Front end suspension clunking

[Caddiso1]

Our 2016 Mustang has a nasty front end clunk at lower speeds and small bumps. I believe its the sway bar end link.

Clunking video.
Sway bar end link video.

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[86pagt]

I changed my sway bar end links and it didn’t solve the problem…. The tension links fixed the issue… when I removed the left side which is where the noise was coming from the ball joint was loose and flipped around. Passenger side nice and tight. I replaced both with the Steeda tension links.

 

[Caddiso1]

I changed my sway bar end links and it didn’t solve the problem…. The tension links fixed the issue… when I removed the left side which is where the noise was coming from the ball joint was loose and flipped around. Passenger side nice and tight. I replaced both with the Steeda tension links.

Lovely, lol. I hope it’s just the sway bar end link, when I pulled on and visually inspected everything else, there was no play.

 

[Chava0191]

Our 2016 Mustang has a nasty front end clunk at lower speeds and small bumps. I believe its the sway bar end link.

Clunking video.
Sway bar end link video.

My 15' GT with Fortune Auto coilovers clunks too and I pin pointed the issue to the end links suppled by Fortune Auto. Here's how i found out:

1)I inspected everything and looked for play

2)The only thing that looked odd was the grease coming out of the rubber boot

3)I ordered a new pair of end links from Fortune Auto and the clunk went away.

The only issue now is that the clunking noise came again after a couple hundred miles. So i ordered some adjustable end links from Steeda but even at the shortest length, theyre too long to fit between the strut and the sway bar. At this point idont know what end links to buy anymore.

 

[mustang_puppy]

My 15' GT with Fortune Auto coilovers clunks too and I pin pointed the issue to the end links suppled by Fortune Auto. Here's how i found out:

1)I inspected everything and looked for play

2)The only thing that looked odd was the grease coming out of the rubber boot

3)I ordered a new pair of end links from Fortune Auto and the clunk went away.

The only issue now is that the clunking noise came again after a couple hundred miles. So i ordered some adjustable end links from Steeda but even at the shortest length, theyre too long to fit between the strut and the sway bar. At this point idont know what end links to buy anymore.

I had a front end clunk after having replaced the struts, springs and adding caster plates. Turns out it was a loose nut from the driver's side sway bar end link (my fault). Tightened it up and no more clunk. Is it possible all the clunking is is a loose nut? All you'd need is to add thread lock and retorque. My end links are these:

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1499&superpro=0

which I installed about a year ago. They didn't come with instructions and I don't know if they come with pre-greased ball joints from the factory. As a precaution I added grease to each link and they've been noise free. Maybe you'll have good luck with these.

 

[Kenbike]

My 2015 has a clunk and a shop feels it is the strut rod bearings. Replaced my front struts with Steeda pro adjustable a few years ago. This shop feels the Ford strut rod bearings and adjustable camber plates are the best way correct and avoid the problem.
how hard are these to do your self?

 

[GTP]

I just installed J&M camber plates.

Like everything else, it's not that hard once you've done it before, haha.

I saw the Mother of all Spring Compressors bolted to the wall of a tire shop today. If you could get use of that for cheap, I'd recommend it over borrowing the tool from the auto parts store.

 

[Flies624]

I have had a knocking sound coming from the front passenger side under my 2019 GT for a few months now and made a video in case others have the same noise. 24k miles. It happens at low speeds and over bumps at low speeds. I can generate it by rocking the car laterally when parked as in this video. I have spent time on these threads and have an appointment with Ford on Monday but figured I would post a video in case others have the exact same sound.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

I have had a knocking sound coming from the front passenger side under my 2019 GT for a few months now and made a video in case others have the same noise. 24k miles. It happens at low speeds and over bumps at low speeds. I can generate it by rocking the car laterally when parked as in this video. I have spent time on these threads and have an appointment with Ford on Monday but figured I would post a video in case others have the exact same sound.

Check your sway bar end-links for a loose nut. The link attachment to the bar typically loosens first (as opposed to the connection at the strut); medium strength loctite will do the trick.

To add — the nuts may not even appear loose, but they don’t need to be much out of torque spec to make a ton of noise.

 

[Flies624]

Check your sway bar end-links for a loose nut. The link attachment to the bar typically loosens first (as opposed to the connection at the strut); medium strength loctite will do the trick.

To add — the nuts may not even appear loose, but they don’t need to be much out of torque spec to make a ton of noise.

Thanks for this. I aim to get a look at it this weekend. Will update once I make progress.

 

[jmargo]

My 2020 with the performance pack just started clunking from the drivers side when I am at full left lock. I can feel it pop in the steering wheel when I back up. I have just over 3K miles but am almost afraid to take it to the dealer if parts are not available and they won't give the car back. Anything special in the PP suspension to look for ?

 

[Flies624]

Thanks for this. I aim to get a look at it this weekend. Will update once I make progress.

Ford replaced my sway bar end link for free under manufacturer's warranty and the problem is solved. I hope this helps anyone else with the same issue.

 

[TeeLew]

I had a front end clunk after having replaced the struts, springs and adding caster plates. Turns out it was a loose nut from the driver's side sway bar end link (my fault). Tightened it up and no more clunk. Is it possible all the clunking is is a loose nut? All you'd need is to add thread lock and retorque.

This is a really common one. If you don't get the ball-joints for the ARB drop link centered, then normal suspension & steering motion can loosen up those nuts easily. Thread lock helps, but make sure they're centered with the steering to allow for max articulation, too.

 

[baazooka]

I wanted to provide an update as this post ultimately helped out.

TL-DR it for me it was the 21mm nut and 10mm post at the top of the strut tower. Tightening this completely resolved the clunking sound. You need either a special strut tower socket, offset wrench, or do what I did and use an angle grinder to cut a window in a 21mm socket and use a 10mm wrench..

One dealer thought it the shock and was going to charge me $500 to replace it. This would have fixed it by virtue of totally replacing the nut.... and the shock. Another dealer was convinced it was brake pads... which it also wasn't

Feel free to contact me if you need assistance. This post saved me a lot of money.

P.S. The reason the nut loosened up is unknown. I have a sneaking suspicion parts are either prone to stretching or the threadlocker partially failed.

Is there any benefit to hitting the exact torque on the top nut? we rigged up a similar 21mm/10mm setup with vice grips on the 21mm and a smaller extension passing through the 21mm socket, we just tightened by hand until the clunk was gone but never found a way to get a torque wrench on.

Thanks!

 

[GTP]

TLDR:
With the strut out of the car, tighten the 21mm nut to snug while holding the shaft still with the 10mm wrench. Then torque to final value after the strut is back on the car (10mm wrench no longer needed).

I found that I could not reach target torque with the shock out of the car, because the 10mm just strips the hex of the shaft.

But once the shock was installed in the car, I could use a torque wrench to the target value. And the 10mm wrench is no longer needed at this stage.

Even as an engineer I still don't understand why the shaft doesn't still rotate in the shock body to prevent reaching full torque value.
But this technique worked for me.

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