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wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
Not even a hug!
wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
You can replace the toe link-to-knuckle BUSHING in the knuckle (the assembly that the wheel ultimately bolts on to) with the FRPP bearing which is the same exact bearing that is already in the toe link arm itself that bolts to the inner mounting point on the subframe. Or, you can replace the entire toe link arm with the Steeda or BMR unit and put the FRPP bearing in the knuckle (or just leave the stock bushing there if you want and do the FRPP bearing there later.
Technically you can take out the bearing from the stock toe link and put it in the knuckle, again replacing the bushing already there, but I am personally not a fan of re-using press-fit bearings... but it has been done to save some $$.
When you have the FRPP bearing installed and use the stock toe link, it is very easy to make it clunk (as noted in my video).
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wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
Only if you change the bushing in the knuckle to a bearing would I get aftermarket toe arms, personally. I really don't see the point of them otherwise unless you want to (1) improve toe adjustability (not vital for any good alignment shop) or (2) get a quality Steeda bearing instead of the floppy FRPP bearing. You probably aren't getting clunking from the inner toe arm bearing if you still have the bushing in the knuckle. That bushing probably doesn't allow the toe arm to rotate enough to get to where it clunks.
Bluemustang
Well-Known Member
I am starting to get the clunk back again too. Right rear passenger side. My guess is something to do with the toe rod. I'm not sure it is fixable cuz I've been down this road before. Frankly it is not bad so right now I don't plan on doing anything about t.
wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
It's gonna clunk... I've accepted it. Mine clunked driving home from the dealer.
Bluemustang
Well-Known Member
I am beginning the slow stage of acceptance wildcat. As my dad used to say the bearings will continue until morale improves haha. But I think you may be right.
jbailer
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure what kind of clunking you guys have but I'm not having any trouble like that. The only clunk I've ever had was transmission driveshaft related.
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Nerass
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #26
I wish somebody was local ( north east ) I might be crazy or I might not know what i'm really describing.
would I physically be able to tell if the rubber bushing on the bottom of the knuckle is the culprit? or should I just replace for the sake of replacing...
half tempted to drop it off at the dealer but I don't want it to turn into a fiasco because some tech gets annoyed and decides to "void" the whole back half of my car lol
would I physically be able to tell if the rubber bushing on the bottom of the knuckle is the culprit? or should I just replace for the sake of replacing...
half tempted to drop it off at the dealer but I don't want it to turn into a fiasco because some tech gets annoyed and decides to "void" the whole back half of my car lol
wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
Bad bushings have cracks and excessive movement. You can tell by unbolting it, checking the bushing at the knuckle with a visual inspection. Torque back to 120.
wildcatgoal
@sirboom_photography
Uh... the knuckle-to-toe bushing is not a "Ford Performance" part. What are they smoking?
jbailer
Well-Known Member
This concept people have off warranties being "voided" is incorrect that is proliferated from misunderstanding. Ford will never void your warranty, and can't, you paid for it with the purchase of the vehicle.
They can refuse to do work under the warranty if you modify the vehicle and the modification could be the issue like in this case. Realistically though, the way it should work is they look a the problem, diagnose it and tell you what the problem is. If they find the problem is due to a modification you made, it's only right that they shouldn't warrant it and you might have to pay for the diagnosis and repair. But even though you have modifications they might find it's something else and still cover it under warranty.
The tricky part is the grey area in between. I can't think of a good example but lets say a bushing wore out and part is knocking and it isn't a part that you modified. They could say it is because of some other part that you changed that put additional stress on that part to cause it to wear out early.
If you don't know how to identify the problem, you could take it to an independent garage and have them diagnose the problem. You would expect to pay them for their time to figure it out and then again to fix it. It's the same thing with the dealer except if they find out it was a defect in their original materials they wouldn't charge for the diagnosis or repair if still within the warranty period.
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