Track Car (mostly) with a Bazaar Issue

[67Fast_V]

Hi Folks - new to the Forum. 1st post. Thanks to all that have contributed over the many years. Great stuff. Planning to do my part.

Just bought a 2020 GT PP1 car mostly for the track. 1000 miles on the car and have a bazaar issue that maybe someone out there has experienced. I have a noise coming from below the center console or dash area that sounds like a popslick stick in a bicycle spoke. It starts at around 25-30 mph and then gets more intense as speed picks up.

Took it to the dealer today and they don't have a clue. Said they need 2-3 days worth of troubleshooting at a minimum. They think it is something loose and vibrating, either from road vibration or wind/outside air rushing by. That makes sense to me from what I hear. But they don't know what part might be vibrating. It will be trial and error of taping stuff up and test driving. They say its not anything mechanical. That if it bothers me, just turn-up the radio .

I have been under the car several times (prior to the dealer visit) and there is nothing hanging down or stuck in any of the wheels or on the driveshaft. I will get back under it again, but thought that maybe someone else might have experience this or give me some suggestions. It does sound like a flapping panel that is either vibrating in the air or against something under the console or under the dash but outside the car.

Thanks in advance for your help.

PS: I already had to replace the thermostat at 900 miles. The bypass circuit was locked in the fully open position and overheated the engine when on it hard continuously. I bought a Reische 170 and bench tested it. I will send out the data. Thanks.

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[ICU812]

Someone play a trick on you, and put a zip tie on the driveshaft or half shaft?

 

[zhent]

I'm going to guess it has a manual transmission, since you didn't say.

I had this happen. The bolts holding the shifter assembly don't get put in properly at the factory and loosen, eventually falling out completely. The sound is the bottom of the assembly hitting the top of the driveshaft at the tail end of the transmission.

If it's an automatic, I have no clue...

 

[Biggus Dickus]

English Cop on patrol: Bazaar : a market (as in the Middle East) consisting of rows of shops or stalls selling miscellaneous goods .

Bizarre: very strange or unusual, especially so as to cause interest or amusement.

As for your issue, does the sound go away around 3000 RPM?

 

[67Fast_V]

I'm going to guess it has a manual transmission, since you didn't say.

I had this happen. The bolts holding the shifter assembly don't get put in properly at the factory and loosen, eventually falling out completely. The sound is the bottom of the assembly hitting the top of the driveshaft at the tail end of the transmission.

If it's an automatic, I have no clue...

Thanks for thinking. That's a good thought. Sorry forgot to mention this is A10. My bad. I checked all of the driveshaft I could see (front and rear) and there is nothing rubbing. I wish it was a zip tie but had no noise during the first 900 miles. And know one has been under the car except me. I did not check the half shafts. Thanks. I will check those in a day or so. However the noise is coming from the middle of the car forward, the best I can tell. This is a real head scratcher.

 

[67Fast_V]

English Cop on patrol: Bazaar : a market (as in the Middle East) consisting of rows of shops or stalls selling miscellaneous goods .

Bizarre: very strange or unusual, especially so as to cause interest or amusement.

As for your issue, does the sound go away around 3000 RPM?

I always need an English lesson. Can hardly write most of the time. Noise is independent of rpm. Neutral revs, nothing. Tried different gears at 30-40 mph and made no difference. The only sensitivity is speed. Nothing at 20 mph, very faint at 25, picks up goings towards 40. Very notable at 70 mph. Haven't tried it at 100, although I'm anxious.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Check the emergency brake cable and attaching assembly found under the driver side trans tunnel. This has been a known source of under far noises and is hard to replicate unless in a certain RPM range. When the cable is loose, it can make contact against the trans tunnel under certain conditions OR could be touching exhaust mid pipe. How to adjust the cable and assembly:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-adjust-your-parking-brake.25204/

If looking at it from under the car, yes visually they will look “fine”, but take a closer look to make sure it's not the source of the noise.

--

Driveshaft:
If the driveshaft or axles have any labels on them - it's possible during rotation that the labels are flapping during transit. Remove the labels. There was a thread on here a bit ago where some M6G members found the driveshaft label to be the culprit of under car noises.

--

Exhaust:
Look for any black soot staining on the exhaust pipes. If it exists, it's an exhaust leak and will also make a similar sound like ticking or the sound you describe. Loosen any clamps, adjust exhaust and tighten clamps down to seal from exhaust leaks.

