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5.4 stroker coyote ?

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olaosunt

olaosunt

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Ouch. 16x 27 dollar rod bolts in sickening.

Will the coyote rods not work?
I was just looking at options for another build (FP) - I have another set of Voodoo pistons(hung on stock rods )and a voodoo crank so considering it so I have a spare for my GT 350 (with a predator block )
Also have a voodoo engine (never run ) I was considering sending to same builder for a rod/valve spring upgrade and head studs .
...with my luck you can never have too may spares ..... . Since I got my GT 350 with rebuilt engine on the road again I am in love with the voodoo engine .


I already have the 2 sets of Manley H beams /ARP 2000 .
One for this CP build and another set for one of the FP builds so I need a third set

Manley makes them specific for the voodoo pistons as the small end has to be tapered .
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olaosunt

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As you of course know those 5.2 heads are expensive and breaking a snout doesn’t make them happy.
Gotcha . Lol
I have a set with scarred cam journals lying around I may try and fix . The set that was on the car that broke the crank actually look okay apart from a few busted rocker arms .

The CP build is going in my 18 with DI heads .... they are a little cheaper too.
I am leaning towards that 5.2 crank at this point .
What’s another $650 (if I get them for $1060).? Lol

I have saved a bit on the whole build(got a deal on pistons /rods )so I could put the saving towards the crank .
Even with the crank .I will still be just about $5K all in .
Not bad for a true ” 5.2 “ high compression predator block .
 

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I just pulled the trigger on some drop in Mahle forged pistons for the Gen 3 and the Manley H Tuff rods rated at 1200+ HP.

Sport compact warehouse has 10% off the whole site. Pistons were $668 and rods $750! No tax and free shipping.

Block delivers Wednesday... im stoked to get my build going.



coyote-gen-3.webp
 

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olaosunt

olaosunt

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Obviously the blending of virtual design and simulation with real-world testing brought out the best in the combination. Engineers opted to utilize fillet-rolled micro-alloy steel crankshafts of the traditional crossplane variety. The micro-alloy offers manufacturing benefits and the fillet rolling helps it shrug off fatigue. However, they didn't just rely on virtual testing to ensure these cranks were strong enough. They pushed them beyond what they would ever see in the real world.

"We basically break cranks to be sure that we understand what the fillet rolling is capable of doing," Patrick said. "This expanded our database. We actually had to go to a steel and fillet-rolling load that was actually beyond anything we've done in the past. We leveraged some of the knowledge from the industry and demonstrated it for ourselves so that we could go to that next level "

http://www.mustangandfords.com/features/built-ford-fast

I would image it’s more of a longevity thing when comparing coyote vs predator crank. The coyote crank would most likely have worked but when warrantying something for 60k miles a failure rate of 1% vs 5% is expensive. It always breaks down to math with any manufacturer on the reliability vs cost.

Engine building is such a rabbit hole when figuring out cost/reliability/horsepower.

Edit
Also crossed my mind that Ford May have also had the aftermarket in mind. I would imagine there will be some 1200-1500hp 500 running around in short order.
I am still not a 100% sure the “fillet rolling “ is a new process and not already applied to the Boss/coyote cranks . The extra stroke is not worth the price increase but if it’s made through a stronger , all new process then I think it’s worth it

Any of the resident experts know for sure ?
 
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olaosunt

olaosunt

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I just pulled the trigger on some drop in Mahle forged pistons for the Gen 3 and the Manley H Tuff rods rated at 1200+ HP.

Sport compact warehouse has 10% off the whole site. Pistons were $668 and rods $750! No tax and free shipping.

Block delivers Wednesday... im stoked to get my build going.



coyote-gen-3.webp
Nice haul !
Just curious if anything happened to your stock engine ?
Mine runs fine except I think it’s down 3.-4 mph at the big end of the track .
I plan to put it in the dyno and then do a compression test but want to be ready with replacement if it’s down .
If it’s not then I will be swapping tuners to see if that’s the issue .
Either way never hurts to keep a spare .
Even nicer to swap the OEM and build it before it’s in pieces .lol
 

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Nice haul !
Just curious if anything happened to your stock engine ?
Mine runs fine except I think it’s down 3.-4 mph at the big end of the track .
I plan to put it in the dyno and then do a compression test but want to be ready with replacement if it’s down .
If it’s not then I will be swapping tuners to see if that’s the issue .
Either way never hurts to keep a spare .
Even nicer to swap the OEM and build it before it’s in pieces .lol
Oh yeah brotha mine exited stage left in dramatic fashion!

My fault really, I was showing off for a buddy on about 15 psi with less than 1/4 tank of fuel.

Went lean and munched #3 piston.

Moral of story... DO NOT beat on your car with any less than 1/2 tank!



