Lorne34
Project Hidalgo
.I should buy all the aluminum shelby caps and hydrodipped plastics for the engine bay while I am at it
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.I should buy all the aluminum shelby caps and hydrodipped plastics for the engine bay while I am at it
How hard were the bushing supports and delrin alignment? Fairly quick install time wise?Finished up Steeda springs, camber plates, front and rear sway bars, and stop the hop kit. Roll bar and tow hook going in then off to the shop for an alignment later this week.
Yes, I did this job myself. I took some good council from another member here and just purchased the complete hub assembly from Optimum Performance instead of just changing the studs.Got a quote for extended stud installation for front and rear. How long does that typically take DIY vs shop? Anyone done recently and can give guidance on shop cost?
Trying to decide if $1500 installed ($550 parts plus $950 labor) is worth it vs buying new hubs for the 2.5k mile car with the studs already pressed in then dealing with the headache of installing myself to save a few hundred bucks. Will have to check your earlier post.Yes, I did this job myself. I took some good council from another member here and just purchased the complete hub assembly from Optimum Performance instead of just changing the studs.
I figured that my original hubs had some track time on them so I changed the whole hub.
Fronts were a piece of cake,
rears were another story.
Emergency brakes, axle nuts, and so on.
I did the job on my car lift and glad that I did it myself, but it was a real PITA.
I posted it on this thread
#1102. I’m sure you can do it judging from what you have already done, but you are going to earn it.
Good luck
First side obviously took longer just figuring out what went where but overall not bad. The only part that was sort of a pain was the bushing support clamp which is two pieces. I had to drive the larger U shaped piece in most of the way first to expand the metal part of the bushing for the rear smaller piece of the clamp. There's not a lot of room for that piece to be inserted between the subframe and rubber bushing. Took a bit of prying and squeezing with channel locks before it lined up enough to get the cap screws started. Everything else was pretty easy. You have to make sure the front subframe bolt is torqued prior to installing the IRS brace. It's in the way which is odd because the end of the instructions specifically say to retorque that bolt if it was loosened to install the brace.How hard were the bushing supports and delrin alignment? Fairly quick install time wise?
Technically, I don’t think the two piece clamp is designed to work with a Mach or 350, which may explain why you found them to be very tight / difficult to fit ?First side obviously took longer just figuring out what went where but overall not bad. The only part that was sort of a pain was the bushing support clamp which is two pieces. I had to drive the larger U shaped piece in most of the way first to expand the metal part of the bushing for the rear smaller piece of the clamp. There's not a lot of room for that piece to be inserted between the subframe and rubber bushing. Took a bit of prying and squeezing with channel locks before it lined up enough to get the cap screws started. Everything else was pretty easy. You have to make sure the front subframe bolt is torqued prior to installing the IRS brace. It's in the way which is odd because the end of the instructions specifically say to retorque that bolt if it was loosened to install the brace.
Entirely possible. I could have likely put them on the belt sander and taken just a touch off to solve the tightness issue. However, didn't take too much percussive maintenance to get them into place.Technically, I don’t think the two piece clamp is designed to work with a Mach or 350, which may explain why you found them to be very tight / difficult to fit ?
I tapped mine right through, and went with longer bolts to help fitment without marking the finish :
WD
For reference, here is some info when I installed studs:Trying to decide if $1500 installed ($550 parts plus $950 labor) is worth it vs buying new hubs for the 2.5k mile car with the studs already pressed in then dealing with the headache of installing myself to save a few hundred bucks. Will have to check your earlier post.
Thanks! Have this bookmarked already . Make it seem easy which is why I'm tempted to DIY.For reference, here is some info when I installed studs:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...isit-and-a-screw-up-for-entertainment.159924/
Congrats... it's great feeling to NOT have a car payment!I paid it off