Track day prep

[bnightstar]

... probably shows that because the front camber isn’t adjustable by default.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...e-pack-2-version-1_su_EN-US-EN-CA_11_2017.pdf

This is the link to the PP2 supplement manual. It says -1.5 degree of front camber and starting cold pressure of 28 psi or 1.93 bars. I run on my local track with around that but it's not as demanding as Daytona. I think for Daytona you need different camber right/left because of the banking :?

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[Norm Peterson]

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...e-pack-2-version-1_su_EN-US-EN-CA_11_2017.pdf

This is the link to the PP2 supplement manual. It says -1.5 degree of front camber and starting cold pressure of 28 psi or 1.93 bars. I run on my local track with around that but it's not as demanding as Daytona. I think for Daytona you need different camber right/left because of the banking :?

If you were only running the oval and only turning left you might actually set POSITIVE camber on the left front together with however much negative camber on the right front. But I think that'd be more because the corners all go in the same direction (as the inboard suspension moves into 'droop', the wheel camber goes even further negative which would be opposite to what you'd normally like given that for ovals only you don't care about right turn capability).

For running the infield there might still be some advantage in setting LF camber to be less negative than RF camber.


Norm

 

[Grintch]

... probably shows that because the front camber isn’t adjustable by default.

My first track day I blistered the RF tire. So I agree that you need more camber for track use.

But if you are a novice and aren't pushing the car hard you might not need to do it right way. Be prepared to rotate tires to help extend the life (don't forget the wheel lock key if you have wheel locks).

 

[jimharrell]

My first track day I blistered the RF tire. So I agree that you need more camber for track use.

But if you are a novice and aren't pushing the car hard you might not need to do it right way. Be prepared to rotate tires to help extend the life (don't forget the wheel lock key if you have wheel locks).

Yep, I've never done a track day so I'll be taking it easy and learning the ropes. But I will have fresh track tires on.

 

[mikeD4V]

What is your car suspension setup ? that car looks flat in the video and not a lot of body roll want the same

Ford Performance Track Handling Pack: M-FR3A-M8A

Awesome picture! For an SCCA track event, how would I go about renting? Just the day of? Like how much is that? Yeah hopefully someone will be there kind enough to let me borrow a torque wrench. Never even used one before to be honest. I have a tire guage and compressor covered though. But in 10 days getting new tires and will make sure they set that properly and then track day next month. Since it sounds like you've done the SCCA event there before(?), how early should I get there if they have the driver briefing at 4:30pm?

Yeah I will at least a couple weeks before to start with make sure brake fluid is clear and full as well as with the oil. Pedal is most definitely still firm, never noticed a decrease in braking performance as of yet. But yes, being first track event, certainly won't be going 10/10.

I've never even been at Daytona let alone drive on it so the banking will be interesting. But it should be the same idea from your awesome video? What if it is raining...?

Sounds like a Track Night in America event. I thought you were there for a 2-3 day event. Not sure if TNIA rents garages. Prob won't need one if just there for a few hours. I've never attended a TNIA event but the same track configuration is listed for the event. Found more info on the event here: https://www.tracknightinamerica.com...t-2021-daytona-international-raceway-april-30

 

[kiksbutt]

What would you recommend for a light/novice track day? Not really pushing too much but learning the track, etc. How much toll does it take on parts, fluids, and tires for 1 -2 day session? Besides fresh oil, anything else worth changing if the car is under 5k miles?

 

[NightmareMoon]

What would you recommend for a light/novice track day? Not really pushing too much but learning the track, etc. How much toll does it take on parts, fluids, and tires for 1 -2 day session? Besides fresh oil, anything else worth changing if the car is under 5k miles?

be prepared for a day in the elements and be ready to feed and hydrate yourself.

Its nice to be able to deal with tire inflation and pressure management.

as far as the car goes, they’ll generally do fine for a novice if they have the Brembos.

Me, I did an alignment before my GT’s first track day and thats about it.

