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What do I do now? MT-82 Woes

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A clutch that doesn't disengage completely will affect all gear changes, though not necessarily to the same degree.
The effect is proportional to the engine speed, because at high revs enough unwanted movement can be transferred through the clutch to the input shaft to overcome the synchronizer's ability to slow it down. At lower revs the synchronizer is strong enough to do its job and slow down the input shaft despite the (little) torque that may be transferred to it through the partially disconnected clutch.

If you can upshift normally at lower revs, and most importantly, if you can downshift normally every time, then the synchros are fine.
At low RPMs the only gear I have trouble with is 3rd. It “nibbles,” creating an audible grind (but still goes into gear) even at 3k. My wife even notices it.

FWIW I gave Ben Calimer a call and he suggested the stock synchros tend to cause that issue.

Uploaded a 0-60 clip where you can hear it:
0-60 pull with audible grind 1-2 and 2-3
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Lemme guess.. Your were a T5 fan ?
I had several cars with T45s. I definitely prefer a transmission that has the shifter mounted directly in it, but at my age, I am not sure I will ever own another manual. I just know that both of the Mustangs I had with MT82s had issues, and I bought both brand new. I've been driving manuals since the 80s and never had to replace a clutch. I'm not sure why Ford has held only the MT82 for so long. Maybe it's just cheap.
 
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You got something else going on there.
I’m no pro, so operator error can always be a factor, if that’s what you’re alluding to. But the lockout/nibble does occur with clutch fully depressed when putting into gear, and before I let the clutch out.

The only 2 things I haven’t touched are the trans itself and the engine mounts… and I doubt torqueing at engine mounts would create anything like that. I’m running out of ideas

Edit: I also haven’t flushed the brake fluid… and that’s part of the same system. But brakes work great, so I don’t think it’s a brake fluid issue either
 
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Maybe it's just cheap.
Cause its a good trans. Unlike any early T series that would blow up if you looked at it funny. You need to get out the mindset of the mechanical clutch release works the same as a hydraulic setup. More specifically, high performance hydraulic setup.

OP not eluding you don't know how to drive a standard, I just heard a lot of slip.
 

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I had several cars with T45s. I definitely prefer a transmission that has the shifter mounted directly in it, but at my age, I am not sure I will ever own another manual. I just know that both of the Mustangs I had with MT82s had issues, and I bought both brand new. I've been driving manuals since the 80s and never had to replace a clutch. I'm not sure why Ford has held only the MT82 for so long. Maybe it's just cheap.
I hear you on the "top loader" shifter design. I, as well, had top loaders: T56 and T45 cars. The MGW shifter on the MT82 trans (can only speak for the D4 version however) is SO close to my T56 with a B&M shifter it is incredible. The MGW really transforms this transmission....
 
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Cause its a good trans. Unlike any early T series that would blow up if you looked at it funny. You need to get out the mindset of the mechanical clutch release works the same as a hydraulic setup. More specifically, high performance hydraulic setup.

OP not eluding you don't know how to drive a standard, I just heard a lot of slip.
I was spinning a lot off and on… 555g2’s don’t seem to stick. Not sure if that contributed to the sound or not. I’ll see if I can get a cleaner run here soon.
 

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Morning Fam.

Last week I completed install of an MGW x-spec. Installed a McLeod RST last month. 2015 Mustang GT. Stockish power level. McLeod stainless clutch line, steeda spring, BG fluid and additive.

It still grinds and won’t go into gear shifting at 6000 and above. Yikes. Looks like a synchro issue.

Options I see:

Option 1: There’s a guy selling an MT82D4 near me. Decent price. Buy this and source a 2018 clutch. McLeod doesn’t even make an RST clutch for the 2018 except with an aluminum flywheel. Might be too rough for a daily driver

EDIT: Has anyone done this? Is there anything required besides the clutch and shifter? Another forum member suggested a sensor/connector needs to be swapped out to work

Option 2: Ben Calimer. I plan to go boost at some point. Stage 1 is $2391 shipped. Stage 2 is $3191 shipped. Stage 3 $4291. All 3 have a prepaid return for your core and a $500 refund once received. Stage 3 is pretty pricey and might be too much for a daily driver. (People online complain about awful noise and vibration with it… and it’ll be many months before I could afford it)

Option 3: Buy the parts online and have a local shop install. $575 labor if I bring them my trans. $900 if I bring them the car.

Option 4: ???
it continues...tremec
 

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I hear you on the "top loader" shifter design. I, as well, had top loaders: T56 and T45 cars. The MGW shifter on the MT82 trans (can only speak for the D4 version however) is SO close to my T56 with a B&M shifter it is incredible. The MGW really transforms this transmission....
MGW on TREMEC T45...98 Cobra love it! had B&M RIPPER before. not the same animals

tried the Steeda bracket on my 2017 pp1. improved but still occasional lock out. actually have driven track stangs with MT82s. shifting required patiences and had very few issues. Rev limiter
more of of a problem. of course on a road course power shifts are not the call...toe/heel etc
straight line drag racing different stories
 
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MGW on TREMEC T45...98 Cobra love it! had B&M RIPPER before. not the same animals

tried the Steeda bracket on my 2017 pp1. improved but still occasional lock out. actually have driven track stangs with MT82s. shifting required patiences and had very few issues. Rev limiter
more of of a problem. of course on a road course power shifts are not the call...toe/heel etc
straight line drag racing different stories
Steeda shifter mount was my first mod… seemed to help (but not completely fix) the lockout. I did prefer it to the stock mount. Some NVH increase.
 

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To me it sounds a lot more like a Bent Shift Fork. Been there done that. Plus if you are forcing it into gear your synro's will go south in a hurry.
 

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Grinding is most likely going to be syncros, mine did it going to second and third frequently and I bought my 19 brand new along with a 15 and 17 and never replaced a clutch or trans and I had/have prochargers on all 3 of them, the only one to give grinding issues was the 19, would miss 2nd and third constantly when it was colder it was worse. The lockout is almost always clutch related the only fix is a good aftermarket one, the grinding it needs to go to a good trans shop and be gone through, or call Ben and have him send you a stage 1 to get you going for a while and you can get yours repaired and have it on standby for if/when you have another problem.
 
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Grinding is most likely going to be syncros, mine did it going to second and third frequently and I bought my 19 brand new along with a 15 and 17 and never replaced a clutch or trans and I had/have prochargers on all 3 of them, the only one to give grinding issues was the 19, would miss 2nd and third constantly when it was colder it was worse. The lockout is almost always clutch related the only fix is a good aftermarket one, the grinding it needs to go to a good trans shop and be gone through, or call Ben and have him send you a stage 1 to get you going for a while and you can get yours repaired and have it on standby for if/when you have another problem.
I think that’s the plan for now - either go Calimer stage 1 as a temporary fix or stage 2 for something longer-term.

I’m NA for a while. Going whipple but it’ll be a couple more years.
 

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MGW on TREMEC T45...98 Cobra love it! had B&M RIPPER before. not the same animals

tried the Steeda bracket on my 2017 pp1. improved but still occasional lock out. actually have driven track stangs with MT82s. shifting required patiences and had very few issues. Rev limiter
more of of a problem. of course on a road course power shifts are not the call...toe/heel etc
straight line drag racing different stories
Had a pro 5.0 and short stick on the T45 and did not like it! Went to MGW and longer stick and adjusted the angle and it made a world of difference! I’m sorry for your transmission woes, it really makes the car not fun, especially when the high RPM shift is where the powerband is!
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