87-E7486-F-0-BB3-4808-A771-C093898440-AA.webp


9-EFCD1-B6-9-A4-C-4-DA0-B6-CF-11-CBA8-CBC4-D9.webp
 

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Pistons are the weak link on these cars (as we know)...

If you’re down MPH with no other changes she might have hurt ring lands ....

Compression check should answer some questions
 
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Pistons are the weak link on these cars (as we know)...

If you’re down MPH with no other changes she might have hurt ring lands ....

Compression check should answer some questions
Sorry to hear about your old motor but you got a great reason to go stronger ..
Lol

I think I may have had a dog from the factory .
Best I could get ever get NA was 120@ 118.
I thought it ran decent with the whipple tune as it went 10.2@138 with 3.625 /boostane.

When I switched to aftermarket tuner /E85 it made decent power in the dyno -mid 800’s with the 3.625 pulley but it never translated to the track .
It took a 3.25 pulley just to run 9.9 @140 on race gas in the summer.
It did pick up a bit with the switch to E85 and went a best of 9.7 but was still down on the back half only picking up 27-28 versus everyone else’s 30-32.
Even in decent DA it never went faster than 143 mph (should have been 147-148 mph ).
I know my car is heavy (Premium PP) and the magnaflow resonated X pipe may be restrictive, but I am not sure it can account for it being down so much .
I will be pleasantly surprised if I found it compression is good and if so will definitely be trying another tuner .
Builder should have all the parts for the build by midweek so my “back up” 5.2 short block may be ready by the end of the week too.
 

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gimmie11s

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Sorry to hear about your old motor but you got a great reason to go stronger ..
Lol

I think I may have had a dog from the factory .
Best I could get ever get NA was 120@ 118.
I thought it ran decent with the whipple tune as it went 10.2@138 with 3.625 /boostane.

When I switched to aftermarket tuner /E85 it made decent power in the dyno -mid 800’s with the 3.625 pulley but it never translated to the track .
It took a 3.25 pulley just to run 9.9 @140 on race gas in the summer.
It did pick up a bit with the switch to E85 and went a best of 9.7 but was still down on the back half only picking up 27-28 versus everyone else’s 30-32.
Even in decent DA it never went faster than 143 mph (should have been 147-148 mph ).
I know my car is heavy (Premium PP) and the magnaflow resonated X pipe may be restrictive, but I am not sure it can account for it being down so much .
I will be pleasantly surprised if I found it compression is good and if so will definitely be trying another tuner .
Builder should have all the parts for the build by midweek so my “back up” 5.2 short block may be ready by the end of the week too.

Interesting... idk. My cars never run as hard as everyone else’s either. Doesn’t help that my local track prep truly sucks and DA is never favorable here.

My best mph NA was 121-122.... that was with e85 tune and cats removed but stock exhaust manifolds. Guys on the east coast were running that stock lol.
 

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I had been wondering about the wrist pin location and whether or not any of these strokers would allow enough room for adequate ring land thickness. I’ve broken many SBC pistons in super/turbocharged engines due to narrow ring lands. I think I got my answer. Apparently way back in 2005, ford released a crate engine 5.0 that used a 3.70” bore (10 years before a 3.7” bore showed up in the production gt350) and the 4.6L crank. At that time, a 5.3 version of the same engine was built for competition using the same 3.70” bore with a 3.75” stroke. I believe they used a 5.85” rod rather than the 4.6/5.0/5.2 5.933” rod. That 0.083” shorter rod gives you the ability to run a 0.166” longer stroke using the same piston dimensions as stock. The rod/stroke ratio isn’t as good, but it’s still better than a 5.7” rod 383 Chevy. Technically, using the 5.85” rod would allow you to run up to 3.827” stroke and still have the stock ring groove/wrist pin location and dimensions, while still maintaining an acceptable rod/stroke ratio.
 

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My question is how much of the lower pistons skirt would be out of the block at bottom dead center on a stroked Coyote? As more skirt "sticks" out of the bore, the more the piston can tilt/rock = more wear and friction. Skirt support is critical for any engine, and this is especially so in a stroked motor.

5.5 Coyote, heck yea', I'm all for extra cubes, nothing like more torque.

I have a very low mileage complete 2019 5.0 Coyote I am gong to build, so I'm very interested in more cubes.
 
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My question is how much of the lower pistons skirt would be out of the block at bottom dead center on a stroked Coyote? As more skirt "sticks" out of the bore, the more the piston can tilt/rock = more wear and friction. Skirt support is critical for any engine, and this is especially so in a stroked motor.

5.5 Coyote, heck yea', I'm all for extra cubes, nothing like more torque.

I have a very low mileage complete 2019 5.0 Coyote I am gong to build, so I'm very interested in more cubes.
Nice !
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