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Not impressed with steeda clutch spring

Condor1970

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The Steeda Clutch spring is a great option for someone simply looking for a different feel. I installed one for a couple weeks and decided I liked the stock spring better.

Neither spring is really better or worse. just a different feel. It boils down to a matter of taste, in my opinion.
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LIGHTNING350

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The Steeda Clutch spring is a great option for someone simply looking for a different feel. I installed one for a couple weeks and decided I liked the stock spring better.

Neither spring is really better or worse. just a different feel. It boils down to a matter of taste, in my opinion.
Well said man. One thing you can't get with the steeda though is that effortless feel with the stock one. Not that the steeda is a lot harder, but its just not effortless in my opinion like the stocker. Happy with my decision to switch back as well.
 

Guarded15

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The Steeda Clutch spring is a great option for someone simply looking for a different feel. I installed one for a couple weeks and decided I liked the stock spring better.

Neither spring is really better or worse. just a different feel. It boils down to a matter of taste, in my opinion.
A better option is just take the factory spring out if you want to try something different. No sense giving Steeda money for something you can do for free.
 

LIGHTNING350

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define "better"
I'll butt in here. I think what he is saying "better" because you don't have to pay for it. I have tried all three , no spring, steeda and my stock of course. The steeda and no spring are very similar. I would say the slightest of difference. Making the steeda a waste of money. Actually I would more then less have to agree. However its dirt cheap so I don't think anybody who owns one of these cars will loose sleep , lol.
With that said stock is my favorite and happy I switched back. They put that spring in for a reason and now after trying the other two options I know why.
 

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TexasRebel

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I'll butt in here. I think what he is saying "better" because you don't have to pay for it. I have tried all three , no spring, steeda and my stock of course. The steeda and no spring are very similar. I would say the slightest of difference. Making the steeda a waste of money. Actually I would more then less have to agree. However its dirt cheap so I don't think anybody who owns one of these cars will loose sleep , lol.
With that said stock is my favorite and happy I switched back. They put that spring in for a reason and now after trying the other two options I know why.
Yes they did put that spring in for a reason. It's a over-center spring, too. Which means it holds the weight of the clutch pedal off of the master cylinder (and throw-out bearing) when the clutch is engaged.

How does the price of the spring compare to replacing a throw-out bearing?
 

LIGHTNING350

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I would say the " why "
Yes they did put that spring in for a reason. It's a over-center spring, too. Which means it holds the weight of the clutch pedal off of the master cylinder (and throw-out bearing) when the clutch is engaged.

How does the price of the spring compare to replacing a throw-out bearing?
That is hear say and has not been proven that running no spring will destroy your throw out bearing. Not saying I don't agree with you but there are plenty of people that run no spring without issue.
I also know it is used as a great selling plus for steeda as well.
My thoughts, however I could careless being that the stock spring is where its at for me.
 

Guarded15

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Yes they did put that spring in for a reason. It's a over-center spring, too. Which means it holds the weight of the clutch pedal off of the master cylinder (and throw-out bearing) when the clutch is engaged.

How does the price of the spring compare to replacing a throw-out bearing?
LIGHTNING350 quantified better than I could so I will say no more there.

My personal opinion is that the clutch spring has zero to do with TOB longevity. I had my transmission out last month. Please consider the following:

1. The TOB/slave assembly has an internal spring that holds it with significant pressure to full extension. This means that the TOB is in constant contact with the pressure plate at all times by design. In my opinion it's safe to assume the TOB is designed for constant duty.

2. This spring pressure would actually work against the stock clutch spring (both ends of the system being pulled by springs to maximum extension.) If there is going to be a scenario where there is latent constant pressure on the seals. This is it. And this is the factory design. In my opinion it is safe to assume that the seals can withstand low constant pressure with out a decrease in service life.

3. The amount of line pressure the weight of the pedal produces with the spring removed is negligible and it's likely not even enough to overcome the seal friction in the system. This is demonstrated when you open the hydraulic system at the transmission. You don't get a gush of fluid from the master as the pedal lowers to a neutral position. In fact you get the opposite. When I opened the system it took 10-15 minutes for the first small drop of brake fluid to come out of the pedal/master side. I thought the QD fittings might be some kind of dry break at first. In my opinion it is safe to assume that with the clutch spring removed, latent pressure in the system is at or below stock levels.

4. People have been running with out a spring since 2015 and there hasn't been a rash of issues. In my opinion it is a safe assumption that If running with out a spring caused problems it would be forum wisdom by now.

I personally replaced my TOB, Clutch and Flywheel last month. It wasn't fun. If I thought there was any chance a lack of a $30 spring would cause me to have to go through that again prematurely, I would buy and install the spring. I am running springless and intend to continue doing so.
 

TexasRebel

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LIGHTNING350 quantified better than I could so I will say no more there.

My personal opinion is that the clutch spring has zero to do with TOB longevity. I had my transmission out last month. Please consider the following:

1. The TOB/slave assembly has an internal spring that holds it with significant pressure to full extension. This means that the TOB is in constant contact with the pressure plate at all times by design. In my opinion it's safe to assume the TOB is designed for constant duty.

2. This spring pressure would actually work against the stock clutch spring (both ends of the system being pulled by springs to maximum extension.) If there is going to be a scenario where there is latent constant pressure on the seals. This is it. And this is the factory design. In my opinion it is safe to assume that the seals can withstand low constant pressure with out a decrease in service life.

3. The amount of line pressure the weight of the pedal produces with the spring removed is negligible and it's likely not even enough to overcome the seal friction in the system. This is demonstrated when you open the hydraulic system at the transmission. You don't get a gush of fluid from the master as the pedal lowers to a neutral position. In fact you get the opposite. When I opened the system it took 10-15 minutes for the first small drop of brake fluid to come out of the pedal/master side. I thought the QD fittings might be some kind of dry break at first. In my opinion it is safe to assume that with the clutch spring removed, latent pressure in the system is at or below stock levels.

