Uh.....Guys?

[accel]

I did that search and randomly went through many of the videos and found 1, maybe 2 that had the BBQ tick. It is not as prevalent, considering there are probably more F150's sold with the 5.0 then the Mustang. it could also be that those guys don't sweat the small stuff. Not sure.

Could just be that they are not youtubers. But go over their forum topics. They have exact same things with block replacements and ford/dealer headaches.

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[GT Pony]

If I knew my engine front cover had placeholders for ac tensioner pulley, I'd already tried it.

Grab a flashlight and go take a look at the front cover. If the front cover has threaded holes in the two locations shown by the arrows in the figure below, then the kit should bolt right up.

 

[accel]

Grab a flashlight and go take a look at the front cover. If the front cover has threaded holes in the two locations shown by the arrows in the figure below, then the kit should bolt right up.

already did. my '17 has it. ordered the tensioner.

 

[Condor1970]

Could just be that they are not youtubers. But go over their forum topics. They have exact same things with block replacements and ford/dealer headaches.

The F-150 has definitely had guys complain of engine ticks. However, it is true that not nearly as many have had it, nor is the percentage as high. Keep in mind, the F-150 sales for V8's has dropped to about 1/4 of what they were just 8 years ago. However, in 2017, they sold almost 600,000 V8's for the F-150. That's 6 times the number of V8 Mustangs. A decade ago, they were selling something like 2,000,000 V8 F-150's compared to relatively constant 100,000-200,000 V8 Mustangs.

So, the fact that you only see a few tick videos for the F-150, but tons for the Mustang gives you an idea of how the percentage of piston slap occurrence for the F-150 is far less than the Mustang. There are lots of factors that can play into why, like a lower HP rating, different tuning, and also the fact that they all have a belt tensioner for the A/C compressor.

 

[accel]

The F-150 has definitely had guys complain of engine ticks. However, it is true that not nearly as many have had it, nor is the percentage as high. Keep in mind, the F-150 sales for V8's has dropped to about 1/4 of what they were just 8 years ago. However, in 2017, they sold almost 600,000 V8's for the F-150. That's 6 times the number of V8 Mustangs. A decade ago, they were selling something like 2,000,000 V8 F-150's compared to relatively constant 100,000-200,000 V8 Mustangs.

So, the fact that you only see a few tick videos for the F-150, but tons for the Mustang gives you an idea of how the percentage of piston slap occurrence for the F-150 is far less than the Mustang. There are lots of factors that can play into why, like a lower HP rating, different tuning, and also the fact that they all have a belt tensioner for the A/C compressor.

I do not know how you get a stat in how many f150s have issues.

here's 32 pages long thread on same thing as we have with stangs.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1363528-5-0-coyote-tapping-ticking-knocking.html

 

[Condor1970]

I do not know how you get a stat in how many f150s have issues.

here's 32 pages long thread on same thing as we have with stangs.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1363528-5-0-coyote-tapping-ticking-knocking.html

Sure, but remember, that thread has about a dozen different guys complaining about a tick from their truck, many of which span many years of production. In fact, if you sift through it, there's even a guy with a Mustang complaining of the same thing. There's literally about 20 times more F-150's out there compared to Mustangs. If this was a BIG issue with the F-150, heck... you would have heard about it on 60 Minutes by now.

My point, is that percentage wise, it is an issue with the F-150, but nowhere near as common as it is with the recent 5.0L Mustang.

 

[gimmie11s]

Following. It would explain why the problem is not prevalent in the F150 community.

My question too... hmmm.

 

[growler]

if all this is true anyone with a supercharger would also have stopped the noise at least those running small belt,this should be easy to verify right?

 

[Condor1970]

UPDATE:

Went for another drive today for about 20 minutes. I could hear things better since last night it was raining quite heavily. Right now, no rain.

First Cold Start: On initial cold start after sitting all night, there is NO tick anymore for the first 1-2 minutes.

Warmup: After about 1-2 minutes at idle, I could hear the random tick/slap slowly start as the engine warms up. HOWEVER, the random tick is a little more random, meaning the frequency is not as often as before. ALSO, the loudness of the tick is about 75% less. It is random and much more quiet than before. Two days ago, you could stand 30ft away and hear it outside, even though it has 1/2 bottle of Ceratec in there. Now, it is very faint even while in my garage.

Hot Idle: As it warms up to operating temp, the faint warmup tick slowly goes away. At roughly 700rpm and the oil temp gauge reaches the "green zone" on the digital meter, the tick is completely gone.

Neutral Tick: When at operating temp, the blip revving tick in neutral is completely gone. Any remnants of it sound like normal engine operation when in the 1,200-2,000rpm range.

The Rattle: That appears to be gone while driving. Any weird noise now sounds more like clutch and transmission rattle when you press on the gas and put load on the drive train. It is all much quieter now.

Conclusion: Yep, it's obvious that adding a belt tension arm to shift the tension on the crankshaft has made a noticeable difference (to my car). Is it perfect? No, but the minor ticking I hear during warmup is something I am not going to concern myself with, as A LOT of vehicles exhibit some piston slap or valve train noises during warm up as the block and other components slowly expand from heat. I've done just everything I can to deal with this issue, short of taking it back in to have them tear my car apart. I'm at the point I really don't even want to concern myself with it anymore. I'm just going to enjoy my ride.

 

[accel]

UPDATE:

Went for another drive today for about 20 minutes. I could hear things better since last night it was raining quite heavily. Right now, no rain.

First Cold Start: On initial cold start after sitting all night, there is NO tick anymore for the first 1-2 minutes.

