Whipple install question

[Bbarfoot14]

quick question as I work my way thru the installs. I can figure out what I’m supposed to do for step 35. Is reads “remove the brake booster vacuum line from check valve by remove pinch clamp”
There’s not a picture and I can figure out where this is. Thanks for the help!!

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[Dr. Norts]

quick question as I work my way thru the installs. I can figure out what I’m supposed to do for step 35. Is reads “remove the brake booster vacuum line from check valve by remove pinch clamp”
There’s not a picture and I can figure out where this is. Thanks for the help!!

Are they talking about the aspirator?

 

[Bbarfoot14]

Are they talking about the aspirator?

I think I got it, I believe it’s the set of tubes that are connected above the TB by the dashed coupler. It routes back to the brake booster and is connected by a pinch clamp. Basically the only thing I could see that fit the bill

 

[Bbarfoot14]

Seperetly though, Hoping someone can advice on the driver side heater hose setup. Basically you install that t fitment they give you and the new heat hose runs from that back to the existing hose which you cut and insert there conector to. My question is, it seems like all those connectors are held on by those heat shrinks they provide, but in the bag they have 2 band clamps as well that I can’t seem to understbd where they go. There is no reference to them, as it only referencing using the heat shrink to connect the heater hoses. Are
These extra? I can’t figure out what, if anything they are meant for.

 

[Copley17]

The instructions aren't clear on that part and do not match the pictures either. In my kit i had two shrink clamps, two gear clamps, and one pinch clamp.

Use either the gear clamp or the shrink clamps at the splice to the stock hose - the sheathing will not fit over the pinch clamp well.

Any of the clamps will work in any of the locations in terms of function, they all serve the same purpose.

 

[Bbarfoot14]

The instructions aren't clear on that part and do not match the pictures either. In my kit i had two shrink clamps, two gear clamps, and one pinch clamp.

Use either the gear clamp or the shrink clamps at the splice to the stock hose - the sheathing will not fit over the pinch clamp well.

Any of the clamps will work in any of the locations in terms of function, they all serve the same purpose.

I really appreciate the response. In the instruction pictures and language it makes no mention to those gear clamps and actually shows them done via the shrink wrap. I also have an extra male to male connector that one side appears to be smaller one. I’m gonna call them tomorrow and see what they recommend. I’ll likelt go gear clamps since I know their tried and true, I’m more concerned about this extra connector that seems to have no place. Like the one you use to connect the new whipple heat hose to the stock one on both sides... just with one end a bit smaller. Any thoughts? Every reference to that connection in the instructions seems to say follow the same steps as the pass side with the connector, 2 heat shrinks, and the sheaving.

 

[Gee]

Not sure if this will help, but I stumbled upon a recent youtube vid of a 2016 Whipple install that was just posted January this year. 2.5hrs long, pretty detailed. I'm gathering info for my whipple install, waiting on the tracking number. Hope this helps!

 

[DAVECS1]

If I had to do it again I would plan out my heater hose splices more carefully and try to locate the splices as far forward or backward as I could to get them out of site. Also use the heat shrink on the splices so you can run the sheathing over it all. This will help make the difference of a so so functional install to a good looking pop the hood install.

 

[Bluelightning]

Not sure if this will help, but I stumbled upon a recent youtube vid of a 2016 Whipple install that was just posted January this year. 2.5hrs long, pretty detailed. I'm gathering info for my whipple install, waiting on the tracking number. Hope this helps!

Is it just me or are his directional rear tires rolling the wrong way?

 

[db252]

It's easier to just pull the check valve out of the brake booster itself instead of messing with that dual clamp attached to it.

Drivers side heater hose you will have extra based on what parts you choose.....nothing is really 'wrong' with how you go about it.

Best shot I have at the moment.......

 

[Bbarfoot14]

It's easier to just pull the check valve out of the brake booster itself instead of messing with that dual clamp attached to it.

Drivers side heater hose you will have extra based on what parts you choose.....nothing is really 'wrong' with how you go about it.

Best shot I have at the moment.......

Yea thank you. So I spoke with whipple and the tech specialist for our car mentioned they now include the gear clamps because people aren’t heating those shrink clamps enough at the t so it’s leaking. I’m going to go gear clamps at the t fitting and heat shrink on the heater hose just like we did the passenger side. Agreed no wrong way... unless you don’t hear enough apparently.
Another question as I get close to mounting... is it me or is torquing those manifold bolts later on going to be a bitch? They use a 5mm ball Allen socket and with the fuel rails I don’t see how you get those torqued to spec.
Any thoughts. I was considering torquing them before installing the headunit.

 

[Bbarfoot14]

If I had to do it again I would plan out my heater hose splices more carefully and try to locate the splices as far forward or backward as I could to get them out of site. Also use the heat shrink on the splices so you can run the sheathing over it all. This will help make the difference of a so so functional install to a good looking pop the hood install.

Good to know, I’m going to set my back as far as possible

 

[db252]

Yes the order of instruction will make it impossible to torque the manifold correctly. I’ve installed plenty of these and I torque the manifold bolts (not including the fuel rail bolts) per the spec and order when the manifold goes on.
I install the injectors into the rails and place the rails into the manifold and then torque those four bolts.
I also don’t add the fuel fittings to the ends of the rails until the rails are torqued because they aid in keeping the rails still to tighten down the fittings.
Does this make sense??

 

[Gee]

Good tips, thank you.

 

[Bbarfoot14]

Yes the order of instruction will make it impossible to torque the manifold correctly. I’ve installed plenty of these and I torque the manifold bolts (not including the fuel rail bolts) per the spec and order when the manifold goes on.
I install the injectors into the rails and place the rails into the manifold and then torque those four bolts.
I also don’t add the fuel fittings to the ends of the rails until the rails are torqued because they aid in keeping the rails still to tighten down the fittings.
Does this make sense??

Yea man that’s an awesome tip, so basically torque the 6, pop on the rails and torque those 4 and that’s your 10 block bolts right?
Then seperetley I think your saying to leave all 4 fuel fittings off the ends until you torque the rail bolts as it will provide leverage to torque those fittings as opposed to doing it on the floor or table? Those don’t have torque specs either, I assume just pretty tight?

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