Studs/hubs, spacers, and lug nuts - questions

[ChipG]

I'm ordering my new summer wheels, which will be rotatable. To support them, I need longer studs, spacers, and new lug nuts. I'm looking for input on options.

Spacers - I need 35mm. I'm looking at these from OP Mustang. Eibach has some as well a bit cheaper (I'd knock the studs out and bolt through). Thoughts, other options?

For longer studs, I think I'll need R length to account for the 35mm spacers. Thoughts on using these from OP Mustang in the stock hubs vs buying HUB-299 OEM GT350R hubs as assemblies, or other options?

Lug nuts are another question. I'll be using stock wheels in the winter, so there will be a lot more stud exposed vs stock. The OP studs come with open lug nuts, which would work, but not sure about the aesthetics of that much exposed stud poking through. Anybody running a second set of closed lug nuts on top for aesthetics? Anybody got photos of R-length studs in GT350 (or similar) wheels with no spacer or thick pad? For the rear wheels, I don't believe I need to change anything, but would mirror the front setup to match.

Thanks for any input.

-Chip

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[svttim]

I'm ordering my new summer wheels, which will be rotatable. To support them, I need longer studs, spacers, and new lug nuts. I'm looking for input on options.

Spacers - I need 35mm. I'm looking at these from OP Mustang. Eibach has some as well a bit cheaper (I'd knock the studs out and bolt through). Thoughts, other options?

For longer studs, I think I'll need R length to account for the 35mm spacers. Thoughts on using these from OP Mustang in the stock hubs vs buying HUB-299 OEM GT350R hubs as assemblies, or other options?

Lug nuts are another question. I'll be using stock wheels in the winter, so there will be a lot more stud exposed vs stock. The OP studs come with open lug nuts, which would work, but not sure about the aesthetics of that much exposed stud poking through. Anybody running a second set of closed lug nuts on top for aesthetics? Anybody got photos of R-length studs in GT350 (or similar) wheels with no spacer or thick pad? For the rear wheels, I don't believe I need to change anything, but would mirror the front setup to match.

Thanks for any input.

-Chip

Dont look for the cheapest spacer. I would contact KOHR for information and pricing.

 

[ChipG]

Not my intent, certainly. I don't see spacers on their site but I dropped them a line.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I have a GT, but...

The OPMustang spacers work well. I have the 25mm spacers which I ran for over a year and just changed to the 31mm. Fit is precise, and I've never had an issue. Initially if your hubs centering rings are corroded, you'll need a pry tool to get them off for the first couple of uses, after that they should go on and off securely without too much drama.

The studs are really easy to replace yourself. I did the GT4 type from OPMustang because its all I needed length-wise, and a couple of quick whacks with a small sledge and the stock studs should pop right out of the front hubs. I used a bearing type stud install tool off amazon which made installing very easy. I thought it was going to be somewhat more annoying, but it was a very easy job in the end.

For lug nuts, IDK. This is what those GT4 studs look like poking well out of my street wheels (with a small 5mm spacer in there). They don't seem to corrode exposed like that (at least in Texas). The ARP studs I ran before were also fine exposed to the elements.

 

[honeybadger]

The opmustang stuff is good. I use Tim’s stuff on my own car - I recommend his spacers and studs wholeheartedly.

I’ve done both new studs in existing hubs as well as bought 4 new hubs from Tim with the bigger studs. Both are fine. IMHO, it comes down to whether or not you have a press to do the studs right on your own/if you want an extra set of hubs (I keep an extra set around).

For the lugs, I also use a set of OP Mustang black lugs. Light, simple and durable. ‘Nuff said

 

[ChipG]

The opmustang stuff is good. I use Tim’s stuff on my own car - I recommend his spacers and studs wholeheartedly.

I’ve done both new studs in existing hubs as well as bought 4 new hubs from Tim with the bigger studs. Both are fine. IMHO, it comes down to whether or not you have a press to do the studs right on your own/if you want an extra set of hubs (I keep an extra set around).

For the lugs, I also use a set of OP Mustang black lugs. Light, simple and durable. ‘Nuff said

Good stuff, thanks.

I had understood, with regard to the studs, that I could tap out existing studs with a BFH, then use a spacer or washers or something to pull the new studs into the hub by tightening a lug nut and guiding it in.

-Chip

 

[honeybadger]

Good stuff, thanks.

I had understood, with regard to the studs, that I could tap out existing studs with a BFH, then use a spacer or washers or something to pull the new studs into the hub by tightening a lug nut and guiding it in.

