Let’s talk wheels..

[Norm Peterson]

It may not be that much of a disadvantage to lose 4-wheel rotation schemes - side to side evens things out fairly well for tires that see track time (where the corners in one direction tend to beat up on the tires on one side more than corners in the other direction beat up on the other side's tires).

Toward mid-life you could do a front tires to rear wheels/rear tires to front wheels remount and rebalance. I'm not sure how - or if - having IRS would affect this.

11" should give you a little more actual cornering performance and definitely better feel/precision. May want slightly firmer roll control (think 'operational camber' here) for best results.


Norm

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[NightmareMoon]

What tire? If you intend to run a 295, the 11” wheel would be the better choice.

A 10” ET40 with a 285 is a very tight fit, I’m not sure if every 295 would fit without spacers.

I don’t see the logic in running different offsets when a 25mm slip on spacer over extended studs gets you there and allows for rotation. It seems like its doing it the easy way, but actually I think you’re swimming upstream.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Slip on spacers are not the same as bolt on spacers. Plenty of dedicated race teams use slip on spacers (like 2" in some cases) and they're pretty bulletproof with good studs. Anyway, if you've got a good hookup for rotating tires every now and then that does work fine. The physical offsets and wear on the hubs is no different if you have an et26 or an et51 with a 25mm slip on spacer. The hub can't tell the difference.

Anyway, which tire are you going to run?

 

[TeeLew]

Slip on spacers are not the same as bolt on spacers. Plenty of dedicated race teams use slip on spacers (like 2" in some cases) and they're pretty bulletproof with good studs.

It's important to have the spacers which actually locate radially on the hub and then locates the wheel the same way, but with good extended studs (I use ARP's, but the others you mentioned look nice) these are as safe as the wheel itself. For the record, I use Eibach 'bolt-on' spacers with the the studs knocked out of the spacers.

 

[NightmareMoon]

It's important to have the spacers which actually locate radially on the hub and then locates the wheel the same way, but with good extended studs (I use ARP's, but the others you mentioned look nice) these are as safe as the wheel itself. For the record, I use Eibach 'bolt-on' spacers with the the studs knocked out of the spacers.

Yeah the OP Mustang spacers I use have to be pried off with a screwdriver if your hubs are even a little rusty, at least when they’re new, they’re a perfect fit. Big centering rings for the wheels to seat to as well. I’ve bever heard of anyone reusing a bolt ol spacer without the bolts. You don’t do anything the normal way do you? Should rename your profile “mavrick”

 

[Bridgie]

Decision made.
New hubs and OP Stang extended GT4 studs on way, with OP 20 mm spacers up front.
Going for squared Apex EC7 wheels 18x11’s et52, to run Toyo RR”s 295”s when both are back in stock (mid- May) fingers crossed.
I’ll fit and check the ride height, stance and clearance with the smaller diameter but wider tires... Then make coilover and camber adjustments.

Next track day is with NASA at Road Atlanta early June, so timing is tight.
If anyone hears of used wheels coming up for sale, please point them in my direction.

 

[o-man]

Are you wanting to stay 18"?

 

[Bridgie]

Are you wanting to stay 18"?

Moving to 18’s from 19’s. I have 285 using 19’s now and experienced rub inside, outside and within the fender liner. Car isn’t that low, but the whole combination caused me to reconsider.

 

[NotagainV2]

GY supercar 3R then 285/35/19. Buy thru USAA for 25-30% off.

If you're a track guy then you're going to have to buy 18" wheels or go 19x11" sooner or later I suspect. Not to say you can't fully enjoy the car on 19x10's... I mean, if an instructor can lap 2-3 seconds faster than you on aged out 285's, it's clearly a skills problem, not an equipment one.

What coil-overs are you using?
I have some modestly used 295 Michelin supersports I'd like to get rid of. And a set of NIB 20x11et50 you can use extended studs and spacers on. GoodYear has very good coverage in the 20" size.

Whaaaaaaaat?!! Discount thru USAA do tell or please PM about this magic!!

 

[PaddyPrix]

If anyone hears of used wheels coming up for sale, please point them in my direction.

That's the best part, practically every racing team in IMSA will sell you their Pirelli slicks, where the going rate is $100-125/tire. Figure in another 50 (25/shipping, 25/mount+balance) and then hope you can get 3 track days out of them to stay ahead of a $400 tire that gets you 6. Those slicks are almost always 315/30-18, so get some spacers to push them out 27mm or so, and get a spare 5mm plate just in case the tire you run is wide and kissing things. Would suck to have to go back to the tire store, beg for tires on short notice, mount and balance those... vs just toss on some plates and go have fun.

 

[shogun32]

Whaaaaaaaat?!! Discount thru USAA do tell or please PM about this magic!!

well assuming you're an USAA member log in and then do a member benefits search for tires and you'll find the GOodyear link, click that and your discounts will be transparently applied. My set of 305/30/19 3R's was $1100 mounted, when I bought them.

 

[TeeLew]

You don’t do anything the normal way do you? Should rename your profile “mavrick”

It's often budget driven (in this case, I picked them up cheap, NIB), but I've made a decent career of doing things unusually.

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