Not impressed with steeda clutch spring

Discussion in 'Transmission & Drivetrain' started by kenand1988, Aug 29, 2018.

  1. SergeyMelnik

    SergeyMelnik Well-Known Member

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    Honestly when I first bought the car I tried no spring then read on the forum what youre saying. So I got kinda scared and bought the steeda spring and drove that way for over a year. Then one day I decided I still didnt like the clutch pedal feel and read that a lot of people dont use a spring at all so I removed mine and have been much happier without it. Right away my shifts became smoother. I have no play at the top of the pedal. I rarely use cruise control and I will not be getting a ford performance tune because of NLS and simply because I want to do headers and maybe intake down the road. But anyway, I dont ever plan to put the steeda spring back in.
     
  2. dman

    dman Well-Known Member

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    I agree...sure, I could get used to stock '17 but, driving a '98 cobra and '67 hi-po as other rides, I like a little resistance and friction point. the Steeda spring gives that feel. I also have not had an issue with max pedal return as some have noted including a friend of mine, who was not topping out on return. most buyers have not had an issue.

    I did notice Steeda referred to an issue being possible with Ford Performance Power Packs' No-Lift Shift which, can also be sketchy with the oem spring for certain driving styles. overall, I prefer the Steeda but would probably go stock with a Power Pack download. enjoy dman
     
  3. A7X

    A7X Well-Known Member

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    I have to say I'm loving my Steeda spring. It takes away some of that anxiety when I was clutching. The only time I didn't was in sub-zero Celsius temps when fluids were cold and I ground my gears a tad

    Other than that love the spring!
     
  4. CrashOverride

    CrashOverride Well-Known Member

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    Not much to add that other people already didn't say except that I bought my car used. Drove it a few days and hated the clutch feel and bought a generic 35# spring. I went to install it, and it turns out it already had the steeda spring in it. So I yanked the spring and while not perfect, it's better than the steeda. I don't have the stock spring, but I have a feeling I'd hate it. In general I don't like hydraulic clutches, I much preferred the cable clutch in my fox body, but everyone is different.
     
  5. Endokendal

    Endokendal Well-Known Member

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    I much prefer the Steeda spring. I guess everybody’s different. Otherwise this forum would be boring.
     
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  6. tj@steeda

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    Some love it ... some not so much, can't win them all :wink:
     
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  7. Ltsrock

    Ltsrock Well-Known Member

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    I'd like who ever says it's a 5 minute simple install to come over, crawl into my drivers side floorboard and prove it. I bailed on it until I finish losing weight, fresh out of a Yoga class and feel like figuring out how this is so simple
    YMMV
     
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  8. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    Hardest part is removing the stock spring, but it is about 5 mins with a vice grips and the right position.
     
  9. Ltsrock

    Ltsrock Well-Known Member

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    Yes I experienced that. Vice grips come in several different sizes and I find the Steeda instructions lacking. Last time I checked their instructions and video show how to work on a non GT350 install.

    What size of needle nose vice grips seem to work? I tried the mid size but couldn't get a grip. I brought home (from work) a smaller pair of vise grips and hope that they make it easier

    My problem is position for sure. I wasn't able to get my upper body (shoulders) inside and still be able to use both hands (at the same time), see and............

    Have no fear, I will persevere and Get-er-done, just saying it's not the piece of cake implied, at least not for me.
     
  10. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    Small or midsized needle nosed kind. Close it up enough to compress the middle coils close together while pushing the clutch in. It'll slide off the pin after that.
     
  11. Ltsrock

    Ltsrock Well-Known Member

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    Thx. As I said, I'll figure it out. But.........
    Have you seen/installed on the GT350's ? There are two springs and the outer one that needs to be compressed is only 3-4 coils and looks different than the non 350's, hence my comment about the install instructions lacking clarity.

    Thanks for your input and suggestions
     
  12. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    I've not seen it for the GT350, but I do have a friend who's done it. Don't know how he went about it.
     
  13. Ghost50

    Ghost50 Well-Known Member

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    Same re: hydraulic clutches. This is my first one and while I love the Steeda spring because it gets me close to that Fox Body/SN-95 feel I still dislike the overall feel of the clutch.