-Chip

I personally wouldn't do it that way. That puts a decent amount of stress on the threads and can cause issues. For a car this heavy, not a risk I'm personally willing to take. I think you'll also find the OEM studs will be hard to get out with a hammer without some heat.

 

[ChipG]

I personally wouldn't do it that way. That puts a decent amount of stress on the threads and can cause issues. For a car this heavy, not a risk I'm personally willing to take. I think you'll also find the OEM studs will be hard to get out with a hammer without some heat.

Good points.

I don't know that I need an extra set of hubs at this point. Looks like picking up a shop press is pretty cheap and studs + shop press is still a good deal less than a new set of hubs + race studs, plus I get a new tool

 

[honeybadger]

Good points.

I don't know that I need an extra set of hubs at this point. Looks like picking up a shop press is pretty cheap and studs + shop press is still a good deal less than a new set of hubs + race studs, plus I get a new tool

I did the same thing and picked up a cheap hydraulic press. I've used it many times since then!

 

[NightmareMoon]

It certain

I personally wouldn't do it that way. That puts a decent amount of stress on the threads and can cause issues. For a car this heavy, not a risk I'm personally willing to take. I think you'll also find the OEM studs will be hard to get out with a hammer without some heat.

Well I certainly didn't have any trouble removing ARP studs (which have an oversized knurl) with a hammer, and didn't need any heat at all. They didn't take that that much force to move. I actually tested this on a couple of worn out rear hubs that I hadn't thrown out yet which had stock studs before attempting it on the car. Studs are designed to go in and come out.

They sell bearing stud install tools, which will turn a lot easier than a washers and help keep the torque needed low. That's what I used. IIRC I think its less torque to pull the studs into place than the 150ft/lbs speced for the wheels, so I don't think you're going to screw up any threads either if you use a bearing.

 

[svttim]

It certain


Well I certainly didn't have any trouble removing ARP studs (which have an oversized knurl) with a hammer, and didn't need any heat at all. They didn't take that that much force to move. I actually tested this on a couple of worn out rear hubs that I hadn't thrown out yet which had stock studs before attempting it on the car. Studs are designed to go in and come out.

They sell bearing stud install tools, which will turn a lot easier than a washers and help keep the torque needed low. That's what I used. IIRC I think its less torque to pull the studs into place than the 150ft/lbs speced for the wheels, so I don't think you're going to screw up any threads either if you use a bearing.

I have done what you are suggesting. No issue with using the BFH to remove studs but, HB is correct. You really should not pull the new studs in. It will stretch them. Don it myself but I still dont recommend

 

[SchnellGT350]

Heads up... OP Mustang has more R Front Studs and Hubs in stock. Just placed an order this AM. Not many there so if you need them I'd get on it!

 

[brokenblinker]

I have done what you are suggesting. No issue with using the BFH to remove studs but, HB is correct. You really should not pull the new studs in. It will stretch them. Don it myself but I still dont recommend

IIRC I think its less torque to pull the studs into place than the 150ft/lbs speced for the wheels, so I don't think you're going to screw up any threads either if you use a bearing.

Not disagreeing because these topics are new to me and I'm learning...but if the torque to pull the studs into place is less than the spec for tightening the wheels....how does it stretch them?

 

[NGOT8R]

I am in the process of completing a stud swap. I used my shop press to press the factory studs out of the hubs. I will also use the press to install the new ones (once I finally get them).

 

[Epiphany]

I think its less torque to pull the studs into place than the 150ft/lbs speced for the wheels, so I don't think you're going to screw up any threads either if you use a bearing.

I was going to make a similar comment. I use a press to install studs as it is the best method. But you are right, if the maximum torque figure it takes to install the studs via the "pull through" method is less than the manufacturers recommended max torque figure you'll be just fine. I'd highly recommend using something like ARP's thread lubricant on both the stud knurls as well as the stud threads to keep friction to a minimum. You don't want the studs to yield, go plastic, and be on the verge of failure. Kind of counter productive to kill a stud before it ever even gets used.

I'm not a fan of the "BFH" method to remove studs. Again, a press is optimum. The problem with whacking them out is the unnecessary shock load to the bearings which is not in the same plane as what they see during road or track use. You are imparting a rather large force perpendicular to the intended load they would normally see, which is much more radial. If the flange of the hub was supported while doing this it wouldn't be an issue. You could always fabricate something to fill the void if you had to. Can you get the job done by beating the studs out of the hub? Certainly. Is it a good way to do it? No.

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