 

[67Fast_V]

Check the emergency brake cable and attaching assembly found under the driver side trans tunnel. This has been a known source of under far noises and is hard to replicate unless in a certain RPM range. When the cable is loose, it can make contact against the trans tunnel under certain conditions OR could be touching exhaust mid pipe. How to adjust the cable and assembly:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-adjust-your-parking-brake.25204/

If looking at it from under the car, yes visually they will look “fine”, but take a closer look to make sure it's not the source of the noise.

--

Driveshaft:
If the driveshaft or axles have any labels on them - it's possible during rotation that the labels are flapping during transit. Remove the labels. There was a thread on here a bit ago where some M6G members found the driveshaft label to be the culprit of under car noises.

--

Exhaust:
Look for any black soot staining on the exhaust pipes. If it exists, it's an exhaust leak and will also make a similar sound like ticking or the sound you describe. Loosen any clamps, adjust exhaust and tighten clamps down to seal from exhaust leaks.

Thanks CJ. I will take a look at the E cable and assembly. Also the driveshaft again. And the exhaust. Weekend job.

I just wonder if there is a hidden or partially buried panel somewhere that is loose and getting excited with movement of air. Its almost like when you hang one of those college flags out your window and let it flap in the moving air. Makes noise w/o hitting anything.

It has a slightly different sound, as its coming up from under the car/dash/console area. More muffled and clicky but repetitive. I don't believe its inside the dash but outside the car somewhere. It's soft/light at 25mph and picks up from there with vehicle speed. You would think it would be very obvious looking around under the car. Something hanging down. Twice already and no luck. Maybe it's in the back of the engine bay. I will go on the 3rd hunt this weekend. Thanks for your help.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Thanks CJ. I will take a look at the E cable and assembly. Also the driveshaft again. And the exhaust. Weekend job.

I just wonder if there is a hidden or partially buried panel somewhere that is loose and getting excited with movement of air. Its almost like when you hang one of those college flags out your window and let it flap in the moving air. Makes noise w/o hitting anything.

It has a slightly different sound, as its coming up from under the car/dash/console area. More muffled and clicky but repetitive. I don't believe its inside the dash but outside the car somewhere. It's soft/light at 25mph and picks up from there with vehicle speed. You would think it would be very obvious looking around under the car. Something hanging down. Twice already and no luck. Maybe it's in the back of the engine bay. I will go on the 3rd hunt this weekend. Thanks for your help.

On the car, under each door - the rocker panels are secured to the underside by plastic push pins. Make sure every one of those push pins is pressed in as far as they can go, so they are securing those panels. There were posts on here a while back about those panels being loose and making noise while driving.

Also, check front and rear inner wheel well liners. There’s plastic securing heads on studs that hold the liners to the underbody. Turn clockwise to tighten them.

The only other thing I can think of would be if your S550 has the front belly pan, make sure all fasteners are tight. Also look through lower front grille and make sure there’s no debris, leaves or parts hanging down that could be making the noise at speed.

 

[67Fast_V]

On the car, under each door - the rocker panels are secured to the underside by plastic push pins. Make sure every one of those push pins is pressed in as far as they can go, so they are securing those panels. There were posts on here a while back about those panels being loose and making noise while driving.

Also, check front and rear inner wheel well liners. There’s plastic securing heads on studs that hold the liners to the underbody. Turn clockwise to tighten them.

The only other thing I can think of would be if your S550 has the front belly pan, make sure all fasteners are tight. Also look through lower front grille and make sure there’s no debris, leaves or parts hanging down that could be making the noise at speed.

Good tips, CJ, thank-you. You offered up so much I had to stop and write them down. Yes, mine has a belly pan. I removed it a week ago to drain coolant out when I replaced the thermostat. All the fasteners were somewhat loose upon removal but they are tight now. Note that I had the noise before I removed the belly pan and of course still have it.

I'm thinking that at some point if I can't see/find anything obvious, I do all your suggested checks, and I still have the issue, that I will remove the belly pan and go for a drive. See if it sounds different. Maybe that will give me some ideas.

Just 1 other quick thought, I still wonder if there is a mechanical issue. You know dealers. They are people too. Not always right. Before I brought it into the dealer, I thought it was either the driveshaft bearing, the right front wheel speed sensor, the right front wheel bearing, or inside the transmission. At this point, I don't think its in the transmission. I will let you know what I find in a few days. Thanks again for the help. Cheers

 

[67Fast_V]

On the car, under each door - the rocker panels are secured to the underside by plastic push pins. Make sure every one of those push pins is pressed in as far as they can go, so they are securing those panels. There were posts on here a while back about those panels being loose and making noise while driving.

