Vibration after an autocross event..

[Dana Pants]

Wheel weights need aluminum foil tape over them or they melt off. But most likely a wheel bearing got loose, as they are cursed. Mine are put on with red loctite and still rebel from time to time.

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[Alerch]

Wheel weights need aluminum foil tape over them or they melt off. But most likely a wheel bearing got loose, as they are cursed. Mine are put on with red loctite and still rebel from time to time.

I covered the stub ends with red loctite when I had it apart, add that to the list to check.. Thanks for the tip!

 

[07S281E]

Could a rear wheel have lost the balance weight?

 

[Alerch]

Well fellas, I got the car up in the air last night and had the g/f run it through the gears I noticed the center section moving around... The upper or rear bushings for the diff are torn or split however you want to look at it.. I guess that is probably my wheel hop issue I was having when I left the start line the last couple events I went too. Looks like dropping the cradle is in my future.. Solid alum bushing will be taking place of the rubber on the cradle and diff. might as well do poly for the suspension if any one makes a replacement kit for these cars.. So keep an eye on those bushings!

 

[ArrestmeRed]

Have any pics of the bushings? They move around a lot from the factory so that may not be your issue. Aluminum replacements will be incredibly loud in the car at speed. You'll hear nothing but gear whine. They sell inserts that clamp the factory bushings if they're not completely torn through. BMR and Steeda both make kits.

If you start this video at 50 seconds you can see what I'm talking about. It has that much slop from the factory.

 

[NGOT8R]

Driveshaft rear flange looks okay where it bolts to the differential flange (i.e. bolt flanges not hung up on the diff. flange’s lip)?

 

[Cobra Jet]

After the event yesterday I noticed on the drive home the car had a vibration from 40ish to 80 never went faster than that. The car (2016 GT 6 speed) has been lowered with fords track suspension and aligned also has Steeda's one pc alum driveshaft. This is the first sign of any vibration, any ideas on where to start looking?

Try this thread and look at the driveshaft center support carrier bearing, starting at Post #6:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/s550-driveshaft-coupler.104582/#post-2260813

 

[WItoTX]

Have any pics of the bushings? They move around a lot from the factory so that may not be your issue. Aluminum replacements will be incredibly loud in the car at speed. You'll hear nothing but gear whine. They sell inserts that clamp the factory bushings if they're not completely torn through. BMR and Steeda both make kits.

If you start this video at 50 seconds you can see what I'm talking about. It has that much slop from the factory.

OP is talking the diff bushings, not the subframe. Both are garbage for hard launches. The video you posted is for the subframe bushings though.

OP, did you by chance take a video when you had your car up in the air? I always enjoy visuals of what is going on myself.

 

[Alerch]

Have any pics of the bushings? They move around a lot from the factory so that may not be your issue. Aluminum replacements will be incredibly loud in the car at speed. You'll hear nothing but gear whine. They sell inserts that clamp the factory bushings if they're not completely torn through. BMR and Steeda both make kits.

If you start this video at 50 seconds you can see what I'm talking about. It has that much slop from the factory.

I'll get some pictures up here soon when I get home, the bushings are definitely ripped and tore through. I seen the insert system they both sell..

Try this thread and look at the driveshaft center support carrier bearing, starting at Post #6:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/s550-driveshaft-coupler.104582/#post-2260813

I have Steeda's 1 pc drive shaft..

Driveshaft rear flange looks okay where it bolts to the differential flange (i.e. bolt flanges not hung up on the diff. flange’s lip)?

Everything on the driveshaft looks perfect nothing loose or out of place, I checked it with and indicator when it was running last night its dead true. My unprofessional guess is the bushing on the diff. is causing the vibration.

 

[Alerch]

OP is talking the diff bushings, not the subframe. Both are garbage for hard launches. The video you posted is for the subframe bushings though.

OP, did you by chance take a video when you had your car up in the air? I always enjoy visuals of what is going on myself.

I didnt think to video it.. I do have pictures on my phone though! lol

 

[ArrestmeRed]

OP is talking the diff bushings, not the subframe. Both are garbage for hard launches. The video you posted is for the subframe bushings though.

OP, did you by chance take a video when you had your car up in the air? I always enjoy visuals of what is going on myself.

Correct I know that. Was just using the video for reference. Under hard launch you can see in the video just how much slop the differential bushings have aside from the movement of the subframe.

OP just realized if you had the car on jack stands, did you feel the vibration while going through the gears? That would eliminate a tire concern.

 

[Alerch]

Correct I know that. Was just using the video for reference. Under hard launch you can see in the video just how much slop the differential bushings have aside from the movement of the subframe.

OP just realized if you had the car on jack stands, did you feel the vibration while going through the gears? That would eliminate a tire concern.

It was smooth till the speedo hit 55 or so then I could feel the shimmy in the rear end.. that is when I looked under and seen the center section moving around some.. then noticed the tear in the upper or rear bushings on the diff. I'll have to figure out how to approach this issue, poly bushing on the diff and alum for the cradle or the other way around? If i'm going to fix it I'm not putting band aids on the diff as far as the insert system goes.. I'd rather solid mount it and be done with it. Now keep in mind this is my track car as I hardly drive it on the street anymore. I'm open to suggestions on the fix?

 

[bnightstar]

It was smooth till the speedo hit 55 or so then I could feel the shimmy in the rear end.. that is when I looked under and seen the center section moving around some.. then noticed the tear in the upper or rear bushings on the diff. I'll have to figure out how to approach this issue, poly bushing on the diff and alum for the cradle or the other way around? If i'm going to fix it I'm not putting band aids on the diff as far as the insert system goes.. I'd rather solid mount it and be done with it. Now keep in mind this is my track car as I hardly drive it on the street anymore. I'm open to suggestions on the fix?

I suggest you checkout this thread:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/differential-bushing-lockout-kit.184221/

 

[Biggsy]

I had a similar issue towards the end and after my last event (HPDE). Fortunately I marked my tires and I had a lot of tire/wheel slip on all corners. Put the right side in the air which is where the vibration was coming from. Shook the front and rear wheel and no play. My tires slipped like 6 inches so I’m leaning towards unbalanced wheels.

 

[Alerch]

After looking the rear end over real well I decided I'll drop the cradle and just replace all the bushings well i have it apart.. Has anyone used the energy suspension kit 4.18127G before? I'm not sure about poly bushings for the cradle though a solid bushing just makes more sense to me.. It would be nice to replace every bushing on this car for peace on mind since I do track it..

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