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Transmission fluid recommendation for manual?

Rock50

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Was thinking about trying out the Tremec HP MTF. Emailed them asking about compatibility with Mercon LV and if I need to flush it all out. Reply was that since this is OEM built tranny, I should follow whatever fluids are specified in the user manual.

D4 shows as replacement for Merc V and not LV. D6 works with LV, but by then, will it be any improvement over factory fill as it seems so close in parameters. And Red Line will probably have the same reply as Tremec.

Not to discredit anyone with good feedback, just something to keep in mind if it ever comes to the factory warranty claim game.
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joepro

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In the event of a warranty failure, The tech would have to suspect a fluid change took place and retain a sample, then send and get analyzed. Then, they would have to give you proof the fluid caused the failure. I'd have a harder time with the short shifter than the fluid IMO.

I can handle warranty rebuttals, I know a thing or two. Tremec is only going to refer to the OEM will it's under Warranty.
 
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JetGray_Mach1

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Good info but having had the MT82 previosly this transmisison feels and shifts perfect so far at 4K miles so I am going to leave it alone. I actually feel that if shifts even better quick. Not sure why some of you mention that it doesnt like quick shift.

I did have some issues getting into 1st or reverse (had to lift clutch and try again). But that has gone away now that its broken in (maybe reverse sometimes but I consider that normal for a manual car).
 

MiamiGT350

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@Ragamuffin I would break in your transmission a bit more before doing a fluid swap. If you want to ensure the fluids are topped off, you should be able to remove the fill-bolt from the transmission and add fluid to see if it helps with the drive-ability. Generally though, I think adding more miles is advisable.

Ford recommends Motorcraft products in their vehicles, which I would use before you determine if you have a warranty claim / issue.
 

sakman84

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At ~5,300 miles, a couple of track days and a few spirited canyon drives I decided to try D4. It has provided a noticeable improvement in feel immediately. You can tell its higher viscosity from the factory fill, which was very thin. I plan on changing it again at 30,000 miles or if a rack up a bunch of track days. Either way, I will try D6 on the next change to see how I like that.

The procedure is easy, especially with a pump and shop lift. After you drain and fill, you should start the car put it in 1st gear on the lift and let the tires spin by themselves in the air for a few minutes to make sure you don't trap air in the cooling circuit.

procedure


For those not ready to make the jump to D4, try D6, its closer to Mercon LV in viscosity, so close that I'm skeptical (like Rock50) it won't make a difference, it will be interesting to hear D6 reports....

I will report back as more miles roll on, but for now D4 has been a solid win for me.
 

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biminiLX

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Contact D&D Performance in Wixom, MI and order their spec fluid for Tremec transmissions. They’re aworked directly with Tremec and Cadillac to design the best fluid for Tremec as Cadillac had to run OEM TR6060 transmissions in the road course CTS-V programs (IMSA?).
I run their fluid in my 1200hp GT500 Magnum XL and after 500-1000mi the Mach 1 will get its first oil changes to the engine and trans. I’ll use the D&D fluid in all my Tremec cars.
-J
 

Rock50

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Changed to Red Line D6 today with slightly over 7k miles on the car. Futzed around town for a little and can't say I noticed anything different.

Big thing was I kept reading that it will be 3.2 quarts for cars with tranny cooler (like M1) and 2.5 quarts without. I guess this means 2.5 is in the tranny and the rest is in the lines and cooler, because I was pouring and at about 2.5, it started pouring out of the fill hole - what a mess. I drained similar amount (2.5).
 

murick

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While doing some research on the subject I noticed some discrepancies I would like to clarify with people who already did the fluid change.

