Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Emilbadal]

@Cathul as you might have seen in my previous posts, I don't have any ground issues( the readings are ideal "0.00"), and my gains are set to Minimum. I might be more sensitive to these noises or my ears might have hissing in them, but I have confirmed the noise with other individuals. Or it might be my amp. The hissing that I'm talking about is very faint but it's there nonetheless.

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[trkpny]

I had my GT 350 in the stereo shop yesterday to upgrade my head unit from the 4" to a double din. The shop told me that they couldn't get the Scosche or the Metra kit to work. They claimed it was because of the Launch Control and the Traction Control not working with the kits. The thing is, I have seen a video on Youtube of an install in my exact car that worked. ('17 GT350). So my question is this: has anyone here successfully installed one of those kits? And did the LC and Traction Control work afterward?

 

[law242]

Has anyone documented the part numbers for the varying speakers in the different trims? I have had my door card off 3 times now due to not being sure if my 6.5 speaker was blown on my 200a package but I never wrote down the part number for replacement. Was wondering if anyone knew so I could order a replacement and just remove the door card one more time.

 

[RubberyDuck]

Ok, so I'm looking for someone to confirm my assumptions below.

I am going to install a Rockford Fosgate DSR1, with Maestro cable etc etc. I'll source one somehow...

Am I correct in assuming that the following amps will work with the signal prepared by the DSR1?
https://www.audison.eu/products/ap1-d/
https://www.audison.eu/products/ap4-d/

They are officially designed to follow one of Audison's amps with a built in DSP, but as far as I can tell, there's no reason why that's neccessary, as long as they receive a prepared signal. Could someone with a larger brain than I have a quick look at them and confirm my thoughts?

 

[Cathul]

They have line level rca in connections and a remote in. So it should work.

 

[UserName]

The hissing that I'm talking about is very faint but it's there nonetheless.

I think that hiss is introduced from the part of the acm that generates the boops and dongs that you hear as warning noises. I can hear it still it in my (except for the deck) aftermarket system and I know it’s not the equipment. The only way I can see getting rid of it is to use a different source. The downside to that is possibly losing hands free options like Bluetooth calls.

Needless to say, I can’t hear that hiss unless the car is on but not running and no audio is playing.

What is the status of your car when you hear the hiss?

 

[Emilbadal]

I think that hiss is introduced from the part of the acm that generates the boops and dongs that you hear as warning noises. I can hear it still it in my (except for the deck) aftermarket system and I know it’s not the equipment. The only way I can see getting rid of it is to use a different source. The downside to that is possibly losing hands free options like Bluetooth calls.

Needless to say, I can’t hear that hiss unless the car is on but not running and no audio is playing.

What is the status of your car when you hear the hiss?

You are right about the chime noises being the source of a portion of the hissing noise. In my brother’s Stock Shaker sound system, that’s exactly why that hissing is so pronounced. however in my case, since I changed all the speakers in my car and also I’m using aftermarket amp connected to the low level line out of ACM, my chime sounds now come from the small speaker behind the gauge cluster.

As I mentioned before, I have two types of hissing. One I can only call as a very faint white noise that is present as soon as I put the ignition into accessory, which I’m pretty sure is because of my amplifier.
The second hissing type is much higher in frequency and that comes on as soon as I start the engine(it’s not buzzing sound and doesn’t change with engine rpm). I haven’t made much progress after my last post. Still my primary suspicion is the fuel pump module under the rear seat. I will post up once I have more info.

Note: I think I heard somewhere that if the ACM doesn’t encounter the stock speaker resistance(if changed), it will transfer the chime notifications to that tiny speaker behind the gauge cluster(safety feature).

 

[Cathul]

Note: I think I heard somewhere that if the ACM doesn’t encounter the stock speaker resistance(if changed), it will transfer the chime notifications to that tiny speaker behind the gauge cluster(safety feature).

Only if you remove the stock DSP/amp entirely or reprogram your car to do exactly this. Then the DSP module is missing on the CAN bus and all chimes automatically routed to the IPC speaker. If you use a T-harness behind the radio and don't remove the stock DSP/amp chimes should be routed to your aftermarket system. At least that's what the chimes do in my car.

