MT-82 Improvements

[Brazos609]

ice445 said: ↑
Mileage? Sounds like she's about done for though. Luckily a Tremec 3160 swap is pretty straightforward

86k.
Its not that straightforward...I also prefer the gearing of the 15-17 MT82.

I have to ask why. Out of the MT82, the Calimer/GGforce level 3 rebuilt MT82, the MT82D4, and the Tremec TR3160, the TR3160 has the closest and most usable ratios.

RPM drop between gears, regardless of what RPM you shift at

18+ MT82D4
1st to 2nd 35% 2nd to 3rd 32% 3rd to 4th 30% 4th to 5th 19% 5th to 6th 23% 4th to 6th 37%(double overdrive)

15-17 MT82
1st to 2nd 34% 2nd to 3rd 30% 3rd to 4th 22% 4th to 5th 24% 5th to 6th 35%

Calimer/GForce level 3 MT82
1st to 2nd 34% 2nd to 3rd 30% 3rd to 4th 22% 4th to 5th 21% 5th to 6th 39%

TR3160
1st to 2nd 31% 2nd to 3rd 28% 3rd to 4th 23% 4th to 5th 19% 5th to 6th 37%

The lower the % of RPM drop between gears the better and the TR3160 would be my choice.

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[Brian@BMVK]

ice445 said: ↑
Mileage? Sounds like she's about done for though. Luckily a Tremec 3160 swap is pretty straightforward



I have to ask why. Out of the MT82, the Calimer/GGforce level 3 rebuilt MT82, the MT82D4, and the Tremec TR3160, the TR3160 has the closest and most usable ratios.

RPM drop between gears, regardless of what RPM you shift at

18+ MT82D4
1st to 2nd 35% 2nd to 3rd 32% 3rd to 4th 30% 4th to 5th 19% 5th to 6th 23% 4th to 6th 37%(double overdrive)

15-17 MT82
1st to 2nd 34% 2nd to 3rd 30% 3rd to 4th 22% 4th to 5th 24% 5th to 6th 35%

Calimer/GForce level 3 MT82
1st to 2nd 34% 2nd to 3rd 30% 3rd to 4th 22% 4th to 5th 21% 5th to 6th 39%

TR3160
1st to 2nd 31% 2nd to 3rd 28% 3rd to 4th 23% 4th to 5th 19% 5th to 6th 37%

The lower the % of RPM drop between gears the better and the TR3160 would be my choice.

I autocross a lot. 2nd gear ratio is really nice for that

Any of the Tremec swaps are 2-3x more expensive without 2-3x the benefit. Sure it's better, but not that much.

 

[Brazos609]

I autocross a lot. 2nd gear ratio is really nice for that Any of the Tremec swaps are 2-3x more expensive without 2-3x the benefit. Sure it's better, but not that much.

Maybe I would make you a good deal on a GT350 TR3160 setup; flywheel, clutch, transmission, shifter, driveshaft, everything between the engine and rear differential.

 

[XeninWorX]

I’ve got a 2014 V6 with a MT82. No issues for me and clutch pedal feels fine. I can tell where the engagement is.

 

[Hadelson]

Two 2019 GT's: 1st was PP1 car and went MGW route. Precise, smooth, no lockout and no NVH. 2nd Mustang and current is 19 RS3 Roush with Steeda Tri-ax and blow fish bracket. Precise, but lots of NVH. Have yet to see any lock-out.

If I did it again, will go with the MGW over the Steeda.

Update......Pulling out the Steeda and Installing MGW. Never could get this to shift as clean as the MGW

 

[XeninWorX]

Update......Pulling out the Steeda and Installing MGW. Never could get this to shift as clean as the MGW

I was thinking either Blowfish Racing bracket or MGW. The transmission does have a clunky feel to it which I felt a Blowfish bracket would eliminate but thought maybe go for extra and get a MGW and also have cleaner shifts.

 

[Hadelson]

Just my thoughts. The entire engine/trans torques...........the main issue is the rear mount to the top of the well and the top mount to the top of the transmission. Two anchor points with one moving and the other fixed. This results in alignment issues that the linkage cannot overcome effectively. The ford linkage is pretty weak . Apply more throttle/resistance and greater angle is created = greater resistance.

The MGW is completely trans mounted with aligned movement with the transmission under torque. Should finish the install in a few days. The Steeda is out-now just taking my time to install the MGW.

