cyclonetron
Well-Known Member
AH, perfect, I must have been looking at a different document.Mine on Pg 9 has that accurate.
AH, perfect, I must have been looking at a different document.Mine on Pg 9 has that accurate.
So a little background on Ford Part number syntax:Just came across this data regarding the Spring Codes found on the Ford Certification Label:
Spring Codes
Spring codes are listed as a 2-part code. The first set of characters identify the front springs. The second set of characters identify the rear springs.
Front Springs
Rear Springs
- AA - BR33-5310-A
- BB - BR33-5310-B
- CC - BR33-5310-C
- FF - BR33-5310-F
- GG - BR33-5310-G
——
- AA - BR33-5560-A
- BB - BR33-5560-B
- CC - BR33-5560-C
- DD - BR33-5560-D
- EE - BR33-5560-E
- FF - BR33-5560-F
- GG - BR33-5560-G
- JJ - BR3V-5560-J
- LL - BR3V-5560-L
- MM - AR3V-5560-M
- NN - AR33-5560-N
Maybe someone can help to match the above Ford part numbers to actual spring ratios?
Yes.Or should I swap to BMR performance springs?
If I swap, will I need to reclock my bushings or should it still be alright from when I did it last time?Yes.
Just for clarity and to help him out, he has stock base V6 shocks/struts. Not sure if that impacts your recommendation at all since I know typically they go well with the PP shocks/struts but I haven't noticed many where you've said much about base (other than to swap them for something better!).Yes.
The BMRs will be better suited to those than the Eibachs, even.Just for clarity and to help him out, he has stock base V6 shocks/struts. Not sure if that impacts your recommendation at all since I know typically they go well with the PP shocks/struts but I haven't noticed many where you've said much about base (other than to swap them for something better!).
For the reclocking, if the height changes, you should reclock.
If you had to only pick one which would you do?The BMRs will be better suited to those than the Eibachs, even.
If you actually want to start going down the handling road, upgraded dampers are an absolute must.
Option 3 would be about half the price of dampers, so I'd save for the dampers myself, and maybe get some of Steeda's 1/4" rear spring spacers in the meantime.If you had to only pick one which would you do?
1: Keep the Eibachs and save up for dampers. Could be a year or more.
2: Return to stock
3: Swap for BMR performance springs or min drop springs and keep base dampers.
I'd plan on another alignment just because there's no guarantee that you won't introduce a little camber change when you break and re-assemble the strut to knuckle joint (think bolt to hole clearances).Just last weekend installed Steeda's front camber plates along with the FRPP track struts and also the rear camber adjusters, so I need to get an alignment tomorrow. Might swap the rear shocks for Koni yellows and see if I can dial it in a bit, before changing the front springs which would require another alignment unless I can somehow get the camber plates set exactly back where they were.