Also, check front and rear inner wheel well liners. There’s plastic securing heads on studs that hold the liners to the underbody. Turn clockwise to tighten them.

The only other thing I can think of would be if your S550 has the front belly pan, make sure all fasteners are tight. Also look through lower front grille and make sure there’s no debris, leaves or parts hanging down that could be making the noise at speed.

Well CJ, I finally found the issue. Darn label attached to the front driveshaft towards the aft end upstream of the bearing. See photo. Really surprised I missed this after my 2nd check prior to the dealer visit. But it's dark inside the tunnel and with the resonator in the way, I just missed it.

Notice in the pic that it beat up the insulation, but not bad. Minor. Head scratch why Ford would wrap a label around the shaft vs. a small 1" x 2" paper sticker like 95% of their other parts.

Let's see, I wonder if the glued on label right above a 700F component would soften and come loose??? And let's see, I wonder if there is any centrifugal load on something glued to a shaft that rotates at 6700 rpm (155 mph in 7th gear 1:1). And if the label came loose, I wonder if it would make a noise and doing any damage?? Mind boggling to me.

Thanks CJ and other for the tips. Nice and quiet now.

Just have 1 other "small" problem, 250F CHT after 3 laps on the track. Pure stock '20 PP1 A10. Another head scratcher. Don't have a cause (or solution) at this point. PP1 radiator is decent size. T-stat replaced with 170F. Ice cold running around town. On the track, terrible. Forget it, 3 laps and I'm done.

 

[luc]

Well CJ, I finally found the issue. Darn label attached to the front driveshaft towards the aft end upstream of the bearing. See photo. Really surprised I missed this after my 2nd check prior to the dealer visit. But it's dark inside the tunnel and with the resonator in the way, I just missed it.

Notice in the pic that it beat up the insulation, but not bad. Minor. Head scratch why Ford would wrap a label around the shaft vs. a small 1" x 2" paper sticker like 95% of their other parts.

Let's see, I wonder if the glued on label right above a 700F component would soften and come loose??? And let's see, I wonder if there is any centrifugal load on something glued to a shaft that rotates at 6700 rpm (155 mph in 7th gear 1:1). And if the label came loose, I wonder if it would make a noise and doing any damage?? Mind boggling to me.

Thanks CJ and other for the tips. Nice and quiet now.

Just have 1 other "small" problem, 250F CHT after 3 laps on the track. Pure stock '20 PP1 A10. Another head scratcher. Don't have a cause (or solution) at this point. PP1 radiator is decent size. T-stat replaced with 170F. Ice cold running around town. On the track, terrible. Forget it, 3 laps and I'm done.

A thermostat only control the minimum coolant temperature, not the maximum
What control the maximum is the system BTU capacity
170 is way to low of a rating and serve no purpose except increased engine wear
An a/c should be ice cold, not an engine

 

[67Fast_V]

A thermostat only control the minimum coolant temperature, not the maximum
What control the maximum is the system BTU capacity
170 is way to low of a rating and serve no purpose except increased engine wear
An a/c should be ice cold, not an engine

The "ice cold" was just a figure of speech (compare to 250F, everything is cold . Engine runs 182 - 198F CHT around town. Normally around 185F when I'm cruising, so not too cold. The main reason for the 170F t-stat was because the 180F OEM was defective after 1000 miles on the car. The bypass circuit was locked up in the fully open position (plunger was fully depressed) and hence wide open to bypass a lot of coolant flow from going to the radiator. But as mentioned, my last track event had the replaced T-stat and hence is not likely the issue unless of course the 170F is defective ... which is on the list to double confirm. Cheers.

 

[Mizzle51]

I'm just here to say I laughed at "Bazaar" and thought you had an open air market in your during a track day.

Anyway, didn't read the thread so "Sorry that happened, dude and hope they fix it" or "Glad that's sorted and you're back out there".

 

[fmc_smt]

As "Bazaar" as it sounds , a 170 thermostat will run warmer then a 195 . Reason is the 170 thermostat will open sooner , with this happening the coolant doese not stay in the heat exchanger long enough . The purpose of a thermostat is to slow coolant down so it can have time to make the heat transfer in the heat exchanger . So you want the coolant to not move so fast threw the heat exchanger that it can not transfer heat . Heat exchanger = radiator . Remove a thermostat and see what happens. Run cold a shit for a bit and then hot as hell once Temps come up .

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