4. People have been running with out a spring since 2015 and there hasn't been a rash of issues. In my opinion it is a safe assumption that If running with out a spring caused problems it would be forum wisdom by now.

I personally replaced my TOB, Clutch and Flywheel last month. It wasn't fun. If I thought there was any chance a lack of a $30 spring would cause me to have to go through that again prematurely, I would buy and install the spring. I am running springless and intend to continue doing so.
Best of luck...

The fact is, that spring takes the weight of the pedal off of the master cylinder plunger.

Bearing life is calculated with load as a factor. The bearing spinning is not the same as the bearing spinning with full load; life is inversely proportional to load.

The weight of the pedal is effort on the class 2 lever that actuates the clutch master cylinder. It may not weigh much, but it does have a mechanical advantage on the TO bearing.

I have the light spring installed and still find I have to toe-under to pull the pedal out every now and then. Seems the spring gets stuck at center by the weight of the pedal.

72k on an all original '16.
 

Guarded15

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Best of luck...

The fact is, that spring takes the weight of the pedal off of the master cylinder plunger.

Bearing life is calculated with load as a factor. The bearing spinning is not the same as the bearing spinning with full load; life is inversely proportional to load.

The weight of the pedal is effort on the class 2 lever that actuates the clutch master cylinder. It may not weigh much, but it does have a mechanical advantage on the TO bearing.

I have the light spring installed and still find I have to toe-under to pull the pedal out every now and then. Seems the spring gets stuck at center by the weight of the pedal.

72k on an all original '16.
Its purpose may be to take the inconsequential weight of the pedal off the MC plunger or it may be to eliminate freeplay in the pedal giving a diver a higher perception of the vehicle's quality. Where is it established that it's intended function is to lift the clutch pedal off the plunger?

I do know from first hand experience that the weight of the pedal does not produce significant positive line pressure. When you disconnect the clutch line, fluid doesnt burst forth, it barely drips out. I have had the spring out for 4k miles mostly on the stock setup and I have not once had to pull the pedal up, how is that possible if you are correct about the pedal being so heavy that the steeda barely lifts it? With no spring, I should be having to pull up the pedal often, or at least certainly more than one never.

As for the TOB, it is pressed into the pressure plate by significant spring pressure at all times. Later today I will compress my spare TOB assembly against a scale and put a number on how much static pressure there is. I really, really do not think that the pedal weight is a significant contributor to the static load this bearing is under.
 

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TexasRebel

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Its purpose may be to take the inconsequential weight of the pedal off the MC plunger or it may be to eliminate freeplay in the pedal giving a diver a higher perception of the vehicle's quality. Where is it established that it's intended function is to lift the clutch pedal off the plunger?

I do know from first hand experience that the weight of the pedal does not produce significant positive line pressure. When you disconnect the clutch line, fluid doesnt burst forth, it barely drips out. I have had the spring out for 4k miles mostly on the stock setup and I have not once had to pull the pedal up, how is that possible if you are correct about the pedal being so heavy that the steeda barely lifts it? With no spring, I should be having to pull up the pedal often, or at least certainly more than one never.

As for the TOB, it is pressed into the pressure plate by significant spring pressure at all times. Later today I will compress my spare TOB assembly against a scale and put a number on how much static pressure there is. I really, really do not think that the pedal weight is a significant contributor to the static load this bearing is under.
If you're in an '18 or '19 we're talking about different throw out bearings.

Have you ever even stuck your toe under the pedal and tried to pull it up?

Also... the TOB should not be contacting the pressure plate. Do you mean the diaphragm spring?
 

Guarded15

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If you're in an '18 or '19 we're talking about different throw out bearings.

Have you ever even stuck your toe under the pedal and tried to pull it up?

Also... the TOB should not be contacting the pressure plate. Do you mean the diaphragm spring?
I'm in a 15 so I think we are talking apples to apples.

I just tried pulling my pedal up from its rest position. It has a little less than 1/4" inch of freeplay but let's call it 1/4".

Yes sorry, I do mean the diaphragm fingers
 

whalesalad

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I installed my Steeda spring within the first few days of owning the vehicle and haven't looked back. Can't imagine living with that soft OEM feel.
 
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LIGHTNING350

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Best of luck...

The fact is, that spring takes the weight of the pedal off of the master cylinder plunger.

Bearing life is calculated with load as a factor. The bearing spinning is not the same as the bearing spinning with full load; life is inversely proportional to load.

The weight of the pedal is effort on the class 2 lever that actuates the clutch master cylinder. It may not weigh much, but it does have a mechanical advantage on the TO bearing.

I have the light spring installed and still find I have to toe-under to pull the pedal out every now and then. Seems the spring gets stuck at center by the weight of the pedal.

72k on an all original '16.
Well if your still having to pull out your pedal with the lighter spring like you state above, then your contradicting what your saying a bit. So like @Guarded15 said "better" would be an accurate word. :)
 

LIGHTNING350

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I installed my Steeda spring within the first few days of owning the vehicle and haven't looked back. Can't imagine living with that soft OEM feel.
Thought the same thing at first and for the 1000 or so miles it was in. That was until I switched back. At first it was a little odd of course being use to the steeda but after my first cruise of 100 miles or so - it was love. So nice and effortless and the shifts were just superior in smoothness and transitions.
Everyone likes and is comfortable with what they are - however I think so many are blinded with this mod that its a must have. I was one but now I liked to refer to it as a band wagon mod - lol .
Happy cruising -
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