First track day...brake question

[Tomster]

The general advice is to replace fluid that is >6 months old before going on track. Factory fluid is totally fine, but yours is old (i.e., the age is the issue, not the compound). That said, you will be fine if you don't have time to flush it before the event. Just be aware and if you get any softness in the pedal AT ALL, coast a few straights to cool off.

^^^ Yes, if the OP is at 9600 miles, I'd flush the entire system and replace with a race fluid. There is probably no need to spend the big bucks on the SRF, but maybe something better than plain old DOT4 would be better (while you are at it).

Have fun OP

Edited to add:
OEM pads are great. The only complaint from many is they dust pretty bad. I use them on the track, they do wear faster but the initial bite and lack of fade are predicable and reliable

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[torque124]

Well I tossed the stock pads. Should I buy some track pads for this and next month or just run the Z26 and be careful?

I would just take it easy and learn the track; no need to brake in the last possible 50 feet. Keep them, just get a set of stockies for next run ... But that's just me...

 

[Vettel-ish]

^^^ Yes, if the OP is at 9600 miles, I'd flush the entire system and replace with a race fluid. There is probably no need to spend the big bucks on the SRF, but maybe something better than plain old DOT4 would be better (while you are at it).

Have fun OP

Edited to add:
OEM pads are great. The only complaint from many is they dust pretty bad. I use them on the track, they do wear faster but the initial bite and lack of fade are predicable and reliable

I have some Amsoil dot 4 incoming. Will that work?

 

[Vettel-ish]

I would just take it easy and learn the track; no need to brake in the last possible 50 feet. Keep them, just get a set of stockies for next run ... But that's just me...

I dont see me being senna day 1. The track has 2 big braking zones. I will take it easy and enjoy the deal. Learn the lines and have fun.

 

[torque124]

I have some Amsoil dot 4 incoming. Will that work?

The ultimate racing fluid would be Castrol SRF, but I always used Motul RBF600 (I used to race a bike when I was younger and stupid). Check out the boiling points, the Motul is higher even than the Amsoil; and more importantly Motul will post the "wet boiling point". That is the point where fluid which has already absorbed some moisture starts to boil.
I always look at boiling point when I check out a fluid. For street, everything fresh works, but not for track. But that Amsoil is quality stuff, should do. I just think that for the quality that you get for money, Motul can't be beaten. Don't use the Motul RBF660, that is a 5.1 specification, and it could affect rubber seals in some systems... That's what I was told .

Motul RBF600 factory line:
https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.n.../RBF_600_Factory_Line__28GB_29.pdf?1492016152


Amsoil dot 4:
https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/msds/bfr.pdf

 

[Venom52]

Here's what i use RBF660 Factory line
https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/rbf-660-factory-line

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

I have some Amsoil dot 4 incoming. Will that work?

I found this on a NASA site:

 

[Vettel-ish]

Amsoil is 584

 

[torque124]

I found this on a NASA site:

As I said, check wet boiling point, which is the more realistic... RBF600 is the strongest apart from Castrol SRF. Dry boiling point is when the fluid is new taking out of the box, not mixed with anything, never overheated. Reality is that brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water from the air all the time it has contact with it...

 

[nordique14]

I use Ferodo Super Formula. Very high dry boiling point of 626F. Wet is 392F. Price is about $24 for 500ml

 

[oldbmwfan]

If the fluid is fresh, dry boiling point is the relevant number.

I have also stuck with stock pads on the track. They work great. The downside is rapid wear (and dust); upside is they are cheap, they are really friendly on the rotors (and the rotors are far more expensive), and they are readily available. I would much rather burn through pads quickly than chew up rotors quickly. They repeatedly engage ABS even at 140+ mph in the dry, even at the end of a long session. If you aren't primarily using the car on the track, no need to use true race pads IMO.

As for fluid, as a new track driver, you won't need to worry about the marginal difference between a 580F and 600 or 612F boiling point.

 

[Byronj]

Is there a good set of instructions on how to perform the fluid change on these cars? I've seen a couple of Youtube videos but I am not sure whether they are following the proper procedure.

 

[Byronj]

I back what Honeybadger and Flyhalf said. Both of these guys are my friend and they do know what they are talking about.

 

[svttim]

Well I tossed the stock pads. Should I buy some track pads for this and next month or just run the Z26 and be careful?

Call Full Tilt Boogie and see if they have some Hawk pads available

 

[svttim]

Stock fluid is fine for 1-2 events assuming you haven't over-heated it before. You can literally roll this car off a showroom and go straight to the track. Just keep an eye on the brakes. Given that you're running non-OEM pads and this is your day on track in this car, just be smart in the braking zones, try not to ride them, and you'll be in good shape.

Remember, smooth is fast!

I knew I was forgetting Something

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