The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[GT_Roadcourse_Newb]

A common thing is to remove the rear hood seal to allow more air to escape there...

Buddy did it on his TTRS and BRZ with good results.

Can you please post a pic showing the location? Thanks much!

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[GT_Roadcourse_Newb]

I happen to be able to test out the following:

- High performace Exhaust wrap around the Differential
- High performace Exhaust wrap under the car

Then, the above in concert with:

- RTR high flow grill upper/lower
- Roush Heat Extractors (hood)

*edit:
- RTR Diffuser
/edit*

Then, later (maybe much later)

-Powder coated Headers with Jet Coating (possibly)
-High performace Exhaust wrap around the entire exhaust system(?!)

:ford:

 

[GT_Roadcourse_Newb]

Yea it works so well the hood wants to rip open at 100mph. I believe you talked to people with open grills and it only makes it worse.

Hood isnt going anywhere though... right?

 

[BTM]

So am I understanding correctly that the only way to reliably expel increased volumes of air entering underhood from high-flow grill, is to go with the high buck Tiger Racing vented hood, or equivalent? i.e. none of the available heat extractor replacements for the stock hood actually flow any more air?

But also sounds like no one is really worried about high underhood temps, just heat management on the rear diff and front brakes?

Have any of you other track rats been running a lower-temp thermostat? Any difference seen?

 

[stoli]

So am I understanding correctly that the only way to reliably expel increased volumes of air entering underhood from high-flow grill, is to go with the high buck Tiger Racing vented hood, or equivalent? i.e. none of the available heat extractor replacements for the stock hood actually flow any more air?

But also sounds like no one is really worried about high underhood temps, just heat management on the rear diff and front brakes?

Have any of you other track rats been running a lower-temp thermostat? Any difference seen?

I have the 170 low temp thermostat and updated tune for the fans coming on at lower temps. Head and coolant temps are significantly lower than stock; head temps stay around 200 or less on the track when in clean air.

Don't try the 160 thermostat; a lot of people have had issues with that one.

 

[BTM]

I have the 170 low temp thermostat and updated tune for the fans coming on at lower temps. Head and coolant temps are significantly lower than stock; head temps stay around 200 or less on the track when in clean air.

Don't try the 160 thermostat; a lot of people have had issues with that one.

Thanks, John, very helpful. I think I'm going to order the 170 t-stat.

I also have a Lund tune, was the off-the-shelf 91 octane one with JLT intake, emailed to me Dec 2015, and uploaded with SCT X4. Do you know how I could tell if this version already has cooling fan trigger at lower temps? Or do I have to email the tune back to Lund and ask them?

 

[stoli]

Thanks, John, very helpful. I think I'm going to order the 170 t-stat.

I also have a Lund tune, was the off-the-shelf 91 octane one with JLT intake, emailed to me Dec 2015, and uploaded with SCT X4. Do you know how I could tell if this version already has cooling fan trigger at lower temps? Or do I have to email the tune back to Lund and ask them?

Lund has said their tunes all include the lower fan setting, but you can always open a support ticket to be certain.

 

[Impulsed7]

lower temp thermostat and cooling fan triggers really have no effect at track speeds and temps. Thermostat would have already been open, and fans are really only good for the pits and parked.

 

[Brent Dalton]

It does not increase cooling capacity, but keeping the coolant at a lower temperature does start you at a lower point and can increase the time you have on track before the temperature gets dangerous. After running Road Atlanta for 3 days this weekend and changing to a 170 thermostat, 100% water w/ water wetter, and fans coming on early... I'm comfortable with the stock pp system. I drove all night last night back here to Kansas and went straight into work so I have not had much time to put anything together, but the bottom line is my coolant temps were under control, which in turn helped somewhat with the oil temps. I'll be at Hallett next weekend and will see if I have the same results. Also of note, there was a 20 degree deltaT between engine coolant temp and cylinder head coolant temp.

 

[apex15stangPP]

I bought the Scott Drake vents... hoping they will give some relief? Cut away some extra metal hoping it may improve flow? I need some smoke and wind like the video to see if it worked...LOL

 

[Brent Dalton]

Tie some string to them and drive around. It will show you if they work.

 

[stoli]

Tie some string to them and drive around. It will show you if they work.

Not really; the string would be moving but it's going to be tough to tell if it's air from under the hood over over the hood.

 

[Brent Dalton]

Incorrect. If air is being pushed out, it will be easy to tell. Here is a quick example for you:

 

[apex15stangPP]

Yes I could tie them from below, and if they force their way out or up I would be able to tell. Sounds like a 6 pack project.

Also wonder about removing the hood seal and propping the hood Tokyo stytle...LOL

 

[stoli]

Incorrect. If air is being pushed out, it will be easy to tell. Here is a quick example for you:

Cool - I didn't think there'd be enough air from below to do that.

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