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Time for pads, would you do rotors too?

MikeR397

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16K on my 2017, never tracked, brakes starting to squeal at low speed stops. Time for new pads?
Doubting with road miles but check if you are on wear bars which squeal constantly at low speeds, not just braking as they scrape the rotor while it turns past.
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MikeR397

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Those look perfectly fine. You should see my rotors, even after cooled, they're still discolored with that beautiful naughty purple hue. I'm extremely hard on the middle pedal though. Btw, NEVER turn your rotors on a high performance vehicle. If you're to the point of where they need to be turned, replace them. Any reason why yo're going with the Powerstop pads and not the stockers? Just curious because if you get stock pads again, your bed in process will be very simply replace pads, some HARD stops to transfer material, and go. Since the pads are the same.
why is this? I have heard people say it but If you are above min spec thickness why not turn if need be instead of trashing? New is 36mm, I turned after my first set of pads and 5 track days and was at 35.6mm after. Have done 4 sets of pads since without turning again and had no issues, save the cracks starting to get pretty big.

I get more thickness is always better, but these are massive and above min spec is above min spec.

also, op said no tracking so it’s crazy to skip turning for road use where the rotors see 1/1000th the average heat and abuse.
 

rick81721

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Normal. Go off by pad and rotor thickness, not noise. If you want, try doing some HARD stops to see if you can bed in a little better but 16,000 miles later probably won't do much. These are noisy brakes by nature. I bedded in my brakes on autocross when I took delivery and I beat them like they owed me money. I've never had excessive noise until recently, at about 18,000 miles. I checked my pad life, I have maybe another track day and a few thousand miles left on them.
Thanks, seems to have just started the last two weeks but haven't done any hard braking in awhile. Will slam them today a few times
 

nastang87xx

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why is this? I have heard people say it but If you are above min spec thickness why not turn if need be instead of trashing? New is 36mm, I turned after my first set of pads and 5 track days and was at 35.6mm after. Have done 4 sets of pads since without turning again and had no issues, save the cracks starting to get pretty big.

I get more thickness is always better, but these are massive and above min spec is above min spec.

I've had my rotors turned twice on my last Mustang with performance brakes. Both times it made it worse. Ended up replacing everything. It was such a pain.

EDIT: Actually now thinking about it, is there even a machine out there that would be able to accommodate such large rotors in the first place? Also wondering if the rotor hat would cause complications with the machine as well, especially the rears since the actual stopping surface itself is quite small and mainly taken up by the hat itself.
 
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Those look perfectly fine. You should see my rotors, even after cooled, they're still discolored with that beautiful naughty purple hue. I'm extremely hard on the middle pedal though. Btw, NEVER turn your rotors on a high performance vehicle. If you're to the point of where they need to be turned, replace them. Any reason why yo're going with the Powerstop pads and not the stockers? Just curious because if you get stock pads again, your bed in process will be very simply replace pads, some HARD stops to transfer material, and go. Since the pads are the same.
Read good things about power stops I guess. I will have Kelly Moss racing in Madison replace the stuff. That place is epic. Really happy to hear about the rotors, did not want to put another 500 into it as I just got the thing a week ago lol.
 

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MikeR397

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Stick with stock pads for now OP. They are great and will be a similar swap/bed.


bastang, the only issue turning these rotors is a ship that doesn’t care about the holes causing accelerated wear to their machine. I have turned mine, worked perfect as I mention. Someone must have not done it right, it’s not rocket science, machine cuts until they are smooth, so long as it doesn’t have to cut below min thickness spec, it’s all good
 

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Just to add to @nastang87xx ’s info, if you switch pad material, you’d want to lightly sand the rotors to remove old pad material. Expect to go through the bedding process again (google if you don’t know). No go on the turning..
 
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Just to add to @nastang87xx ’s info, if you switch pad material, you’d want to lightly sand the rotors to remove old pad material. Expect to go through the bedding process again (google if you don’t know). No go on the turning..
10-4 I will tell the shop to sand them a bit.
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