 

[bnightstar]

What would you recommend for a light/novice track day? Not really pushing too much but learning the track, etc. How much toll does it take on parts, fluids, and tires for 1 -2 day session? Besides fresh oil, anything else worth changing if the car is under 5k miles?

Change oil.
Change break fluid to Motul 600.
Make sure your break pads have at least 4 mm.
And your tires have enough tread.
When on track lower your tire pressure to around 2 bar or 29-30 psi cold.
Make sure you fallow your oil and cylinder head temp to not go in the yellow/red zone.
Enjoy your day. Car shouldn't have problem with 1-2 days. The consumables for our cars on track are: Oil, Break fluid, Break Pads, Rotors, Tires, Trans oil if MT82, Diff fluid.

 

[Flyhalf]

If first timer...
Engine oil
Brake dot4 (motul 600)
And just go there and have fun!
Feel the car. Max psi hot around 34psi.
That is all u need n
Remember for daily. 1°of extra camber doesn't destroy tires. Toe is the killer.
Alex

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Feel the car. Max psi hot around 34psi.

Sorry, just a novice myself (five trackdays so far), so asking since I think you are competent, but why max psi 34?

I go with the regular daily driving 32 psi to my trackdays, and it rises to around 36-39 (according to TPMS) when I get going. Should I start with much lower psi? From what I've read elsewhere, 36-38 PSI is a decent number to aim for when hot.

Since I don't have a good alignment yet (have received camber plates, but not installed yet since I worry it will be a complicated job for me), I've also started to add some extra air (up to around 34 psi, cold) in an effort to save some of the sidewall on my tires until I can get a decent alignment.

 

[Flyhalf]

Sorry, just a novice myself (five trackdays so far), so asking since I think you are competent, but why max psi 34?

I go with the regular daily driving 32 psi to my trackdays, and it rises to around 36-39 (according to TPMS) when I get going. Should I start with much lower psi? From what I've read elsewhere, 36-38 PSI is a decent number to aim for when hot.

Since I don't have a good alignment yet (have received camber plates, but not installed yet since I worry it will be a complicated job for me), I've also started to add some extra air (up to around 34 psi, cold) in an effort to save some of the sidewall on my tires until I can get a decent alignment.

32-34psi hot is a well known happy place for our cars.
This is a general rule and of course chamge slightly depending on many factors.
An over inflated tire create wearing in the center of the tire and reduce the grip of the tire.
The fastest you get the lower you start with psi (cause you will build more heat)
On street tires
I usually start between 26-28 and after 1st sessiom with a gauge I adjust to be sure tires are 34psi hot.
Is not a fixed rule. And depends from many factors (weather. Ext temp. Drive style. Speed. Track etc. )
Some tires build more heat ( A052) some less (3R)
So just be sure to have a pressure gauge. Try 34psi hot. See if you like it. And then try 32 or 36.
If you use the tires to drive to the track remember to re adjust psi accordingly ( you won't develop enough heat in street driving. )
A note.
Tmps is great but is not instantaneous. A pressure gauge is important at the track

Last here se help for the fromt struts.
The video has no Cut
You do need some tools.
Most important a
Impact gun
Big mallet
Spring compressors.
Feel free to reach me out in PM in case you need.
Alex

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

32-34psi hot is a well known happy place for our cars.
This is a general rule and of course chamge slightly depending on many factors.
An over inflated tire create wearing in the center of the tire and reduce the grip of the tire.
The fastest you get the lower you start with psi (cause you will build more heat)
On street tires
I usually start between 26-28 and after 1st sessiom with a gauge I adjust to be sure tires are 34psi hot.
Is not a fixed rule. And depends from many factors (weather. Ext temp. Drive style. Speed. Track etc. )
Some tires build more heat ( A052) some less (3R)
So just be sure to have a pressure gauge. Try 34psi hot. See if you like it. And then try 32 or 36.
If you use the tires to drive to the track remember to re adjust psi accordingly ( you won't develop enough heat in street driving. )
A note.
Tmps is great but is not instantaneous. A pressure gauge is important at the track

Last here se help for the fromt struts.
The video has no Cut
You do need some tools.
Most important a
Impact gun
Big mallet
Spring compressors.
Feel free to reach me out in PM in case you need.
Alex

Many thanks. I will experiment a bit more once I get some proper alignment. For now I will try to save what's left of my sidewalls.

