MT82 Grind!

[ObnoxiousGt]

So, my transmission clutch disc gave. and I took the opportunity upgrade a few things.
-McCloud Rst Clutch kit (rated at 800hp)
-McCloud Flywheel
-New pilot bearing
-New Exedy throwout bearing
-New Steel braided line
With all of this, I thought my problem would have been fixed. But now, I get a grind going into 3rd gear only. and my clutch feels soft; like when the pedal is up, it's not fully engaged...
Just wanted to know has any one dealt with this issue? How did you solve the problem?
-Car is a 87k miles
-No warranty

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[Shifting_Gears]

First guess is there’s air in the clutch line and you’re not getting full engagement.

 

[ObnoxiousGt]

First guess is there’s air in the clutch line and you’re not getting full engagement.

Thanks, I'll definitely try bleeding the system. Because I only pumped the clutch until it returned to its standard position.

 

[77Highboy77]

It's going to take a while to get all the air out of the line, took mine like a month to finally get all the air out after I installed the braided line.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Thanks, I'll definitely try bleeding the system. Because I only pumped the clutch until it returned to its standard position.

Look into a power bleeder if you don’t have one.

It’s LIGHTLY pressurizes the line and forces the fluid and air out. Motive makes one. It’s very important not to over pressurize. But it turns it into a one person job.

 

[Elp_jc]

Look into a power bleeder if you don’t have one.

But WHERE does the air get out if there's no bleeding valve down there??? First time I ever hear of a freaking slave without a bleeding nipple. At least when you get the tranny out you can get a remote bleeder. But without a valve, how the hell do you ever bleed the clutch line? Moisture on the brake fluid eventually would rust the slave, without proper bleeding. That's so stupid.

 

[ice445]

But WHERE does the air get out if there's no bleeding valve down there??? First time I ever hear of a freaking slave without a bleeding nipple. At least when you get the tranny out you can get a remote bleeder. But without a valve, how the hell do you ever bleed the clutch line? Moisture on the brake fluid eventually would rust the slave, without proper bleeding. That's so stupid.

Most modern hydraulic clutches have no bleed port. This is because power bleeders solve the need for one, and the extra 5 cents can then be used elsewhere. It sucks for DIY though. It basically just forces any air up into the master cylinder. I don't entirely understand the physics behind it, but that's what I've been told at least.

 

[Elp_jc]

Most modern hydraulic clutches have no bleed port. This is because power bleeders solve the need for one

Well, this is my first manual car without one. My M3 V8 had one, my 2 Vettes and GTO as well. They just didn't have a remote line, but there was a bleed valve you could actually use at the transmission housing... but it was VERY difficult to use. At any rate, I see the logic to get rid of air in the lines with a pressure bleeder (kind of makes sense), but you CANNOT bleed the line that way. Old fluid is always going to stay down there; that's why you need a bleed valve. I guess disconnecting the transmission coupler and letting the line bleed by gravity could work up to that point (making a mess, of course), but not after that, so slave will always have old fluid. Not good.

But going back to the power bleeder, have you seen how flimsy the clutch line is held to the brake fluid reservoir? Mine was leaking when I bought the car, and had zero pressure there. Pushed it in, and secured it with a zip-tie to prevent it from eventually becoming detached (Iike it has happened), becuase it's too damn short. But I still bet if you add any pressure, it'd leak. I've always bleed my brakes with vacuum because it's safer, but guess I'd probably have to buy a pressure bleeder if I ever have issues with air in the system with this damn clutch. And I don't like that old fluid will stay forever in the slave; never good.

 

[Rapid Red]

You do not need a power bleeder..

 

[ObnoxiousGt]

Look into a power bleeder if you don’t have one.

It’s LIGHTLY pressurizes the line and forces the fluid and air out. Motive makes one. It’s very important not to over pressurize. But it turns it into a one person job.

So, my transmission clutch disc gave. and I took the opportunity upgrade a few things.
-McCloud Rst Clutch kit (rated at 800hp)
-McCloud Flywheel
-New pilot bearing
-New Exedy throwout bearing
-New Steel braided line
With all of this, I thought my problem would have been fixed. But now, I get a grind going into 3rd gear only. and my clutch feels soft; like when the pedal is up, it's not fully engaged...
Just wanted to know has any one dealt with this issue? How did you solve the problem?
-Car is a 87k miles
-No warranty

UPDATE: I did try power bleeding the system a few days ago, and the problem is still there.
Things others said solved this issue for them. That I may try:
-remove clutch spring
-install upgraded clutch spring(steeda)
- aftermarket short throw shifter (barton)
-Just take my persistent axx to the dealer, and let them bankrupt me.lol

 

[aleccolin]

Removing the clutch pedal assist spring will make the pedal effort higher, but nothing else. Same with replacing it with the lighter Steeda assist spring.

Did you get the standard length hydraulic release bearing from Exedy? Part number is BRG0186. They make a short body GT500 version as well.

The OE throwout bearing is a constant-contact style, meaning there is no clutch return spring, the force to return the pedal to the top of its stroke is provided by clutch diaphragm spring pushing against the HRB. If there is air in the system, the OE clutch pedal assist spring may provide enough force to compress the bubbles and keep the pedal from returning, but removing that assist spring isn't solving the problem.

(Edit: The clutch assist spring does seem to have a slight over-center effect at the top of the travel, meaning it does act to hold the clutch pedal against the upper stop. Removing it might allow the pedal to droop slightly)

An old biker trick when dealing with a front brake that's hard to bleed is to zip tie the brake lever as tight as you can get it and just leave it overnight. The theory is the bubbles will rise faster with the increased, sustained pressure. It seems like it shouldn't work but I've use it several times.

Block your clutch pedal to the floor and leave it overnight, see if that helps to get it bled quicker. Set your parking brake first.

All that said, a gear specific issue may mean a damaged synchro, and have nothing to do with the clutch.

 

[ObnoxiousGt]

Removing the clutch pedal assist spring will make the pedal effort higher, but nothing else. Same with replacing it with the lighter Steeda assist spring.

Did you get the standard length hydraulic release bearing from Exedy? Part number is BRG0186. They make a short body GT500 version as well.

The OE throwout bearing is a constant-contact style, meaning there is no clutch return spring, the force to return the pedal to the top of its stroke is provided by clutch diaphragm spring pushing against the HRB. If there is air in the system, the OE clutch pedal assist spring may provide enough force to compress the bubbles and keep the pedal from returning, but removing that assist spring isn't solving the problem.

(Edit: The clutch assist spring does seem to have a slight over-center effect at the top of the travel, meaning it does act to hold the clutch pedal against the upper stop. Removing it might allow the pedal to droop slightly)

An old biker trick when dealing with a front brake that's hard to bleed is to zip tie the brake lever as tight as you can get it and just leave it overnight. The theory is the bubbles will rise faster with the increased, sustained pressure. It seems like it shouldn't work but I've use it several times.

Block your clutch pedal to the floor and leave it overnight, see if that helps to get it bled quicker. Set your parking brake first.

All that said, a gear specific issue may mean a damaged synchro, and have nothing to do with the clutch.

That part number does match the one I installed. And do you feel the short throw shifter assembly would affect this gear specific issue? I feel that , or the synchro could be the issue.

 

[Elp_jc]

You do not need a power bleeder.

Good to hear; thank you. Looks like just depressing the clutch pedal does the trick, so no need to ever buy a power bleeded (nice ). Wish there was another trick to actually bleed the damn thing on this car. Ha ha. Oh well.

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