 

[Vlad Soare]

When I started this thread almost ten months ago, I did it because the amount of hate this gearbox was getting on these forums was beginning to worry me. What had I gotten myself into? Had I made a mistake ordering the manual gearbox? But then I took your advice, took a deep breath, and decided to wait until I drive the car before taking any changes into consideration.
And what a great advice that was.
Because I've been driving the car daily for a month now, and boy do I love it! It's perfect. There's no notchiness, no hesitation, not even when cold (though admittedly it hasn't been that cold recently, only about 46 °F in the mornings; winter might be a different story). I have no problem getting it into any gear at any rpm up to 6000 (haven't tried anything higher than that since the engine isn't entirely broken in).
On downshifting I can sometimes feel that the synchronizers need a fraction of a second more to do their job, but that's absolutely normal. That's how manual gearboxes work. Instead of forcing the shifter into gear, I just keep it there, at the gate, until I feel that it's ready to go in. And half a second later it does go in nicely and easily.
If you're smooth with the clutch and the shifter and do not try to rush it, it works wonderfully.
Who knows, maybe I was just lucky and got a good sample. Could be. All I know is I love it.

 

[shogun32]

no, it just means you've been assimilated by the "it's not so bad" horde.

/jk

 

[Vlad Soare]

May be. But so far not only can I perceive nothing bad about it, but quite the contrary, it's one of the best I've seen.

To top it off, I even like the feel of the stock clutch. I was going to install a Steeda clutch spring, but gave up on the idea because frankly I see no point. I can feel the engagement point just fine and can engage the clutch perfectly smoothly each and every time. I don't feel any motivation to make the pedal harder to press, just to fix something that doesn't seem to be broken.

If I must necessarily find something I don't particularly like, that would be the horizontal rubber stripes on the clutch pedal, which make it next to impossible to slide my foot smoothly on the pedal with certain shoes. I know Ford's intention was entirely honourable, to make the pedal as grippy as possible, it's just that I happen not to like it grippy. But I've ordered the aluminum pedal covers from Steeda, which I think should solve this, and in the meantime I avoid shoes with rough-surfaced soles. So everything's fine.

 

[XeninWorX]

May be. But so far not only can I perceive nothing bad about it, but quite the contrary, it's one of the best I've seen.

To top it off, I even like the feel of the stock clutch. I was going to install a Steeda clutch spring, but gave up on the idea because frankly I see no point. I can feel the engagement point just fine and can engage the clutch perfectly smoothly each and every time. I don't feel any motivation to make the pedal harder to press, just to fix something that doesn't seem to be broken.

If I must necessarily find something I don't particularly like, that would be the horizontal rubber stripes on the clutch pedal, which make it next to impossible to slide my foot smoothly on the pedal with certain shoes. I know Ford's intention was entirely honourable, to make the pedal as grippy as possible, it's just that I happen not to like it grippy. But I've ordered the aluminum pedal covers from Steeda, which I think should solve this, and in the meantime I avoid shoes with rough-surfaced soles. So everything's fine.

Same here. Nothing wrong with my transmission either. I don’t have any of the problems other people seem to have with lockout. I changed the fluid to Royal Purple and it made it slightly smoother but not by much. I can feel the clutch engagement with the factory spring so no need for a Steeda spring however it is inexpensive so might try it and see how it is. Either Blowfish or MGW is next for me.

 

[WD Pro]

Same for me

I tried the Steeda spring as it was cheap, my thoughts from my build thread :

I think the locking pliers cost as much as the spring ...

The springs easy to fit with that tool and following the instructions - I’m not quite sure just how heavy handed you need to be to break the perch ... ? (Or perhaps Ford have beefed it up a little as the years have gone on ?).

Impressions ... ? Well, bear in in mind I’ve drove manual for 27 years and didn’t really have a problem with the original setup, but the spring was cheap and I already had it in the spares box so I had little to lose. Normal driving it only makes a little difference on initial setting off, it kind of feels like the pedal is a little harder, BUT only through a bit of it’s travel (about a third of the way through its travel as you release the clutch). It does kind of feel a bit more ‘linear’.

So after driving it around the estate so I had plenty stop start driving, I could take it or leave it - no real benefit (for me). However, I reverse up my drive through a gate on a bit of an incline at a speed where I’m right on the biting point of the clutch - in that scenario there was a marked improvement in feel / control. On those grounds alone I would recommend it (for me), especially considering the nominal outlay

WD

 

[XeninWorX]

Same for me

I tried the Steeda spring as it was cheap, my thoughts from my build thread :



WD

i always back up the car into the driveway and find it sometimes harder to get it to grab. Maybe I’ll try the Steeda spring and see if it improves.

 

[Elp_jc]

Very happy with both the tranny, and stock clutch/spring, too .

 

[wtb6mtv8rwd]

Very happy with both the tranny, and stock clutch/spring, too .

Same here!

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