 

[HourlyB]

Going to revive this dead thread because I have a couple questions;

Just signed up for a track day at Thompson (SCDA in the Green group), and I'm wondering what I should do in addition/instead of what I have planned;

Definite:

• Brake Fluid flush (RBF600) prior to session since it's been in for a year, then a bleed after the session
• Oil and filter change after track session (Penn Platinum 5w-30/FL-500S with about 2k miles of street mileage currently, not sure if people would suggest changing before the session over after)

Possibly (I've heard conflicting reports on how necessary doing these would be at this point):

• Transmission fluid change (Currently at 51k miles, would swap to BG Syncro Shift II, transmission feels a bit rough anyways)
• Diff fluid change (I swapped the factory GT diff for a 3.73 PP torsen diff, and filled it with BG Ultra Guard 75w-90, currently has 13k miles on it)

 

[bnightstar]

Going to revive this dead thread because I have a couple questions;

Just signed up for a track day at Thompson (SCDA in the Green group), and I'm wondering what I should do in addition/instead of what I have planned;

Definite:

• Brake Fluid flush (RBF600) prior to session since it's been in for a year, then a bleed after the session
• Oil and filter change after track session (Penn Platinum 5w-30/FL-500S with about 2k miles of street mileage currently, not sure if people would suggest changing before the session over after)

Possibly (I've heard conflicting reports on how necessary doing these would be at this point):

• Transmission fluid change (Currently at 51k miles, would swap to BG Syncro Shift II, transmission feels a bit rough anyways)
• Diff fluid change (I swapped the factory GT diff for a 3.73 PP torsen diff, and filled it with BG Ultra Guard 75w-90, currently has 13k miles on it)

If I were you considering how old your fluids are I would change Trans/Diff. I try to change mine at the end of each track season or on the 5k mile mark or so if I'm tracking but really depends on track time. Yours have a lot of street miles so I would change regardless. Better a few dollars for fluids than thousands for transmission/diff.

Oil with only 2k miles should be fine.
Brake fluid should be fine as well RBF600 is good for 2 years.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Going to revive this dead thread because I have a couple questions;

Just signed up for a track day at Thompson (SCDA in the Green group), and I'm wondering what I should do in addition/instead of what I have planned;

Definite:

• Brake Fluid flush (RBF600) prior to session since it's been in for a year, then a bleed after the session
• Oil and filter change after track session (Penn Platinum 5w-30/FL-500S with about 2k miles of street mileage currently, not sure if people would suggest changing before the session over after)

Possibly (I've heard conflicting reports on how necessary doing these would be at this point):

• Transmission fluid change (Currently at 51k miles, would swap to BG Syncro Shift II, transmission feels a bit rough anyways)
• Diff fluid change (I swapped the factory GT diff for a 3.73 PP torsen diff, and filled it with BG Ultra Guard 75w-90, currently has 13k miles on it)

I wouldn’t change the diff fluid for a green run group and novice driver. It might be a limiting factor but I’d guess not for a new driver. If its a very hot day, maybe yeah replace with 75w140. If you continue tracking, just leave the 75w140 in it full time. Consider bringing an electric fan and pointing it at the diff to cool it between sessions.

For the oil, i would not go to the track with oil at the end of it’s life. If its pretty new then send it, but if you’re 8k into a 10k interval, change it first. If you’re 4k/10k then maybe just change it afterwards. The main deal is track use is hard so you don’t want oil which is breaking down from use, you want oil in good condition (doesnt have to be new), and the oil will be somewhat deteriorated after the track day, which may be fine if it was new to start, but you won’t want to drive another 8k on the street afterwards on it.

I wouldn’t do transmission oil just because of the track day, although if you’re doing the diff oil anyway, its not too bad to do the trans oil while you’re under there. I didn’t find the syncro shift II to really be any better than stock BTW, maybe even notchier while cold.

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