Track prep for beginner

[Norm Peterson]

Dumb question, but should I bother getting both front and rear or just buy a set of HPS fronts and keep rear stock?

HPS is not a track pad. (On edit) I doubt they're rated any more than 100° better than typical OE pads.

They may be enough to get you through a couple of instructed and carefully paced (read easy) introductory days . . . IF you're always conscious of the fact that you'll be able to overheat and fade them if you ask too much from them. For example, don't be chasing new personal best speeds down the straights as evidence of improvement.


Norm

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[wildcatgoal]

Out of all the parts you kindly listed, I can't use the tower brace since no one makes them for a V6. I used a GT one with spacers before, but it was sketchy and introduced A LOT of vibration so I got rid of it.

Then get the Steeda lower G-Track brace - the 4-point one.

 

[stoli]

Skip the strut tower brace and save some money - you won't find a benefit there.

 

[Mustang_Eh]

Skip the strut tower brace and save some money - you won't find a benefit there.

Mind explaining the reason? I'm actually curious and trying to learn as I go.

 

[Mustang_Eh]

HPS is not a track pad. (On edit) I doubt they're rated any more than 100° better than typical OE pads.

They may be enough to get you through a couple of instructed and carefully paced (read easy) introductory days . . . IF you're always conscious of the fact that you'll be able to overheat and fade them if you ask too much from them. For example, don't be chasing new personal best speeds down the straights as evidence of improvement.


Norm

I see. Power stop actually has a track specific pad, but I'm not sure if that means squeeling brakes during daily driving. I'm not trying to be changing them every track day because the wheels I'm getting will need hub rings and that's just a hassle in itself.

Track pads: http://www.powerstop.com/product/track-day-brake-pads/#y=2016&mk=FORD&mo=MUSTANG&ss=V6 Models

I'm thinking to go with these: http://www.powerstop.com/product/power-stop-z26/#y=2016&mk=FORD&mo=MUSTANG&ss=V6 Models

 

[stoli]

Mind explaining the reason? I'm actually curious and trying to learn as I go.

I was trying to find a post I saw over the weekend on this from someone with far more knowledge than me... Basically it boils down to the chassis be plenty stiff without it.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I was trying to find a post I saw over the weekend on this from someone with far more knowledge than me... Basically it boils down to the chassis be plenty stiff without it.

Having driven a GT non-PP car without the metal K-brace in the engine bay and no strut bar, I'm confident I would be able to tell the difference between a non-PP car and PP car, especially after lowering and stiffening it. My understanding - which could be wrong - is that the metal K-brace is what actually does the real work in the PP car. And when you couple the strut tower brace WITH that, you have basically a 3 point triangle brace.

Regarding under-side bracing, I can tell when a 4-point brace is not under my car. I can tell when a 2-point brace is on my car, but I've never gotten a chance to do the same kind of blind (wasn't aware it was off) test with those. When I was having my car inspected for track work checklist, my 4-point was taken off and I was asked to "check out the alignment". I knew something was off by the time I got to the exit of the parking lot - car had a "new", very subtle rubberiness.

 

[stoli]

Keep in mind stiffer isn't always better. If I throw adjustable sway bars on and set them to their stiffest setting I'm not going to handle better; quite the opposite.

 

[Optimum Performance]

I was trying to find a post I saw over the weekend on this from someone with far more knowledge than me... Basically it boils down to the chassis be plenty stiff without it.

LOL This one? This car must be slow and handle like garbage, no CAI, No K-Brace, No Strut Tower Brace, No 2 or 4 point braces, No Cradle Lock Out.

:ford: ..........

 

[stoli]

No, but I did think about that one. It was one that was linked from Corner Ponies to one of the main S550 groups that was 'debating' this exact subject.

 

[Optimum Performance]

I see. Power stop actually has a track specific pad, but I'm not sure if that means squeeling brakes during daily driving. I'm not trying to be changing them every track day because the wheels I'm getting will need hub rings and that's just a hassle in itself.

Track pads: http://www.powerstop.com/product/track-day-brake-pads/#y=2016&mk=FORD&mo=MUSTANG&ss=V6 Models

I'm thinking to go with these: http://www.powerstop.com/product/power-stop-z26/#y=2016&mk=FORD&mo=MUSTANG&ss=V6 Models

Do yourself a favor and don't waste your money on these pads. Stick with the OE and get through your first track day with your car as it is. Flush the brake fluid with new factory fluid.

Track capable pads are not tapered for low noise, they are full pad surface for a reason. These are pads marketed as track pads but these are just more of their Chinese garbage in a race inspired box with a new logo.

You have 12.6" rotors on a 3700# vehicle. You need brake cooling. If I were you I would spend the less than $500,00(new parts) and change calipers and rotors to the GT 14" 4 piston set up. It opens you up to endless brake compound choices and will give you much better braking.

 

[higdominator]

Stock base brakes (not 4 piston, the itty bitty 12.6") on bottom after 1 track day with stock pads, no cooling, stock fluid.

Replacement Brembos on top

FYI- those groves are very deep. Rotors were tossed.

 

[higdominator]

LOL This one? This car must be slow and handle like garbage, no CAI, No K-Brace, No Strut Tower Brace, No 2 or 4 point braces, No Cradle Lock Out.

:ford: ..........

Doesn't that little pony have a full cage?;)

No debating the issue at hand, just think it might be a little more "sturdy".


But I agree, it's probably super slow without a JLT.....

 

[Optimum Performance]

One other question [MENTION=18281]Mustang_Eh[/MENTION]

What size are your factory wheels? 17" or 18" Are the wheels you are using have plastic or aluminum hub rings?

 

[Mustang_Eh]

One other question [MENTION=18281]Mustang_Eh[/MENTION]

What size are your factory wheels? 17" or 18" Are the wheels you are using have plastic or aluminum hub rings?

I'm buying 18x10 +36 WedsSport wheels this weekend.

I just found the take offs on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-Mustan...RAKE-TAKEOFF-SET-w-14-ROTOR-SET-/172476045316

But I also found take off Brembos for $660: http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-16-Ford-...RAKE-TAKEOFF-SET-w-15-ROTOR-SET-/192071020082


From what I've been reading, occasional track presence I can get away with plastic hub rings, but I may consider getting aluminum. The one thing about alum. rings is that due to heat they may expand and cause issues.

Another thing is I'm in Canada and drive my car all year round. However, I do switch to winter wheels when it's salt time. From what I read, alum. rings may cause rust on the hub.

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