I just got around to the oil change after shooting my oil plug out of the oil pan on track. One of the tabs in the opening of the oil pan was completely sheered off, and the other looks like half is sheered off. What’s incredibly scary is that I ran another few sessions like that. . .

With the plug reinserted, I can pull the plug straight out by pulling pretty hard. Looks like a flatbed to the dealer and a new oil pan is in my future.

Fun times.

I had a strong feeling that it would be the pan and not the Ronin. Isn't the Ronin metal anyway?

Maybe it weakened the pan tabs during initial install?

After 3 track days my Ronin Plug and cap are still secure.

 

[pilotgore]

I had a strong feeling that it would be the pan and not the Ronin. Isn't the Ronin metal anyway?

Maybe it weakened the pan tabs during initial install?

After 3 track days my Ronin Plug and cap are still secure.

The ronin is metal, yes.

Have you changed the oil since installing your ronin? Im just curious because I lost both of my dust caps in the 2 track days following an oil change. Likely from trace amounts of oil left in the threads I couldn’t clean, and the cap simply vibrated loose

Is it possible the tabs had been damaged during initial install…. I suppose but I don’t see how. It’s not like you’re torquing that thing down, it’s either seated or it isn’t. The base part of the ronin has been in the oil pan for 20+ track days and helped me with 10 oil changes without fail (up to that point.)

Maybe a plastic plug would have just shot straight out and not broken the tabs?

Something more serious must have happened for the oil pan to be pressurized enough the shoot out an oil plug.

Might be time to sell the car ;)

 

[72&18]

The pressure issue is what I was thinking about. I have a UPR plug that screws in and out with a rubber cap on the nipple. The first time I installed it I left it open, screwed all the way out is closed...., I ran 2 track days and street driving and the rubber cap never came off. I am very lucky, but would think if the pan had enough pressure to eject a ronin plug and damage the pan something else might be going on.

 

[NoXiDe]

Something more serious must have happened for the oil pan to be pressurized enough the shoot out an oil plug....

It was that moment when you hit 8251.... haha.

 

[DCShelby]

You don’t make friends at the track when your car pukes out oil or coolant out and the kitty litter comes out and people sit while it’s cleaned up!

 

[NightmareMoon]

Biggest pain point is the pain in my wallet from buying multiple sets of track tires. Ouch.

4 rear axles failed, AC compressor (not sure if track caused or not), twice had leaks at the oil pressure sender (not related I guess), front bumper clips from going 4 off, torn stock LCA bushing, dead shock, rear bumper clips from running over cones. The engine has held up pretty well (so far), which is the main thing.

 

[pilotgore]

You don’t make friends at the track when your car pukes out oil or coolant out and the kitty litter comes out and people sit while it’s cleaned up!

It’s so true…. Although the group I primarily run with make it a point to tell everyone in the morning drivers meeting that shit will likely happen, and when it does just try to remember that when it does, someone else is having a worse day than you. Also, be kind because the next time it might be you. I think it helps a little with peoples frustrations.

 

[Hack]

The metal plug is going to be a lot heavier than a plastic plug, so if there are any vibrations (never happen on a Voodoo engine, right?) the metal plug will exert more force against the pan fitting than a plastic plug.

I would stick with the plastic plug myself. From my experience they work great. I had quite a few oil changes on my GT350 and I never replaced the plug.

 

[The Chairman]

The pressure issue is what I was thinking about.

There shouldn’t be any pressure in the oil pan unless both the PCV and the tube on the air filter side (from the driver’s side valve cover) are both blocked. In fact, there should be a slight vacuum in the crankcase caused by the PCV system (if working properly).

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