Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[RubberyDuck]

You have the base system, is that correct? In this case your current speakers are directly connected to the ACM in the dash.
If you have an existing amp (9-speaker or 12-speaker system) it's a bit more complicated as you then need a T-harness and stuff to prevent cutting the wires behind the radio.

1) if running 4 channel and sub you need two amps... one amp to run the 4 channels (doors and rears) and an amp for the sub. The pioneer should be enough for a smaller subwoofer.
2) yes
3) yes
4) see one. Use the biggest power cable that can fit. Add the fuse inline right behind the battery and run the cable to your amps location. Add a distribution block there and run one wire each from the distribution block to each amp (same for ground, but you don't need to run the ground wire to the battery).
If in doubt go to a local installer and buy the stuff there and let them do the install.

If using all 4 outputs from the ACM as inputs to your 4-channel amp you retain EQ/fader/balance in your system.

I've got the 12 speaker system. What does that change?

I'm aware I'll need two amps. Can I physically remove the existing ones? What's the ACM in this context? The head unit? If I can still use the EQ/Fade/Balance and have crossovers directing frequencies why would I need a DSP?

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[Cathul]

Ok... 12 speaker system.

1) no need to reprogram the ACM for line level output. The ACM in the 12 speaker system with amp in the drivers kick panel already is set to variable line level, so all good here.
1a) remove the equalization in the ACM with ForScan.
2) you need a T-harness (f.e. made from the CARAV 12-240 or from a Metra DSP harness for Ford cars) to add RCA connectors to the 4 output channels. Those channels are not sent to the amp in the drivers kick panel anymore afterwards, as the wires are interrupted then.
3) chimes, balance and fader will still be available if running 4 channels to your amp.
4) physically removing the stock amp leads to DTCs. The amp is connected to the CAN bus in your car, so I wouldn't (and don't have) remove it.
5) disconnect all unneeded speakers (center channel f.e.).
6) run new speaker wires to the passive crossovers and from there to the speakers.

Best solution:
7) all gets a lot easier with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 and the appropriate car specific harness from Maestro (HRN-AR-FO3) and maybe an extension cable if you want to put the DSR1 in the trunk (HRN-AR-EXT2 or EXT4, you still need aftermarket amps and the appropriate wiring). You can remove the stock amp then.
The harness connects to the stock amplifier connectors in the drivers kick panel. You also can use the harness to reuse existing speaker wiring for connecting your aftermarket amp to your new speakers for the front. The harness has loose wire ends pinned to the appropriate connectors for this.
I still would connect the rear speakers and sub with new speaker wires as they are easily reachable in the trunk. This will set you back about 350,-- $, but it's worth it as it's a lot less work in my opinion. The DSR1 even sends the correct CAN bus messages when your stock amp is disconnected, so no DTCs when read out at the dealer. In addition the DSR1 contains a capable DSP which you can use to tune your new system to your liking. It's basically a Maestro amp replacement module and DSP in one tiny box.

I know, it's a lot to digest for now, therefor i still recommend to visit your local installer and tell him what to do and about the options you've read about.

 

[RubberyDuck]

Ok... 12 speaker system.

1) no need to reprogram the ACM for line level output. The ACM in the 12 speaker system with amp in the drivers kick panel already is set to variable line level, so all good here.
1a) remove the equalization in the ACM with ForScan.
2) you need a T-harness (f.e. made from the CARAV 12-240 or from a Metra DSP harness for Ford cars) to add RCA connectors to the 4 output channels. Those channels are not sent to the amp in the drivers kick panel anymore afterwards, as the wires are interrupted then.
3) chimes, balance and fader will still be available if running 4 channels to your amp.
4) physically removing the stock amp leads to DTCs. The amp is connected to the CAN bus in your car, so I wouldn't (and don't have) remove it.
5) disconnect all unneeded speakers (center channel f.e.).
6) run new speaker wires to the passive crossovers and from there to the speakers.

Best solution:
7) all gets a lot easier with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 and the appropriate car specific harness from Maestro (HRN-AR-FO3) and maybe an extension cable if you want to put the DSR1 in the trunk (HRN-AR-EXT2 or EXT4, you still need aftermarket amps and the appropriate wiring). You can remove the stock amp then.
The harness connects to the stock amplifier connectors in the drivers kick panel. You also can use the harness to reuse existing speaker wiring for connecting your aftermarket amp to your new speakers for the front. The harness has loose wire ends pinned to the appropriate connectors for this.
I still would connect the rear speakers and sub with new speaker wires as they are easily reachable in the trunk. This will set you back about 350,-- $, but it's worth it as it's a lot less work in my opinion. The DSR1 even sends the correct CAN bus messages when your stock amp is disconnected, so no DTCs when read out at the dealer. In addition the DSR1 contains a capable DSP which you can use to tune your new system to your liking. It's basically a Maestro amp replacement module and DSP in one tiny box.

I know, it's a lot to digest for now, therefor i still recommend to visit your local installer and tell him what to do and about the options you've read about.

A lot to digest, for sure. So helpful though, so thank you.

Regrettably I can't source the HRN-AR-FO3 here in the UK. I can get the FO2, any idea what the differences are? Are there other options? Presumably this makes it a plug and play solution with regards to connecting the head unit to the DSR1, which then connects into an amp of my choosing, maintaining all the relevant signals for bongs etc. I'm a big fan of ease and will pay for the luxury, so this sounds like my best option.