Warmup: After about 1-2 minutes at idle, I could hear the random tick/slap slowly start as the engine warms up. HOWEVER, the random tick is VERY random, meaning the frequency is not as often as before. ALSO, the loudness of the tick is about 75% less. It is random and much more quiet than before. Two days ago, you could stand 30ft away and hear it outside, even though it has 1/2 bottle of Ceratec in there. Now, it is very faint even while in my garage.

Hot Idle: As it warms up to operating temp, the faint warmup tick slowly goes away. At roughly 700rpm and the oil temp gauge reaches the "green zone" on the digital meter, the tick is completely gone.

Neutral Tick: When at operating temp, the blip revving tick in neutral is completely gone. Any remnants of it sound like normal engine operation when in the 1,200-2,000rpm range.

The Rattle: That appears to be gone while driving. Any weird noise now sounds more like clutch and transmission rattle when you press on the gas and put load on the drive train. It is all much quieter now.

Conclusion: Yep, it's obvious that adding a belt tension arm to shift the tension on the crankshaft has made a noticeable difference (to my car). Is it perfect? No, but the minor ticking I hear during warmup is something I am not going to concern myself with, as A LOT of vehicles exhibit some piston slap or valve train noises during warm up as the block and other components slowly expand from heat. I've done just everything I can to deal with this issue, short of taking it back in to have them tear my car apart. I'm at the point I really don't even want to concern myself with it anymore. I'm just going to enjoy my ride.

cool. I will install the tensioner on my '17 over the weekend. the tensioner is on its way.

I do not have rattles, just ticks. No ceratec.

Also have neutral gear 1000-2000 rpm tick (was still present when I had ceratec)

The only time I had it tick while idle was when I had 5w30 oil (no ceratec). Switched back to 5w20, no more idle tick.

Other than that I can hear it tick while doing light accelerations 1000-2000 rpms windows down, something sound reflective on the side of the car. These were literally eliminated by ceratec while I still had it.

So we'll see.

 

[gimmie11s]

UPDATE:

Went for another drive today for about 20 minutes. I could hear things better since last night it was raining quite heavily. Right now, no rain.

First Cold Start: On initial cold start after sitting all night, there is NO tick anymore for the first 1-2 minutes.

Warmup: After about 1-2 minutes at idle, I could hear the random tick/slap slowly start as the engine warms up. HOWEVER, the random tick is VERY random, meaning the frequency is not as often as before. ALSO, the loudness of the tick is about 75% less. It is random and much more quiet than before. Two days ago, you could stand 30ft away and hear it outside, even though it has 1/2 bottle of Ceratec in there. Now, it is very faint even while in my garage.

Hot Idle: As it warms up to operating temp, the faint warmup tick slowly goes away. At roughly 700rpm and the oil temp gauge reaches the "green zone" on the digital meter, the tick is completely gone.

Neutral Tick: When at operating temp, the blip revving tick in neutral is completely gone. Any remnants of it sound like normal engine operation when in the 1,200-2,000rpm range.

The Rattle: That appears to be gone while driving. Any weird noise now sounds more like clutch and transmission rattle when you press on the gas and put load on the drive train. It is all much quieter now.

Conclusion: Yep, it's obvious that adding a belt tension arm to shift the tension on the crankshaft has made a noticeable difference (to my car). Is it perfect? No, but the minor ticking I hear during warmup is something I am not going to concern myself with, as A LOT of vehicles exhibit some piston slap or valve train noises during warm up as the block and other components slowly expand from heat. I've done just everything I can to deal with this issue, short of taking it back in to have them tear my car apart. I'm at the point I really don't even want to concern myself with it anymore. I'm just going to enjoy my ride.

You really think a weak single AC tensioner and belt have enough force to physically move the crank AND rotating assembly enough to make it stop producing noise? A crank that is supported by FIVE (5) steel main bearing caps where each is bolted down by 6 bolts? The crank is bolted to the bottom of the block with 30 ! fasteners. A bottom end so strong that it allows the motor to spin to OVER 8k RPM with ease.

Yet a rubber belt and tensioner are going to somehow "align" the crank. Laughable!

Maybe this will solve the issue if its actually the AC compressor, AC clutch, or pulley making noise. Other than that, no.

.

 

[accel]

Maybe this will solve the issue if its actually the AC compressor, AC clutch, or pulley making noise. Other than that, no.

.

who cares if it does not tick anymore.

 

[gimmie11s]

who cares if it does not tick anymore.

Who cares if it ticks.....

 

[Condor1970]

You really think a weak single AC tensioner and belt have enough force to physically move the crank AND rotating assembly enough to make it stop producing noise? A crank that is supported by FIVE (5) steel main bearing caps where each is bolted down by 6 bolts? The crank is bolted to the bottom of the block with 30 ! fasteners. A bottom end so strong that it allows the motor to spin to OVER 8k RPM with ease.

Yet a rubber belt and tensioner are going to somehow "align" the crank. Laughable!

Maybe this will solve the issue if its actually the AC compressor, AC clutch, or pulley making noise. Other than that, no.

.

Then explain the difference. After Ford themselves issued it as a TSB as a possible fix for that exact same noise, I'm inclined to think that it's possible to have an effect. Maybe not a cure to every car or every situation, but it obviously had an effect on my car. No disputing that.

So, again...Explain the difference.

 

[gimmie11s]

Then explain the difference. After Ford themselves issued it as a TSB as a possible fix for that exact same noise, I'm inclined to think that it's possible to have an effect. Maybe not a cure to every car or every situation, but it obviously had an effect on my car. No disputing that.

So, again...Explain the difference.

How about posting a video to prove what you are saying?

As I said, perhaps the noise is coming from the AC components.... in that case sure, it makes sense.

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