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Timing components to replace when doing a whipple?

CarTramrod

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I have a whipple stage 2 on ordered and am trying to gather parts to do at the same time. I currently have gt350 timing chains, boss 302 tensioner kit(not sure everything it came with), boundry opg's, boundry crank sprocket, crank support, and a new oil pump from Ford. What all from the boss 302 tensioner kit should I use? Should I buy the mmr secondary guide bracket? Should I buy new secondary guides?
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The MMR "Flip bracket" is worthwhile, I used in on my cammed build. I added the lightweight phaser plates (intake only I think). I did MMR secondary chains.
 

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I have a whipple stage 2 on ordered and am trying to gather parts to do at the same time. I currently have gt350 timing chains, boss 302 tensioner kit(not sure everything it came with), boundry opg's, boundry crank sprocket, crank support, and a new oil pump from Ford. What all from the boss 302 tensioner kit should I use? Should I buy the mmr secondary guide bracket? Should I buy new secondary guides?
Since I was removing the timing cover, I decided just to do it all. MMR Hurricane High volume pump assembly, Boss 302 chain tensioners, MMR secondary HD chains, MMR secondary chain guides, plate, MMR Billet timing chain guides (someone I think had issues with the guides teflon strips coming off) MMR CS. Now is all of this even needed on a street whiple setup? Some say no. To me it was piece of mind. Good luck
 
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CarTramrod

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Since I was removing the timing cover, I decided just to do it all. MMR Hurricane High volume pump assembly, Boss 302 chain tensioners, MMR secondary HD chains, MMR secondary chain guides, plate, MMR Billet timing chain guides (someone I think had issues with the guides teflon strips coming off) MMR CS. Now is all of this even needed on a street whiple setup? Some say no. To me it was piece of mind. Good luck
I would love to do all of those extras but don't think that is the hill I want to die on with my wife. Plus I'm not going crazy on this build, just gonna be a fun street car max 850ish horsepower. I did think that replacing the tensioners and chains were worth while since I am going to be in there but man all of the other stuff seemed too extra for me unless it was absolutely necessary.
 

DougS550

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I would love to do all of those extras but don't think that is the hill I want to die on with my wife. Plus I'm not going crazy on this build, just gonna be a fun street car max 850ish horsepower. I did think that replacing the tensioners and chains were worth while since I am going to be in there but man all of the other stuff seemed too extra for me unless it was absolutely necessary.
Their are quite a few owners at that HP which kept
I would love to do all of those extras but don't think that is the hill I want to die on with my wife. Plus I'm not going crazy on this build, just gonna be a fun street car max 850ish horsepower. I did think that replacing the tensioners and chains were worth while since I am going to be in there but man all of the other stuff seemed too extra for me unless it was absolutely necessary.
I am sure you will be fine. I have seen post from members who are pushing 1000hp and never changed or upgraded their CS OPGs. And yes, shit can add up so it a good thing to stay on budget. Happy Wife, Happy Life. No truer workers to live by. Have Fun
 

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CarTramrod

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The MMR "Flip bracket" is worthwhile, I used in on my cammed build. I added the lightweight phaser plates (intake only I think). I did MMR secondary chains.
What exactly does it do?
 
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CarTramrod

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DougS550

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Do you have any pics of them installed?
Do you have any pics of them installed?
Realistically, unless your planning to turn high RPM and HP I don't think it would be necessary but; I did it because it was cheap insurance and I didnt want to go back in to upgrade if my needs demanded it.


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CarTramrod

CarTramrod

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Realistically, unless your planning to turn high RPM and HP I don't think it would be necessary but; I did it because it was cheap insurance and I didnt want to go back in to upgrade if my needs demanded it.


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Did you replace the secondary chains as well? I also read that the cam sprocket bolts are one time use.
 

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Did you replace the secondary chains as well? I also read that the cam sprocket bolts are one time use.
The cam phaser bolts are one time stretch bolts. And yes, the secondary chains I guess are a weak spot IAW MMR and so I replaced them with HD Secondary chains.
 

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I just had to re-do my chains and tensioners. The car SHOULD be finished today. I had both stock (new when doing the build) tensioners fail at just over 17k miles on the build. I had the FRPP kit. We just bought the same kit but upgraded to the ratcheting Boss 302 tensioners, which is what I SHOULD have done the first time, but it was getting to be a budget issue with me as well, when putting together a built short block, ported heads and all the associated money with that, combined with the Whipple Stage 2 purchase, it was getting a bit ridiculous at that point.

To be clear, I had a low oil pressure issue (most likely due to the PBH metal oil pan installation) which is heavily implicated in the tensioner failure, not a quality of the timing parts issue though.
 

DougS550

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I just had to re-do my chains and tensioners. The car SHOULD be finished today. I had both stock (new when doing the build) tensioners fail at just over 17k miles on the build. I had the FRPP kit. We just bought the same kit but upgraded to the ratcheting Boss 302 tensioners, which is what I SHOULD have done the first time, but it was getting to be a budget issue with me as well, when putting together a built short block, ported heads and all the associated money with that, combined with the Whipple Stage 2 purchase, it was getting a bit ridiculous at that point.

To be clear, I had a low oil pressure issue (most likely due to the PBH metal oil pan installation) which is heavily implicated in the tensioner failure, not a quality of the timing parts issue though.
Sorry to hear that. Trying to control cost and stay within a budget can bite you in the ass some times, been done that. For me, I didn't want Oil Fed tensioners on a high HP 7800 rpm engine. So was the oil pick up tube not seated correctly reducing oil pressure which was the result of your failure?
 

HKusp

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Sorry to hear that. Trying to control cost and stay within a budget can bite you in the ass some times, been done that. For me, I didn't want Oil Fed tensioners on a high HP 7800 rpm engine. So was the oil pick up tube not seated correctly reducing oil pressure which was the result of your failure?
So that PBH pan set-up is designed to fit with the stock main hardware. I had ARP hardware and the pick-up tube just didn't seem to seat correctly. I think the geometry was off and it was causing the low pressure issue by not allowing the pick-up tube to but up to the shoulder that it welded onto the tube and allowed for a break in suction from the pump gerars. The shop it's at now, has a really good tech that is very methodical. He put it through a bunch of tests ran continuity on the entire wiring harness one by one, because low oil pressure was only 1 of many issues it was having. There were a bunch of timing codes as well. It was consistently low according to the published data, especially at idle and high idle.

Oil activated VVT is great when you have oil pressure, not so much, when you don't. Lesson learned. The one tensioner that failed completely you can compress by hand, easily, the other you can begin to compress it about a cm by hand easily, then it gets harder. When they are new, there's no way you can do them by hand, it takes a vise. I get the car back later today, so fingers crossed, it's all worked out.
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