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What are some common pain points on cars that see track duty?

Hack

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There shouldn’t be any pressure in the oil pan unless both the PCV and the tube on the air filter side (from the driver’s side valve cover) are both blocked. In fact, there should be a slight vacuum in the crankcase caused by the PCV system (if working properly).
That's right. If you have enough blowby to pressurize the crankcase, your air/oil separators will fill quickly and your engine will be down on power.
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pilotgore

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That's right. If you have enough blowby to pressurize the crankcase, your air/oil separators will fill quickly and your engine will be down on power.
I have a passenger side catch can only, and I pulled about 40ml out of it the other day, which is normal for me.
 

Hack

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From everything you have said it seems like your engine health is fine.
 

pilotgore

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Suggest GT500 pan, pickup, and pump as a replacement
Thanks for the suggestion. I’m currently considering selling the 350 on the account of all the failures on track I’ve had. If ford covers the pan under warranty, I’ll stick with factory. If I decide to keep the car and I end up paying for replacement, I’ll definitely replace with the 500 parts.
 

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Jeffwels

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I didn’t see it mentioned here yet, but buy yourself a bottle of mother’s R3 race rubber remover.

these cars are very quick on a road course. You will find yourself getting pointed by often. I was out on the 18/19th and when I was done there was rubber in n the bumper, quarters, along the sides, windshield, hood, etc. That stuff gets everywhere and the mother’s product is magic plus being safe for PPF and the vinyl stripes.
 

Sivi70980

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Read half the title and was ready to start complaining about my aging body. Carry on, race guys!
 
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StangersInTheNight

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I've only had my R out once, but my one simple suggestion so far - If you haven't already, replace the OEM lug nuts with one-piece units. Those crappy chrome jackets get warped and a torque wrench won't go on right.
 

GTP

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I've only had my R out once, but my one simple suggestion so far - If you haven't already, replace the OEM lug nuts with one-piece units. Those crappy chrome jackets get warped and a torque wrench won't go on right.
Those nuts come on R cars?!
 

StangersInTheNight

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Those nuts come on R cars?!
yessir, loads of fun getting 150 ft-lbs on them. After just a couple of swaps, most are still 21mm, but others need 22mm. Got one-piece replacements on the way.
 

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pilotgore

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yessir, loads of fun getting 150 ft-lbs on them. After just a couple of swaps, most are still 21mm, but others need 22mm. Got one-piece replacements on the way.
Interesting. . . Just curious, do you use an impact to remove the lugs? I’ve probably pulled rims +/- 100 times in the 18 months I’ve had the car, and I haven’t had an issue with the lugs yet. I use a breaker bar to break them free, then an impact on the lowest setting to run them the rest of the way off. Same thing in reverse except them I use a torque wrench instead of the breaker bar.

I know tons of other members have had the same issue, so im just curious what method of removal everyone is using.
 
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matthewr87

matthewr87

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Interesting. . . Just curious, do you use an impact to remove the lugs? I’ve probably pulled rims +/- 100 times in the 18 months I’ve had the car, and I haven’t had an issue with the lugs yet. I use a breaker bar to break them free, then an impact on the lowest setting to run them the rest of the way off. Same thing in reverse except them I use a torque wrench instead of the breaker bar.

I know tons of other members have had the same issue, so im just curious what method of removal everyone is using.
I never had an issue with the stock nuts either and my removal/install procedure is the same as yours. However I switched to Gorilla nuts recently for peace of mind. Plus they are nice and smooth and hefty and feel good in the hand.
 

The Chairman

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I've only had my R out once, but my one simple suggestion so far - If you haven't already, replace the OEM lug nuts with one-piece units. Those crappy chrome jackets get warped and a torque wrench won't go on right.
All Ford & Lincoln vehicles come with those capped lug nuts. Both my Navigator and the wife’s Nautilus have them too. All in the dumpster.
 

StangersInTheNight

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Interesting. . . Just curious, do you use an impact to remove the lugs? I’ve probably pulled rims +/- 100 times in the 18 months I’ve had the car, and I haven’t had an issue with the lugs yet. I use a breaker bar to break them free, then an impact on the lowest setting to run them the rest of the way off. Same thing in reverse except them I use a torque wrench instead of the breaker bar.

I know tons of other members have had the same issue, so im just curious what method of removal everyone is using.
Personally, I do exactly the same thing, even bought a new, longer and beefier breaker bar after I saw the 150 ft-lb spec. But I'm the 2nd owner of the R. There were already a couple that I had to use 22mm on, and many had some degree of tool marks and deformation. One in particular, I could get the 21mm on, but not all the way in and when I tried to torque it, I could feel it squish and I had to use a 22mm after that. When I bought it, the dealer (wasn't a Ford dealer) agreed to replace the original tires, and may have used an impact too aggressively or a 22mm and buggered them.

Ironically, I had a Dodge RAM and went through exactly the same problem with it. That one was definitely caused by a shop with an impact doing a tire rotation. Ended up buying a set of one-piece lugs for it, too.
 

Cobra Jet

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Interesting thread wit some really good responses.

It’s been discussed and a known pain point on this site that the S550 factory hub bearings are garbage. This is from the initial S550 rollout in 2015 up through as current as the past 2-3 years of production. Some M6G members have spoke of having hub bearings replaced 1, 2, and even 3x under warranty. Even with that said, the interval for replacement is all over the place with M6G members having to replace within 2k-5k miles, to being within 15k, or even approaching 20k-30k…

With that said - do any of you who track more than 50% of vehicle ownership use Ford replacement hubs (Motorcraft or Ford Performance), or are your sourcing Non-Ford parts for replacement?

Has anyone confirmed which brand (manufacturer) Ford sourced for the factory hub bearings - is it SKF, TIMKEN, NSK, Delco, MOOG, FAG, Crown, FSK, KOYO, NTN, IKF or . . .?

Usually on the back side of the hub, the bearing race will have the manufacturer name or initials stamped into it.
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