 

[Cathul]

A lot to digest, for sure. So helpful though, so thank you.

Regrettably I can't source the HRN-AR-FO3 here in the UK. I can get the FO2, any idea what the differences are? Are there other options? Presumably this makes it a plug and play solution with regards to connecting the head unit to the DSR1, which then connects into an amp of my choosing, maintaining all the relevant signals for bongs etc. I'm a big fan of ease and will pay for the luxury, so this sounds like my best option.

You can... just let Crutchfield send the harness to a proxy and then to your destination. Did the same as i'm in Germany. ;)
Unfortunately the harness will be more expensive this way, but you could also ask the UK distributor of Rockford Fosgate if he cannot source the harness for you. And yes, this solution is almost plug'n'play. Almost, as you still need to solder the speaker wires from your amp to the connectors of the harness which then plugs in into the cars stock harness.

 

[RubberyDuck]

You can... just let Crutchfield send the harness to a proxy and then to your destination. Did the same as i'm in Germany. ;)
Unfortunately the harness will be more expensive this way, but you could also ask the UK distributor of Rockford Fosgate if he cannot source the harness for you. And yes, this solution is almost plug'n'play. Almost, as you still need to solder the speaker wires from your amp to the connectors of the harness which then plugs in into the cars stock harness.

Ok. Would I be correct in saying this would serve well as an amp preceded by the DSR1? It is officially designed to extend one of Audison’s DSP enabled amps. I see no reason why it would complain at following the DSR1 instead? https://www.audison.eu/products/ap4-d/

 

[Cathul]

You can add any amp after the DSR1 that you like. Output side of the DSR1 is just plain RCA connectors.

 

[Racemaster]

I thought the DSR1 was deemed crap by most that have tried them.
Some were software complaints,but most have said that they add too much noise in the system.
Unfortunately in this game,if you want good sound you are going to have to step up the quality of equipment.

 

[Emilbadal]

@Racemaster, what amp and speakers do you have? You’re the only person I know who doesn’t complain about the infamous hissing noise

 

[Cathul]

I don't have hissing noises either. Hissing noises are either ground or tuning issues. Tuning issues are most often related to the gain settings. Lower the gain on the amps and hisses will go away. If it's ground issues find a better ground for your system and the hisses will go away.

 

[Cathul]

I thought the DSR1 was deemed crap by most that have tried them.
Some were software complaints,but most have said that they add too much noise in the system.
Unfortunately in this game,if you want good sound you are going to have to step up the quality of equipment.

The DSR1 didn't introduce more noise in the system in my car when i was testing it, but i had some issues with the Maestro firmware of the device which was then solved by Maestro. I read about noise issues, but i bet most of the time it's ground or gain setting issues in the amp.

 

[RubberyDuck]

The DSR1 didn't introduce more noise in the system in my car when i was testing it, but i had some issues with the Maestro firmware of the device which was then solved by Maestro. I read about noise issues, but i bet most of the time it's ground or gain setting issues in the amp.

After much thought, I've decided I will fit the new speakers myself, utilising the stock amps. If then I'm still yearning for a bit more, or if i have upsetting noise, I'm going to take it to a local installer and let them advise me/do the work. Will be a first for me, as I'm usually capable of doing these things myself, but this sounds like a bit of a minefield and I don't have the time to be chasing down noise.

Final question: Would you kind folks recommend I put some dynamat (or cost effective equivalent) in the doors, or anywhere else? Also, I know the capacity of the bass box is roughly .45c/l, the Pioneer sub I have bought recommends .5c/l. Should I line the box with dynamat, polyfill, or nothing?

 

[Cathul]

Final question: Would you kind folks recommend I put some dynamat (or cost effective equivalent) in the doors, or anywhere else? Also, I know the capacity of the bass box is roughly .45c/l, the Pioneer sub I have bought recommends .5c/l. Should I line the box with dynamat, polyfill, or nothing?

Short answer to your sound deadening question: yes, yes and a third yes, absolutely!
Short answer to your sub box question: yes. But stuff it with a little at a time. Don't hesitate to do it several times by adding a little polyfill to find the point where the bass sounds best.

 

[RubberyDuck]

Short answer to your sound deadening question: yes, yes and a third yes, absolutely!
Short answer to your sub box question: yes. But stuff it with a little at a time. Don't hesitate to do it several times by adding a little polyfill to find the point where the bass sounds best.

Thanks. Could you recommend a cheaper alternative to Dynamat. That stuff is eye-waterringly expensive here!

 

[Cathul]

Just search for Alubutyl in Amazon UK. Dozens of alternatives to Dynamat there.

 

[Racemaster]

RubberyDuck.....
I started with a JL audio 600/6 to Hertz Mille pro's with the supplied crossovers.
It sounded very good,but very limited to adjustments with the passive crossover. Still,No noise.
Then I upgraded again to a Helix P-Six.A slight jump up in power,but with full control.Time alignment is important.
I use the 6 channels to run the front stage full active,no rear speakers.The gains are set to max on the Helix and still no noise.
I have to agree with Cathul that most of the time it is bad grounding or installation error.
My advice is to not try and cheap out on the equipment.You will find yourself re-doing it as the results were not what you expected.

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