The user manual for the transmission fluid check says (see the attached excerpt):
  1. Clean the filler plug.
  2. Remove the filler plug.
  3. Start the engine and allow it to idle for two minutes with the clutch engaged.
  4. Add fluid through the filler hole.
  5. The correct fluid fill level is 0.0–0.1 in (0–3 mm) below the bottom edge of the filler hole.
  6. Install the filler plug.
  7. Tighten the filler plug until you feel a strong resistance.
Now, in the video posted by @sakman84 I did not notice the guy running the trans with the filler plug open, nor anyone in the thread mention that. I wonder if it may be related to the fact that in order to open the external cooling circuit the trans needs to "warm up" first. Otherwise you would not be able to drain the external part (as possibly experienced by @Rock50?).

On the other hand for just adding some fluid why would one need to open the external circuit?

Another question is about the right fill level. The guy in the video says it is fine when the fluid is still leaking a bit out of the filler hole, while the Ford manual says it should be basically filled up to the hole edge. Also, as per some posts here, it seems that the factory fill also leaked from the filler hole when it was opened. So I am a bit confused?

Finally the guy in the video ends up with running the trans (but with the filler hole closed?!) to do what exactly? It seems if he did not open the external circuit before, he should not be able to drain it either, so it should still have the old fluid and he should not be able to pump in all 3 bottles of the fluid. And if he did open the external circuit prior to pumping in the new fill, it should have been opened already?
 

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VictorH

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Whats the opinion on using BG Syncro Shift II ?
Good stuff! I've been running it for nearly 8,000 miles now and about to do another oil change. Lots of track miles too. The trans and diff change kit from OP Mustang is pretty handy and works well.

The trans shifts smoother and is been a good change. Now the Tremec is a bit of a "clunky" trans and when cold you need to be slow and deliberate. I think it's perfectly fine, but it's certainly not as nice and smooth as BMW, Porsche or a good S2000 trans, but it's durable, the synchros are reliable and I've found it to be trouble free.

PS-I have MGW shifter too, which is great. Takes a few thousand shifts to become nice and low resistance (new it's a stiff beast).
 

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JOKER M1

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Good stuff! I've been running it for nearly 8,000 miles now and about to do another oil change. Lots of track miles too. The trans and diff change kit from OP Mustang is pretty handy and works well.

The trans shifts smoother and is been a good change. Now the Tremec is a bit of a "clunky" trans and when cold you need to be slow and deliberate. I think it's perfectly fine, but it's certainly not as nice and smooth as BMW, Porsche or a good S2000 trans, but it's durable, the synchros are reliable and I've found it to be trouble free.

PS-I have MGW shifter too, which is great. Takes a few thousand shifts to become nice and low resistance (new it's a stiff beast).
Thanks, used it years ago in an MT-82 and was very happy, wasn’t sure how well it worked in the Tremec. Based on your comment about the kit I’m assuming you also changed the diff fluid ? If so did you use the one with or without friction modifier ? I’m aware of all the why & why nots for the torsen & non torsen, just curious what you chose
 

VictorH

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Yes, trans and diff fluid. Per OP Mustang recommendations, if you track, did NOT order diff friction modifier. My car is mostly street driven and have not noticed any noise or change in performance. Honestly, can't tell the difference on track either but it's what they recommend so I'm going with it.
Also, I'm using the heavier weight diff fluid and have not had any diff overheating issues (yet, but don't really expect any).
 

VictorH

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Just changed the trans and diff fluid this afternoon. I think the service interval could be longer for both. The exact mileage was 7,430 miles. The green oil is the diff which looks brand new really, the brown oil is the trans oil. When it was flowing looked better than in the pan. Without an oil analysis I guess it's hard to say, but I've changed some nasty trans and diff oil in the past and this is nothing like it. Looked good, for whatever that's worth.

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Mjschneidy

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This stuff from these guys. Recommended for our Tremec plus a bottle of the MGC friction modifier. It’s become the go to for those of us tracking our cars. Tim was very helpful and has it all laid out in kits if you want.
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murick

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Just changed the trans and diff fluid this afternoon.
Did you run the trans on idle prior the flush with the fill hole open (as suggested by the user manual)? If not, did you manage to drain the whole cooling system anyway?
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