    I’d love to be able to adjust it. I liked a heavy clutch with the break point closer to the floor than midway through the length of the pedal. That’s how I had my previous cars set up.
     
  14. CrashOverride

    CrashOverride Well-Known Member

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    That's how I'm used to as well. My last car (SRT-4 with an ACT organic clutch) was quite heavy and the break point was very close to the firewall/floor. It was hydraulic, but it had an external slave cylinder like the older tranny's. I had a T56 in my 4th gen Camaro that had a hydraulic (internal) slave cylinder. I honestly can't remember how it felt because that was over a decade ago, but it must not have been noteworthy because I had my fox body before that.
     
  15. Whiplash473

    Whiplash473 Active Member

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    This is my biggest issue as well. I wish I could adjust it to grab closer to the floor and also that there's really no feel even without a spring.

    Also, for what it's worth (someone mentioned earlier), I ran all last fall with no clutch spring and cruise control still works including a 1,000mi trip from Georgia without a hiccup.

    EDIT: Before someone says something: I'm going to put a Steeda spring in here in the next week or so. From what I've read so far, there doesn't seem to be much of a difference from Steeda to no spring at all, might as well play it safe.
     
  16. Ghost50

    Ghost50 Well-Known Member

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    @Whiplash473 and @CrashOverride

    I wonder if the aftermarket clutches offered feel much different and would give that desired heavier feel?
     
  17. Whiplash473

    Whiplash473 Active Member

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    Funny, I was just thinking that as I typed my last post.
     
  18. dman

    dman Well-Known Member

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    would the 60lb, be an exhaust valve spring for diesel? are they the same dimension and number of coils as OEM or Steeda? were you able to buy singles? found them only in sets. they look right...flattened end coils etc. always felt that rating would work well after buying Steeda. somewhere between it and the OEM rating.
    any info appreciated dman
     
  19. Kong76

    Kong76 Well-Known Member

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    I might have an extra one. If so I will send it to you no charge. Let me check the garage tomorrow.
     
  20. CrashOverride

    CrashOverride Well-Known Member

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    I read a while back about people worried about clutch wear and stuff like that because of no spring, but every manual I've owned before this had no "Helper" spring, and the pedal itself can't weigh very much, so I'm not worried about it. The dead-space at the top isn't a big deal to me, but to each his own ya know?

    I don't have a Hi-Po clutch in this car, but in my SRT-4, it was so heavy, it blew out the slave cylinder. When I sold it, the guy who bought it had his friend "Expert" drive it. His personal SRT-4 was "Full bolt on" (I have no idea what that is supposed to mean, he had a stock turbo) but anyway when they doubted me that it was not the ACT it actually had, the "expert" remarked how stiff the clutch was :) (I told them if they wanted to yank off the inspection plate, they would see the yellow ACT pressure plate, but I think they started to believe me once I broke out the programmer and showed them how to use it)

    Anyways, if the clamping pressure is higher, and it is a straight spring, none of the centerforce centripetal force stuff, then you should feel some of the increased force in the pedal. As far as the engagement point, if definitely changes for the clutch. As they wear, the engagement point does get closer to the floorboard because of the slight geometry changes. In the case of the SRT-4, the way the clutch fork was designed, it wore on the pivot point really bad, so it dramatically affected the engagement point. Because these have internal slave cylinders with no pivoting parts, that shouldn't affect it. One might be able to further affect it based on an adjustable slave cylinder though. But anytime you replace the flywheel (Or resurface it), pressure plate and clutch, the grab point will change.

    I was impressed with myself when I bought this car. I told the dude at Carmax I was definitely going to stall it at first (Surprisingly he didn't know how to drive a stick, yet was a car salesman). Anyways, I didn't stall it...Maybe slipped it too much because it didn't grab as soon as I thought.

    The other funny thing is that when I went into physical therapy for my lower back problems, the trainer noticed that my left leg was (significantly) stronger than my right on the leg press machine. After pondering why, I told her that if she went out into the parking lot and tried to do some left-leg reps on my clutch pedal, she would know why...
     
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