SPRING RATES & DROPS: ALL IN ONE THREAD!!

[cyclonetron]

Mine on Pg 9 has that accurate.

AH, perfect, I must have been looking at a different document.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Just came across this data regarding the Spring Codes found on the Ford Certification Label:

Spring Codes

Spring codes are listed as a 2-part code. The first set of characters identify the front springs. The second set of characters identify the rear springs.

Front Springs

• AA - BR33-5310-A
• BB - BR33-5310-B
• CC - BR33-5310-C
• FF - BR33-5310-F
• GG - BR33-5310-G

Rear Springs

• AA - BR33-5560-A
• BB - BR33-5560-B
• CC - BR33-5560-C
• DD - BR33-5560-D
• EE - BR33-5560-E
• FF - BR33-5560-F
• GG - BR33-5560-G
• JJ - BR3V-5560-J
• LL - BR3V-5560-L
• MM - AR3V-5560-M
• NN - AR33-5560-N

——

Maybe someone can help to match the above Ford part numbers to actual spring ratios?

 

[GuardEcoBeast]

FYI if anyone cares, the Cobb springs are re-branded Eibachs. Got a set and their sway bars too. Both re-branded Eibachs.

 

[BmacIL]

Just came across this data regarding the Spring Codes found on the Ford Certification Label:

Spring Codes

Spring codes are listed as a 2-part code. The first set of characters identify the front springs. The second set of characters identify the rear springs.

Front Springs

• AA - BR33-5310-A
• BB - BR33-5310-B
• CC - BR33-5310-C
• FF - BR33-5310-F
• GG - BR33-5310-G

Rear Springs

• AA - BR33-5560-A
• BB - BR33-5560-B
• CC - BR33-5560-C
• DD - BR33-5560-D
• EE - BR33-5560-E
• FF - BR33-5560-F
• GG - BR33-5560-G
• JJ - BR3V-5560-J
• LL - BR3V-5560-L
• MM - AR3V-5560-M
• NN - AR33-5560-N

——

Maybe someone can help to match the above Ford part numbers to actual spring ratios?

So a little background on Ford Part number syntax:
Prefix - Base Part - Suffix .....like BR33-5560-A

Prefix: Identifies the Model Year, Vehicle Type and System, the first letter being the Model year. Many 2015 S550 parts begin with FR3Z or FR3V. 2018MY unique/revised parts start with J.

Base Part: This number is the part type, and is the same across any vehicle line. 5560 is rear spring, for example.

Suffix: This identifies the Variant and the Revision. AA means the first variant, first revision. AB means first variant, second revision. BA means second variant, first revision. The service part numbers that we see on auto parts stores only show the variant, not the revision, but the P/N tag on the actual part will show both.

As far as the decoder ring for which car trims/packages have what? I only know a couple based on experience/seeing them.

 

[Dave TBG]

I hate to be the one adding confusion but I just got access to my front springs for the first time and the suffix is BA, my door tag is marked 55BB.

 

[cyclonetron]

I’m debating going back to the stock springs. I feel like the rear end is too low. It feels like turn in and handling was a bit better before I installed the Eibach pro kits. Or should I swap to BMR performance springs? DD no track use.

 

[BmacIL]

Or should I swap to BMR performance springs?

Yes.

 

[cyclonetron]

Yes.

If I swap, will I need to reclock my bushings or should it still be alright from when I did it last time?

 

[Nagare]

Yes.

Just for clarity and to help him out, he has stock base V6 shocks/struts. Not sure if that impacts your recommendation at all since I know typically they go well with the PP shocks/struts but I haven't noticed many where you've said much about base (other than to swap them for something better!).

For the reclocking, if the height changes, you should reclock.

 

[BmacIL]

Just for clarity and to help him out, he has stock base V6 shocks/struts. Not sure if that impacts your recommendation at all since I know typically they go well with the PP shocks/struts but I haven't noticed many where you've said much about base (other than to swap them for something better!).

For the reclocking, if the height changes, you should reclock.

The BMRs will be better suited to those than the Eibachs, even.

If you actually want to start going down the handling road, upgraded dampers are an absolute must.

 

[cyclonetron]

The BMRs will be better suited to those than the Eibachs, even.

If you actually want to start going down the handling road, upgraded dampers are an absolute must.

If you had to only pick one which would you do?

1: Keep the Eibachs and save up for dampers. Could be a year or more.

2: Return to stock

3: Swap for BMR performance springs or min drop springs and keep base dampers.

 

[BmacIL]

If you had to only pick one which would you do?

1: Keep the Eibachs and save up for dampers. Could be a year or more.

2: Return to stock

3: Swap for BMR performance springs or min drop springs and keep base dampers.

Option 3 would be about half the price of dampers, so I'd save for the dampers myself, and maybe get some of Steeda's 1/4" rear spring spacers in the meantime.

 

[Schwerin]

Anyone happen to have the PP2 rates?

 

[aleccolin]

Recently swapped out my fronts to FRPP track struts and it's better, but I'm not in love with it. Thinking about ditching the Steeda progressives for some BMR linear springs (SP081) because it still feels a little under-damped. There's no data available on spring rates for the FRPP track springs, so I don't really have a target to shoot for.

I have Steeda's adjustable lowering springs at the rear which are progressive 850-1000 lb/in, and with the non-adjustable Pro Action shocks it also feels a little under damped. This makes sense because of the very high rate, kinda thought more rebound adjustment might be needed and that seems to be the case.

Just last weekend installed Steeda's front camber plates along with the FRPP track struts and also the rear camber adjusters, so I need to get an alignment tomorrow. Might swap the rear shocks for Koni yellows and see if I can dial it in a bit, before changing the front springs which would require another alignment unless I can somehow get the camber plates set exactly back where they were.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Just last weekend installed Steeda's front camber plates along with the FRPP track struts and also the rear camber adjusters, so I need to get an alignment tomorrow. Might swap the rear shocks for Koni yellows and see if I can dial it in a bit, before changing the front springs which would require another alignment unless I can somehow get the camber plates set exactly back where they were.

I'd plan on another alignment just because there's no guarantee that you won't introduce a little camber change when you break and re-assemble the strut to knuckle joint (think bolt to hole clearances).

Though if you're patient and make some careful measurements with a digital angle finder before you start taking things apart, you might be able to get things back pretty close to where they were.


Norm