 

[RubberyDuck]

Update for those that care. After Cathul's well received comments, I risked divorce and ordered another £800 worth of kit. The full list is as per the below;

Processor: https://rockfordfosgate.com/featured-products/dsr1/
T-Harness: https://maestro.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/817/project/ar
4 Channel Amp:https://www.audison.eu/products/ap4-d/
Mono Amo: https://www.audison.eu/products/ap1-d/
Door Speakers: https://www.audison.eu/products/apk-163/
Rear shelf speakers: https://www.audison.eu/products/apx-6-5/
Subwoofer: https://www.audison.eu/products/aps-8-d/
OBDII: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 (I have not bought this yet, is there a cheaper option?)
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Sound deadener sheets


So my questions is can anyone give me an overview of how to wire all this lot together?
1) Link stock radio, canbus, and DSR1 with T harness (Installing the correct firmware on the DSR1)
2) Use OBD2 reader to disable ANC etc (but NOT line level inputs as my 12 speaker shaker pro is already line level, yes?)
3) How do I connect the DSR1 to the AMPs?
4) How do I connect the speakers to the amps? Can I use the existing speaker wire if I butcher the old post amp connector? Can anyone point me to the most accurate wiring diagram earlier in this thread?
5) Are there any particular points people would recommend I use the sound deadening on? (Known sources of rattle?)
6) Any more advice for the DIY warrior installing this stuff? (Other than "pay someone clever to do it")

And to be clear, my intention is to remove the stock amps entirely. Any problems there?

Also, where does the sub amp get its feed? I assume directly from the radio, but I've not seen it mentioned on the wiring diagrams? Presumably it will now come from DSR1, does that mean running another wire?

 

[Cathul]

1) you plug in the HRN-AR-FO3 cables into the connectors at the stock amplifier (HRN-AR-FO3 has a brown, black and grey connector matching the DSP connectors of the car).
2) yes
3) RCA cables. The DSR1 has 8 channel RCA output. Depending on your specific configuration (done with the Rockford Fosgate App) you have to connect the specified outputs to your amplifiers
4) You have to connect the corresponding HRN-AR-FO3 speaker cables to the speaker wires coming from your aftermarket amplifier.

Best regards,

Peter

 

[RubberyDuck]

1) you plug in the HRN-AR-FO3 cables into the connectors at the stock amplifier (HRN-AR-FO3 has a brown, black and grey connector matching the DSP connectors of the car).
2) yes
3) RCA cables. The DSR1 has 8 channel RCA output. Depending on your specific configuration (done with the Rockford Fosgate App) you have to connect the specified outputs to your amplifiers
4) You have to connect the corresponding HRN-AR-FO3 speaker cables to the speaker wires coming from your aftermarket amplifier.

Best regards,

Peter

Thanks for that.

Regards point 1) "you plug in the HRN-AR-FO3 cables into the connectors at the stock amplifier" - does that mean I have to leave the stock amplifier in place? I thought the HRN-AR-FO3 (& DSR1) allowed me to remove the stock amp?

 

[Cathul]

You unplug the connectors at the stock DSP/amp and remove the amp. Then you connect the HRN-AR-FO3 connectors to the connectors that were connected to the DSP/amp (color coded).

 

[Aussie-up-north]

Just want to confirm, using forscan will set all outputs to Line, not just the sub line out???

Was thinking about just sub amp and new sub?

 

[Emilbadal]

UPDATE: So this morning I tore up the driver side of the interior pulled out the RCAs and just distanced them by 2-3 feets from anything that possibly could induce noise in them and the result was that Nothing Changed. I even tried grounding the negative side of the RCAs but still the hissing noise persisted. Which means that the hissing sounds are basically audio signals from the ACM’s output. The only thing that’s left to do at this point is to reinforce the ACM’s chassis ground and maybe using mu metal tape around the ACM to insulate it from interference noise from outside. If that doesn’t work then it’s what it is and I’ll have to live with it.

Can someone post the line level (4v signal) and removing EQ parameters of ACM Asbuilt data here? ( just want to double check)

Thanks

 

[RubberyDuck]

Hi all. So I'm trying to get my head around the installation of the DS1 and Audison AP4D. I have the car specific iDatalink harness (F03). I'm looking at this diagram, and what I' struggling to understand is why I would need to connect both the stock speakers wires to the amp, and the set of RCAs from the DSR1 to the amp. What would this achieve? Can someone explain it to me?

https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20181126105300/Manuals/794/794HARFO3.PDF

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